Robo's

Yes, still needs a little fine tuning, might have to bump the fuel pressure up a little so i at least i have a little in reserve. I can also play around with the jaycar IEBC to shut the boost controller off a little more up higher to hold boost.

Saw 100% duty last night, ouch, might have to bump a little more pressure into the injectors, or maybe drop a little boost back, aghh, dont like going backwards.

Yep Z32 AFM Clutch is a Exedy Heavy Duty, havent never had a problem with it

GTR Pump

GT30 Housing. Yep stock injectors, running a nismo FPR

Lol She boosts up quite quickly, have 20psi by 3500rpm. Max power is at 6000rpm, then she starts to fall over. I wonder is the valve springs are shot??

You don't want to know, high 90's,

Actually i have no idea, we have never connected a fuel pressure guage on it

I tune it myself so we didnt spend anytime tidying up AFR's as they where pretty close. I probably should add some fuel into the hi boost settings and take some fuel out of the lower boost settings. Yep stock motor with stock injectors using a FPR. Yeah its pretty quick once you get traction in 3rd and 4th. Have some slicks at home, i'll be happy with a high 11@120mph.

Just got off the dyno last night, here are my results. Car is with normal mods, FMIC, exhaust with split dump, 3.5 inch, hi flow cat, PFC, Jaycar Boost Controller, Turbo is 3071R On low boost it spat out 239.5rwkw at approx 15psi. This is the lowest psi i can go, its running straight from the actuator rod. AFR where quite nice, around 11.8. Flicked the switch to hi boost and first run it went 269rwkw, then added a little more boost and i settled on 275.2rwkw at approx 22psi falling away to 19psi right at the top. The difference between hi and low boost is like chalk and cheese, upto 40rwkw, the difference on the road is fantastic. Looks like power is dropping after 6000rpm on hi-boost, not sure what the problem is there. dyno.pdf

Finally jumped on the dyno last night. Stock RB25DET motor with 3071R turbo Low Boost = 239.5rwkw (15 psi) High Boost = 275.2rwkw (low 20's psi) dyno.pdf

Yeah medium throttle it pops, not all the time but every now and then where before it never popped once. I will connect the Wideband on it and check the AFR's maybe with the O2 sensor working properly, they might have changed

I put a new O2 sensor in, now the car pops occasionally on gear changes. It also popped when i turned the O2 sensor off from the PFC but now i switched it back on and the car occasionally pops on gear changes. I know this is rich fuel but why is it so with the new sensor?

Looks like my bearing has got the shakes on the bottom passenger side. Nissan want $112 for the pulley and bearing. Do you know where i can get it anywhere else cheaper?

Im 6'6 and i fit in my R33 GTST snuglly. I wouldnt want to be any bigger. I took the foot rest out to get a little more room for the left foot. Headroom not a problem without a sunroof

Finally fixed it. I switched the o2 sensor off and bingo, idles like a baby. Just ordered a new o2 sensor, hopefully it does the trick

Would you sell 2 and if so how much to Melb?

170km isnt very good, id wanna see at least 200 out of half a tank. My last 2 tanks im seeing around 230 half a tank and the last fill was 475 at it was dead empty, worked out to be 11.7/100 and thats driving every day to work in peak hour on Boost 98. This tank its a little worse , done about 435 and she needs filling thats on 100 octane.

United in Point Cook Victoria have 100 octane. Tried it and running low 20's boost seems to be just as good as Shells V Power

Some nice numbers there, you certainly have the mph for a good ET. 1.845 60' isnt too bad, if you take 0.2 (1.6) off this and times 2 , you should take a further 0.4 off your ET giving you a high 10.

Yeah im running the RT615 now for the street, definately not as good as the RA1 but will probably last longer. If i had my time again, i would buy the RA1, but also depends on how much spirited driving you do on the street. On a few ocassions, i remember up against a few 4wd's from the lights and with the Ra1's , you dont need to worry about them to much.

Nah not alot of range, maybe 10-15000 before they started to show signs of wear and loose grip. This is the price you pay for grip

I have the 255/40/17 RT615 with mid to high 200rwkw. First gear is a waist and 2nd starts to break traction. They definately dont grip as much as my previous Toyo RA1's were down the 1/4 i could get full grip in 1st gear.

Any other recommendations for a unstable and sometimes high idle (1000rpm) I have leaned the idle right out and it definately helps when rolling to the lights as before it used to rev up and down. Now at idle, sometimes its fine at 700rpm but generally its around 900/1000rpm and sometimes back to 700rpm, but the majority of the time its high, seems to have a mind of its own. Any recommendations as i dont want to reset it.

I used Toyo Ra1's which are a excelent tyre for the street but yeah expensive, $400+. Similiar tyre i beleive to the Re55. Traction was great, didnt need to much warmth, and produced good Et's on the strip. Negatives where noisy, picked up stones, wear too quickly etc. Positives, traction traction and more traction, gripped like a 4wd. Now im trying falkens RT615, definately not as good, but where a cheaper option..