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Spotted a red whistling m35 near Sutherland yesterday, reminded me of mine when the turbo was blown

You should be fine then, for me there was the oem stereo head unit in there, which is a big block with the air con controls on it. Since you don't have that stereo it seems, the air con control should be standalone

Just something I had trouble with, double check your harness before plugging it DONT NOT GROUND THE RED/BLUE WIRE!!!! it is actually the cabin lights/parkers/tail lights!!! I blew up the fuse by doing so with the harness I got. Also, not sure if you got a metra kit for the double din conversion but make sure you have the air con control board as the oem one is most certainly just one big board shared with the stereo. Had to take everything apart after I got one to install it and that's not something you want to do 3 times like I had to

Was searching the other day for a silver gear knob (mine has that wooden insert ) and found those guys : www.japsportsspares.com.au Might be close to yours just to get the lcd plastic cover

Just do as in this video but on the opposite side : There is no clock but still there is a screw at the same place, needs to be done the exact same way.

If you had to buy a good price/quality toolset, which one would you get ? Got a cheap and crap one a while ago and snapped a few tools already so I'll spend a bit more to get something decent but tool brands are different to Europeans one and not sure what to go for. Stanley is the only brand I had before so if there is other good quality tools that are affordable for the Sunday kind of work, I'm listening

OK, exactly what I am after then. Just have to get Craig to fit it now I guess !

Craig installed YangLIU's apparently, hope he has some time to fit mine soon ! Worse come worse, it makes the AT stronger I've read here somewhere so not a complete loss of money.

Response is sort of OK, it's just the shifting time that is stretching for too long I find. As if you would not release the clutch fully on a manual and stay on that friction point for a second which is annoying..

Yeah, that's what I read too, thought somehow the shift would be firmer still even though the downshift signal isn't instantaneous, just hoping

The main reason I'm fitting one is that I hope it will downshift quicker when trying to overtake because car is quite laggy so it would make it nicer to drive because stock auto just adds delay...

Noticed a big difference ?

Check on eBay, best price I found one. Haven't got it installed yet, where are you planning to get it done ?

This is quite expensive for what it is but flat enough I reckon for the space under the boot floor. https://www.motorradgarage.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1793 Maybe look for motorcycle stuff, you might found what you are after

Seen from an other topic after a long search This! Exactly what I did, blew the fuse Got music now Everything is working again

As I was looking for the bung under the battery, I removed more pieces of the car and found the 3rd fuse box just above the drain bung and the blown fuse too ! So the story is that my new head unit I installed was blowing my tail lights fuse. The harness I got is probably not the good one (even though the HU works perfectly) After blowing a couple more fuses, I unplugged the heat unit ... (removing the fascia for the 3rd time .. sigh) and fuse didn't blow up anymore. Here is a picture of the fuse cover in the top right of the engine bay

Alright ! Found the bung, it was full of dirt but no pool in there. Could see that there was one before though. Here is the picture for whoever is looking for it

Am I missing something here ? Couldn't see any bung in there or anything to be flooded besides the battery itself. Is there something else under that compartment ?

Gonna check the tail light block with my multimeter to see if I get current there at least which I doubt Edit: Checked, no juice and blew the brake light fuse to be able to locate it. It's near that accelerator pedal. Edit2 : found this on the forum and can't see the lights fuses in this so there is still hope

Just checked all fuses there and they are all good. Checked the side tail lights and lamps are not blown either. Not sure which taillights are on actually when you turn them on but I think it is the same as the brake light. What's weird is that my brake lights work fine.

Noticed yesterday that my tail lights don't work anymore. If I brake, it works fine but having the lights on, just the headlights will work. Thought I may have blown a fuse while installing the new head unit. Checked the fuses next to the accelerator pedal and they are all good. Is the fuse for lights in another fuse box? Has anyone had this problem before ? Couldn't find anything here or on m35stagea forum.

How would it go with standard ecu ?

Bought that : http://www.amazon.co.jp/NISSAN-%E6%97%A5%E7%94%A3%EF%BC%9A%E3%82%B9%E3%83%86%E3%83%BC%E3%82%B8%E3%82%A2%E3%80%8A%EF%BC%AD%EF%BC%93%EF%BC%95%E3%80%8B%E3%82%A8%E3%82%A2%E3%82%B3%E3%83%B3%E3%82%B9%E3%82%A4%E3%83%83%E3%83%81%E3%83%91%E3%83%8D%E3%83%AB/dp/B012BD8WN0%3FSubscriptionId%3DAKIAJ3AS5HF6GECWRENQ%26tag%3DkCQoZXYX74%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB012BD8WN0 about $60AUD delivered

Actually, I found one but it's quite expensive ($406AUD + $30 delivery) https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/16821 I'd rather avoid using the metra kits, buttons seems real cheap..

Yeah, the separate board is exactly what I'm after. Just can't find one ..