Robo's

A year ago he would have got $300 but thats when FMIC where $600+, now there $300+ so you could try but i dont like your chances

With a Electronic Boost control can you alter boost pressure at different rpms. Im getting 17psi at 4500rpm and then it drops off too 12psi and peak revs. This is using a HKS actuator and no bleed valve so its not the actuator spring. So i thought with a EBC could i dial in more boost pressure at say 6000rpm. Can i do this?

Sorry mate, ive got offers for the cash i want, just waiting for someone to waive it in front of me :wassup:

Yes it would be unburnt fuel, the standard computer runs very rich once you start turning the boost up.

Bump

Bass Thanks Mate

Bass What kind of time frame mate? No real hurry, but this thread has been going nearly 4 months.

Good stuff, thats a bit tough that injectors are illegal.

I spent alot of time using the glue method, but it still didnt work, so i splurged out and bought Splitfires. The problem is, trying to find the problem coil, mine all looked very similar and it only breaks down under load, how do you test it?

Zac does a great job, ive imported off him before and highly recommend him

Wouldnt the vibration be caused thru the re-enlignment of the sub frame in the rear. You've altered the geometry of the rear therefore would have a nasty consequence being vibration. Hmmm, i'm having second thoughts now.

$260

My engine is cutting out over 18psi for a split second in the midrange at max boost so it must be the standard Ecu shutting it down of boost cut. Anything under 18psi and its fine, not cut and no misses. Standard ECU must be pulling out a heap of timing during the power runs. We need to get in there at giving RPMs and put it back in.

I dont know, are you running standard coils at the moment? If you are , then my answer would be yes.

Ok guys for the latest rundown on a dyno. I could feel holes in the power curve through seat of the pants driving in this showed up badly on the dyno. Between 5000-6000rpm the power curve dips and ive had this dip all along with every dyno run its been on with either the stock turbo or the 2530. So it means time for a power fc. It is not fuel, we tuned fuel around the mid 11's to 11.7. Peak power was 224rwkw. We could get boost to 17.8psi in the midrange and this dropped off too 10's with the boost controller. So i disconnected the boost controller and ran it straight to the actuator and then boost dropped off too 12.5psi at max revs. Mid range is still impressive recording 150rwkw at 3900rpm. So in a nut shell, the SAFC has done its best, there are too many hiccups at the moment and until we can get in there and play with the timing, this is as far as it goes. We tried even a little bit more boost but then we reached some sort of cut-off which must be boost cut or something.

Is it a bolt in for a R33 GTST? Whats needed if there is?

Well buy it from them at save yourself $9 and wait.

These are brand new unopened, still in the box. Series SF DIS 001 Suit R32 GTST, R32 & R33 GTR, and series 1 R33 GTST. If your car is missing these are the go. I have them in mine and they work sensational. No longer do you need to run 0.7 gap in your plugs to hide a poor spark from the original worn out coils. I run 0.9 gap and hi boost with not one ounce of miss. I highly recommend them if your after a performance increase. These are brand new, $650 no offers!!!

Also in the booklet it shows you how to set the knock. For memory you have to hold the engine at certain revs.

I connected mine to wire 1 of the knock sensor in the computer loom. It reads 0 as well until it warms up, then reads 2,3,9, fluctuates a little. On the odd occasion on a flat out run i have seen over 100

Wasnt SLY 33 someone selling a 2530 or something? You might be waiting a while to get one, you dont find them too often in the for sale section

Did it make any difference?

Air Fuel Controller

I ran 13psi with stock cooler and afterwards FMIC for over a year. If your not going to race it around the track this should be fine as most 95% of skylines drivers dont circuit race. This also included about 20 1/4 races. So it was driven as "most" skylines drivers would drive or probably harder. Using less boost and it was dyno proven, peak power didnt decrease a hell of alot, but the midrange torque was much more impressive with stronger boost. Also, stock coolers dont like long amounts thrashings so be careful there.

Ive had both, both are the same as far as perfomance goes, the main benefit i like with the SAFC 2 is the knock readout. I monitor knock all the time!!