Godzilla32

The problem is they are known for hair line cracks on the front of the coil pack not so much through the epoxy. BTW blown intercooler pipes wont cause a misfire mate. Better start that apprenticeship lol Not to mention they are 15 year old coil packs, with 15 year old windings. So a cheap fix isnt always a permanent fix. There are different reasons why coil packs fail and you can't assume they are all for the same reason. So no, its not the end all to coil pack failure.

Get them properly shimmed. A good shop will actually shim it down by a couple of thou over factory and quieten it slightly. A positive of this is slightly more valve lift also.

Yes the oiled filters have been known to cause issues with the 'hot wire' AFM's. Id be changing that for a dry element. You can always buy a RAF17 (repco) or A360 (Ryco) filter which will drop straight in and see how you go. Wont be anymore than 20 bucks. Things to look at for the idle are Idle control valve, located under the plenum. If your getting cold start idle up then its pretty safe to say the Air regulator is operating properly. You could check that the TPS is adjusted correctly. Theres a few things to keep you going anyway, Deren

Haha yeh, there should be one of those silly shows called 'When working on cars goes bad' lol. You should see my rental property! Its had a GTR fully rebuilt in house...Literally I have some work to do if i ever want to see my bond again hehe.

Nothing wrong there

Gotta make sure you tension the belt correctly accross the section that goes from the crank back upto the top. Checking the other side is a false reading. Also you MUST wind the engine over at least 2 revolutions once you initially set the belt tension. Then recheck all marks and crack the tensioner bolt again and let it reset or make your own final adjustment. I also think you are very lucky not to have bent any valves with 4 or 5 teeth skipped.

So its deffinetly making some boost? Commonly the turbine wheel will come to pieces and then you have no boost. This generally happens during boost though. If your making some boost you will need to investigate things like the boost controller, blockage in the intake system or boost leak, etc

If your running the stock ECU it will also retard timing as ambient temps increase to avoid detonation. That will be most noticable.

More than likely its the combo switch itself playing up. If the contacts are dirty or damaged it will cause problems.

It will only move upto 1 degree toe. Im told its just not as predictable on the limit through a corner as the rear toe is constantly altering. I too have kept HICAS and until i find it annoying myself i will keep it. Just didnt want to jump on the remove HICAS bandwagon. Its easy to follow the rest of the sheep sometimes. In saying that however i will probably be removing it after my first track session LOL Deren

Probably not the first fire day Just incase i do something wrong LOL I will deffinetly have it at a few shows though and will be more than happy to let people take a look.

The woo noise isnt just the clutch fan is it? It will lock up once you get it hot enough and start to make a noise with engine RPM. Dont worry about the clutch on the a/c compressor kicking in and cutting out. Its cycling, its supposed to do that. Check your power steering fluid level in the reseviour.

Mr forgetful Yeh i'll be driving it on weekends and track days, etc. Plan to show it too. Won't ever be sold! I've spent way too much cash on it to ever think about selling the thing. I guess i have more motivation than i thought cuz ive already redone the plenum. With gaskets this time! Deren

I spent about 2 hours fitting up the plenum etc this afternoon only to realise whilst i was packing up that i had forgotten to put in the last 3 throttle body gaskets between the TB's and the plenum! DOH.. So when i feel motivated i will undo it all and slip them in

I coulda said that but i think he wanted to know exactly which fuse to pull. If its in japanese it can be hard to read Fuel wont spill out everywhere. There will be a a tiny little spray if you disconnect it shortly after the pump has been running.

Bloody commodores! Eye candy as far as turbos go though

I can only help when it comes to R32's. If you havent had the ignition on for awhile and you release pressure in the tank as a precaution it will barely leak any fuel. Just hold a rag over it when you pull the hose off. Even just after you turn the ignition off (pressure built up) it will only spray a tiny bit out for a second. Nothing much to be concerned about This is all i do every day at work.

Haha it was my guess but i wasnt 100% sure Been keeping an eye on your Silv Brendan. Looking good mate

Yeah im hanging What does FTW mean? It looks like its the same color as the car but its actually a shade darker with no gloss. A little more subtle than i expected Regarding the heater hose kit, its the same price as the other kit for the R33/R34. It comes with the R33/R34 hoses also, well mine did. $200 for the kit which includes 15 pieces and $80 for the radiator hoses They are all fitted up minus the ones that run along the firewall. Im desperate to find someone i can buy those little spring action hose clamps from. I want to replace the vacuum tubing clamps with the chromate yellow colored spring clamps. Anyone?? Deren

Ok i got the plenum back and im pretty happy with it this time (3rd time lucky). Its been trial fitted to the engine and looks pretty sweet if i do say so myself. So this weekend i will be completing all necessary work to allow me to refit it back into the car as soon as i get a mates engine crane All going to plan it will hopefully be back in its home within a month or so! Once again i apologise for the less than great photos. Still need to get a decent camera. Deren

Car has been returned to me finally Everything is great, apart from the rear pods i bought off a GTS skyline. They are painted up but someone forgot to check if they actually fit. The rear quarters are different on the GTR and the pods dont sit perfectly. Something to sort out. The car is also quite dusty now after being at the panel shop for a few weeks so there is much to be cleaned Still waiting on final chrome job on the plenum. Hopefully it will be back to me by friday and i can finish the engine this weekend. I'll be borrowing an engine crane in the couple of weeks. More to come, Deren

Its the Transfer case actuator and speedo drive. They will possibly have o-rings sealing them and once the 0-ring goes hard it no longer seals. Very easy to replace. Deren

You know you can test your AFM's with a volt meter Cranking = 1v Idle = 1.1v 2500rpm = 2v Full load will be 4.5 - 5v

This week i inspected the car at the body shop. Everything is done and im happy so the car will be trucked back to me in the next few days. It looks amazing. While there i had the rear pods painted to match and they will go on once everything else is completed on the body. Still waiting for the plenum before i can complete the engine. Once its back on i will refit the engine back into the car. Then get to work refitting everything thats not already on the front of the car, such as intercooler, front bumper, etc. Still need to reassemble the gearbox and get the glass back into the car. This week i got a few more things from Nissan Japan including a new coolant bottle. Nothing wrong with the old one but it couldnt be cleaned to look like new So if anyone needs one im +1 Deren

Nissan will sell you a new one.