Robo's

Its quite easy to read. The horizontal scale is the rpm points and the vertical scale is the load points

I dont have the factory ones anymore but you will find they won't alter the ignition maps, just the fuel maps as they tend to run rich

I tuned my car myself on a mates dyno. It certainly a slow process. We tuned it at light throttle, zero boost then at full boost at all rpm levels monitoring this by the map trace. Increments of 400rpm made this a slow process. During this we altered A/F ratio levels. I noticed we didnt really alter the timing levels just making sure there where no funny movements on the ignition map. As load increases , timing is pulled out which should be in factory tune. A/F ratios where very rich so we picked up alot there. Overall its a great experience and now i fully understand the functions of the power fc in my car. Experiment with it, but you really need a dyno to see what A/F ratios are. It took us at least 3 hours.

Depends how your Air Fuel Ratios are. The more there out the more you will gain

I was just making over 200rwkw with the stock turbo. As soon as i upgraded the turbo, i needed a new pump as the pump couldnt cope

Oil and water lines dont bolt up.

Ive got some $180 for 6, perfect nic, out of a R34 GTR

Thats right, the head gasket isnt the problem with a standard turbo, its the ceramic wheels that dont like alot of boost. Im running 20psi with a 2530 with standard head gasket so yeah they can take boost.

Try iridiums, the melting point on iridiums is like double that of platinums.

Road tyre, slick doesnt matter, they are rubber they all like heat. Notice how bad your tyres are before they warm up and when they heat up. I notice a fair difference.

HKS actuators are all the same.

Start around 25psi and heat them up nicely. Drop them down if you are struggling for traction, but honestly i didnt find much beneficial with pressures, they just need heat.

Going by your mods, id be looking at a mid 13 and if you hook up real well (say 2.0 60') a low 13 should be on the cards. I always find the track to have a lot more traction than the street. Its the only time i can open it up in first gear, on the street it always spins. Good luck

Ben Sounds like your fuel is way too rich when you boost it up, it gets richer, sounds like you need a power fc or at least SAFC

I done this little exercise as i have splitfire coils. Gapped at 1.1mm and running 20psi, it missed. Gapped them down to .95 and it still missed. Just above .8 i gapped them at and now i have no miss. Remember im running alot more boost though.

Seems no one is interested but us few

500 k's is quite common for highway cycle, i got over that on my last trip. On light throttle, 14.7 is the optimum A/F ratio.

Try using the setting Super Intake rather than the R32 Normal Intake on the Power FC. This is what i changed to using a Z32.

Some times i get knock going upto 40 driving to the shops below 3000rpm. I also got 28 starting it up this morning, ouch I might get a bit of knock and i always monitor it, but i've never heard it ping. I used to hear it ping with the stock cooler setup , but then i had no power FC to monitor the knock.

Thats very safe, im seeing 80-90 knock and in the 90's injector cycle.

6 Coil packs suit Series 2 R33 and R34, suit GTR as well. They are out of a R34 GTR so there in pretty damn good clean knick. $180

Sorry i read it again and its internal gated

Is it external or internal wastegated?

I have the solenoid that goes to the actuator, im missing the part that reads boost pressure from the manifold

I have the solenoid that goes to the actuator, im missing the part that reads boost pressure from the manifold