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Godzilla32

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Everything posted by Godzilla32

  1. Sorry to hear it Geoff.. Good to hear your happy with the NIStune software My plates arrived yesterday
  2. Sounds very much like an air leak.
  3. Hey mate, still planning on getting a NIStune Board. Im also going to get a consult LCD screen. They are nice. Good place to plug in the laptop for tuning too.
  4. Hey guys, once again sorry for the lack of updates lately! I've been lazy and not done much to the car so there hasnt been much to write. However just this afternoon i am happy to say i have purchased some personalised plates for it! I was amazed to find the plates TUNED-6 were still available so i snapped them up. I'll post some pics when they arrive
  5. Thats not a remapped ECU. A remapped ECU will have a daughterboard plugged into socket you are suspicious of. NISTUNE used to have all the photos on their site but for some reason they are gone now. The Brown plastic plug is just an earth hub. As much as it looks added its actually standard. I was concerned about that myself when i found mine. Deren PS: If you havent already, dont just go tearing out wires where ever you feel like it. When components are added they could be piggy backed in and the circuit wont be complete if you remove the added parts. Take time and if necessary check with someone that knows and can actually take a look with their own eyes.
  6. I also had to replace 5 injectors that were leaking from the bodies. Get them all out, get them tested and then there is no wasting time or money. BTW Nissan want over $200 for a complete set of genuine o-rings and insulators! Not this time Nissan.. Deren
  7. www.nistune.com keeping in mind there are many companies who offer re-flashing technology
  8. Remove swtich and check relays for 4wd.
  9. I apologise for the lack of updates lately. I havent had alot to add to be honest as ive been pretty much out of cash for awhile. On top of that i have been waiting to hear back about a couple of things which are halting progress. However i am on holidays currently so i have more time to organise everything at the moment. This coming week will hopefully see me put the engine back in finally. Updates to come Deren
  10. Are you sure the belt isnt just loose. A noisy compressor wont just be noisy at start up. It depends on if the bearing in the outer ring is noisy or the main shaft bearing/s are noisy. If its the outer ring bearing it will only be noisy when the compressor isnt running. If its the shaft bearings it will be noisy when the compressor is running. Check the belt condition and the tension. You should remove the belt and have a feel of the outer pulley on the front of the compressor and rotate whole clutch at the front of the compressor to feel the shaft bearings. Although it may not be so easy to feel those bearings as the friction of you trying to turn the compressor will make it deceiving. Also check the a/c belt tensioner for smoothness. Deren
  11. Head lights for the R32 GTR are $480 each from memory. If your replacing the plastic lights in the R33 due to frosting, you can polish them up like new. Just incase you werent aware. Deren
  12. Ok the stainless tank you have circled is called a radiator header tank. It must be mounted higher than any other part of the cooling system. As its job is to remove air from the coolant. It should be about half filled so there is room for expansion and contraction. The other standard plastic bottle is just an overflow bottle which will come into play during times like when you switch the engine off and there is no longer coolant circulating. Heat soak from the engine builds excess pressure in the cooling system which over comes the spring loaded radiator cap and over flows to the bottle. The reverse happens once the system cools and the coolant contracts, it creates a vacuum in the system and draws on the coolant in the overflow botttle. You dont really need both of these over flow bottles/header tanks. As the header tank does 2 jobs, removes air and keeps a consistent supply of coolant available. Hope this helps, Deren
  13. Thats a bit of a generalisation. More than likely its the turbo flange gasket. Very common for the bolts/nuts to come loose over time from the vibration/heat expansion and contraction. Sounds like a shrilling noise, almost as if there is something stuck in there rubbing on the blades. It will only occur during spooling and on boost. Check the 4 nuts/bolts that secure the turbo to the manifold. Deren
  14. No they dont need to be oiled
  15. Factory sensor wont have any bearing on what the Autometer one reads. Perhaps the Autometer sensor has issues and after some running it becomes faulty and doesnt output the correct signal? You should be able to test it for resistance i would think? Not sure of what you should expect to see though..
  16. When i called JustJap they couldnt tell me when they would have a heater hose kit suited to the R32 GTR. Not to mention sounding a little rude to me. Ministry have a heater hose kit suited to the R32 GTR, for $200 you get them delivered. Radiator hoses are $80. I somehow got the firewall hoses suited to the R33/34 as a bonus. Very comprehensive kit and i highly recommond it for the price. The only hoses you wont get are the 2 turbo coolant feed hoses that run across the front of the engine. Deren
  17. If you PM me your VIN i can get the appropriate part numbers or you can go to Ministry of Bass to buy complete silicone hose kits. Deren
  18. Ive got my bolts, nuts ans washers through Wurth Australia. My tubing i have bought from Ministry of sound.
  19. Probably a good idea to use a seperate rev counter to work out if its your tacho or the signal thats the problem.
  20. Thanks mate i appreciate your feedback. I have actually gotten more particular with it as its progressed. It started out as a respray and has turned into a full on nut and bolt build. Well i can go as far to say nut, bolt and clip build Its been a very involved journey over the last 3 years and counting. I prefer the subtle enhancements, keeping it looking clean. I think they are a very nice looking car from factory so i didnt think it was worth messing with too much as far as exterior looks are concerned. Engine is hopefully going back in next weekend. Pics to come Deren
  21. Handling power and how long it lasts is the exact same thing. If it doesnt last long then it clearly doesnt handle it lol. Whats the facination of N1 parts? Cheaper to buy quality parts from suppliers like ACL, CP, etc. Dont waste your time with N1 oil or water pumps they are both worse off over standard items. More so the oil pump having layered gearset. The water pumps are known to cavitate during street use and more ideal for track use (high rpm for extended periods). My recommendation is buy some ACL pistons as they have a very good ring set ($1000), buy either Eagle ($700) or Spool ($645) rods, ACL heat treated main and big end bearings (about $70 each), new stock water pump and with that kind of power you should go with a billet gearset oil pump like the Tomei pump ($1300-1400). Look at how other people jave setup cars with that kind of turbo and get an idea of whats needed.
  22. Thats cars for you..
  23. You mean you wanna make it look like this? Its not that hard to remove. You will need to undo the 2x bolts that hold it to the bracket on the block/head. Once they are loose you will be able to take the belt off the power steering pulley. Then remove the feed hose from the reseviour, and the High pressure line/s. 2x if you have HICAS. It will drip a fair bit of powersteering fluid so do it over a catch tray and degrease after your done. Make sure you have some P/S fluid to fill it back up. Deren
  24. Well the front of the coil pack isnt epoxt its plastic and all kinds of repairs have been trialed and none are permanent. There is a big different between over fuelling (blown IC pipe) and a missfire. Well as long as it worked for you thats great
  25. Sounds like vacuum leak. A non recirculating blow off valve will give you the same results though. Check everything behind the throttle blade to make sure you dont have a vacuum leak and if you do have a atmo venting blow off valve try recirculating it and see if the problem goes away. He's right though the PFC D-Jetro will eliminate that problem.
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