Robo's

How many you got going? Doesnt seem to be much interest from the public forum anyway. I just thought everyone would be dynoing to go.

Funny you say this. I spoke to another mate who has a dyno dynamics dyno, and he said you know how my dyno reads high, i said yeah, the barometer was out. He said everytime they checked the dyno for accurateness, they never checked the air temp. So everytime he ran the dyno it corrected itself to read in the snow, hence reading high numbers. Weird but true.

KMart Dyno?

So if i see 98% injector cycle now, even if i turn up the pressure i will still see 98% injector cycle but the motor will be running richer than before

Anyone else

Hmm i might try this when i get home. I remember with my last tune i was altering the first 2 voltages to read 85 + 90%. I done this as i had an eratic idle as this seemed the best fix

Ive got both 2530 and a 2535, hmm which one do i want to sell, let the bidding war begin

Standard internals and normal mods, PFC, FMIC, exhaust,

1/4 times in my signature, [email protected] with the 2530 running around 19psi. I fitted it all myself, its not too hard, Have you got the HKS neck off the turbo?

Just got a Nismo Fuel Pressure Regulator and i know most are going to say take it to a dyno, which i am, but i want to know before i get there. 1) To increase flow, i turn the screw out just like a bleed valve. 2) When i increase flow, my A/F will be filthy rich as i won't be changing the values on my PFC.

You definately won't need injectors. With my 2530 i was seeing 94% max on injector cycle. With the 2535 im allready seeing 100% so ive wound back the boost.

Light load would make a difference to throttle response. im not sure about 50 degrees though. I might try a little more down low and see how she goes

Bump

PS. It wont make good peak power, maybe just over 200-210rwkw, but its the average power, you'll make 200rwkw just over 5000rpm which feels great on the street

Well i think the 2510 would be better than a stock R33 turbo. I had the 2530 which by visual and measurements, it was only slightly bigger than stock, say 2/3 mm. Performance was substantially better though. Im sure running some pretty good boost, the 2510 would be better than a stocky. But you'll need a power FC , cooler and basic mods to get the best from it. As far as oil and water lines, cost me about $100-$150 to do it. Take your turbo into hose shop and fittings and tell them what you want, study the turbo first. Good Luck

I think i prefer to load them manually through the ignition tables

So you say running the A/F correction .64 volts upto 110%?

RPM point 8 = 3200rpm loads 3,4,5, ive got 43 degrees

The stock map reads max 43 degrees of timing at light throttle. Did you raise this to 50???

Well i dyno tuned my PFC myself with my tuner and it took a good 2/3 hours and we didnt even play with the ignition maps. By the time you fiddle with light, medium and full loads and at each 400rpm point, you would be surprised how long it takes.

If you want good midrange, i had a 2530 and if you floored it from 70k's in 3rd gear, it would pull like a train. There was no use dropping it back to 2nd from thaty speed. Currently im trying a 2535.

Yep power FC is the easiest to fit in and tune

Ive been told about this too by a few experienced dyno operators. They prefer to punch a hole before the cat and read the measures from there. I think it would give a more accurate result but still i cant complain about mine being measured from the rear.

$650 thats a bargain, just wait, someone will buy it for that price and enjoy the benefits of a better turbo than stock

Most likely, just waiting on a Reg from nengun as ive just hit 100% duty with a 2535. Then i need to tune it, so hopefully be ready in 3 weeks.