Robo's

Thats funny, i noticed instantly running quite high boost (20psi) with this new fuel, that my knock has come down quite alot. I will do some more testing but on high boost with 98 fuel, i used to see knock in the 90's, so far ive seen this drop to 60. Save me taking some timing out of her.

.And you still on your original motor?

Id say you need to get some timing into it and adj your AFR's. I had a 2530 in my R33 and the midrange and response was very impressive, much better than the standard turbo. Running a RB20, im still sure this turbo would give you some nice midrange for drifting

Id say your AFR's would be all too rich on high boost. With hi boost you should pick up a shit load of midrange

Put 40 litres in today and after a while i done some testing. My knock has reduced at least 20/30% which is great as a safety feature. Seems to be going quite strong as per usual but if it picked up a few kw's it would be hard to pick, but i will definately will be using it more for the reduced knock

Occassionally you do get a few odd tickets coming out, but generally there pretty correct!!!

I was getting 19psi very early and it would hold it to 5500rpm and then it would fall away pretty sharply, say 13psi over 6000rpm. Now ive got a 2535, i get 20psi in the middle, a little later and it holds 18psi to 6500rpm. Im now no longer using the HKS actuator but an electriconic controller. Maybe with the short arm it doesnt open enough high in the rev range, just a thought

It tappered off, probably due to the fact the turbo was running out of breathe.

Well thats showing you actually got some pretty good traction and not much top end, similiar to a GTR time

.I wanna see some good mph, mph never lies

Yes shorten the length of it to increase boost. I had no problems holding upto 19psi on my HKS

What kind of load are you seeing at full throttle?

Im sure it is quick, so your saying boosting Bass's car up, is not going to achieve much. Coz 250rwkw at 14psi is certainly high and thats why i had to feel silvas 244rwkw coz i didnt really beleive it at that psi. I know dynos get regularly serviced but my mate has one and i was spewing when he told me that my old readings where 20 rwkw high as the barometric pressure were reading incorrect. And he showed me how air intakes readings can increase readings as well. So now, i tend to look at the data on the bottom of dyno graphs.

Private road and rolling runs, not much any driver can't do except change one gear (2nd to 3rd). No offence, but mine felt punchier too and as expected it should running closer to 20psi against 14psi.

I had a little run with Silvas 244Rwkw (14psi) with my old 2530 setup and basically it wasnt as close as what it should have been

Id say Race Paces dyno is very very generous. 250rwkw at 14psi when its not even in the turbos effeceint range sounds a little too high. Considering you can pump another 5psi and easily get another 20-30rwkw. i went from 17-20psi and i picked up 13rwkw and at least 30rwkw in the middle with a 2535. Silva33 got 244rwkw on 14psi with a 2535 on the same dyno. Put another 5psi in that we are looking at 270rwkw, i just cant see that from a 2535. Considering i only am getting 231rwkw at 19psi from a 2535 from a dyno dynamics dyno in shootout mode. It may read low but thats all i got. Tuning for max power isnt too hard, get the A/F ratios in the high 11's and some good timing in her. Watch the knock, if its too high bring out some timing, its not too hard. Unless you are running no timing, your still going to produce some good numbers. Good tuning is in the light/middle throttle which takes alot of time and effort. Unfortunately those dyno sheets dont show the setup of how the dyno was run. Dynos can quite easily be enhanced.

Not necessarily true. I know with experience LS1's they can gain several kw's with bigger maf to TB pipes as the stockies become restrictive. Its generally in the bends that upsets the flow but i have never seen much info with these RB25's

Can i race the winner, ive got a 2535 and only pushed 231rwkw.

I always get 40+ on start up, annoys me as i have to reset it when i drive off

Does anyone know when the stock R33 AFM to turbo rubber pipe become a restriction? Im pushing mid 230rkw's and it doesnt seem to be sucking closed, but maybe its becoming a restriction. Ive got a HKS 2535

What i have noticed if you bring the duty cycle up a little you get slight increase in boost and when you lower duty it reduces boost a little. Maybe this is boost spike, im not to sure.

It is showing you have 4 boost settings available. Re .6 bar, .8, .9, 1.1 bar. From your hand controller you should see what setting it is on. Then its as simple as moving the marker to the next boost setting. The number 52,53 etc relates to delaying boost. Like 40 would be holding boost back until later in the rev range and the higher number say 55 would bring boost in earlier.

How did you blow it?

Shouldnt go up and down like that, it should be progressively. Check your actuator lines , sounds like you have a leak

Dynos are a good tuning tool only. Its hard to compare dynos and dynos Examples. 1) Barometer readings and temp readings give corrections readings. All increase or decrease your rwkw. Put in a low barometer reading and your rwkw goes up. My dyno operator barometer was way out, like 980 on the barometer. My figures where always high, 207/215 rwkw (stock turbo) 220rwkw (2530. no PFC). 2 ) Ran my car on dyno, only 225rwkw when i ran 12.55@113mph. Car was very very strong as backed up by 1/4 times. Ran a guy with a 244rwkw from a well known Skyline shop, and it wasnt even close on a rolling run. We had about 4 rolling runs and even if he jumped me i could still peg him back and pass. 3) Dynoed with 2535 last night and only pushed 231rwkw (same as dyno no.1 but with fixed barometer, the operator reckons its costed 20rwkw) but car feels stronger than ever. So my point is, judge by going in with figure A and coming out with B, you should judge your figures by this and not by other dynos. Really the best judge of power is 1/4.