Godzilla32

I know how to rebuild a r32 GTR ground up If you need help on anything GTR i'll happily help. Deren

I think its a fair call. There are alot of timewasters but it is upto yourself to choose who is worth listening to.

You can remove it, it acts mostly as a rattle deadner. Perhaps a little as a heat barrier. Im thinking not to refit mine for a cleaner look.

CAS is common fault on those.

Put a boost gauge on it and see what its doing in terms of boost. Besides that its hard to give advice without experiencing it first hand. Was it doing that before you fitted the racepace boost setting you mentioned?? If not revert back to stock and eliminate causes. PS: you dont need a FMIC it will only reduce intake temps. This is a problem that needs to be rectified before anymore work is done to the car in terms of power gains. Deren

Cheers mate Your XB sounds very nice. Love them too. One thing thats annoying me is relying on other people to do work. If only i was able to do it all myself. Unfortunately chrome work etc is out of my hands and currently taking alot of effort to get right! Not completely happy. I had planned to put the plenum back on the engine this weekend and complete the engine but it wasnt to be. The plenum was returned to me for the 2nd time in less than satisfactory condition. So back it went More waiting... Well its been 3 years, i've learnt to be patient The car itself is currently having a few bits and pieces done and its also taking much longer than anticipated too. Once again, im being patient Added a pic of current engine progress. As you can see not much left besides fuelling and plenum etc. Sorry about the bad quality pics. More soon, Deren

Thanks mate. I always wanted the perfect R32 GTR inside and out. Its was a very neat one owner 40,000km vehicle to begin with but i decided to go all out I plan to make some videos of things like first fire, dyno tuning, and driving of course. Engine is very close to complete now, so it will be going back in once i get the car back from the body shop. They have been doing a few more bits and pieces for me. Deren

Im desperately after the original GT Spec stainless exhaust from Apexi for my R32 GTR. If you have one in good condition please contact me. PM or Call only, Deren 0402829091 Thanks

Its just the hoses that run from the heater box to the coolant galleries on the engine. The kit you have the link for includes 14 hoses. The ones i have plus the hoses under the plenum. They would be very difficult to do with the engine in the car. With patience you can do the 4 i have with the engine in the car. Deren

Item: R33/34 RB26DETT Blue Silicone Heater hoses (4 pieces) Age: Brand new Condition: Brand new Price: $100 To Fit: (What car) R33/34 GTR Location: Brisbane Contact: PM or 0402829091 Comments: Came in kit and were not needed

Yeah my guess would be a hole in the diaphram inside the clutch booster itself. Well thats where the drawing appears to be. Have you noticed any difference in clutch pedal feeling? Is it any heavier? With a vacuum leak you will also get bad/fast idle etc

Its actually pretty far from done but getting there slowly. Im still waiting for the silicone hoses to come from Ministry of Bass. They should arrive tomorrow. Once they come in i will fit them all to the engine. From there, besides fitting the throttles and plenum, only small jobs remain before i can refit the engine back into the car. Deren

Im looking at 500-600hp on my stock crank. Just linished and fitted with a JUN crank collar. Save your money

There are companies that specialise in broken stud removals. They come to you. Search in the phone book. If you wanna do it yourself you will need to get an Ezy out as mentioned. If the stud is seized in there it will be a pain to get out. Plenty of penetrant (WD-40), Ezy out, Centre punch, small drill, etc is what you will need to do the job. I dont think they charge too much to come and do it for you though. Try Thread tech.. Deren

I can give you a part number if you tell me what engine it is. RB25 in R32? Deren

If you plan on big power (500+hp@engine) and you have the money to do it. Its a good idea to do the work before something breaks as it can destroy the block in the process if a rod breaks. Spool has cheap rod/piston combos. Check it out. $1800 from memory

Thanks mate Glad you have enjoyed reading it. Love all the feedback. Deren

Yeah i know what you mean. Im so excited about taking my boy out for a drive one day soon. I was looking at those Recaro baby seats Just ordered the silicone hoses from Ministry of Bass

Haha no, i ate KFC once in it before the rebuild but as a rule... No consumption of food in vehicle! Thanks Brendan its slowly coming together now, engine will go back in soon. Lots of reading yeah, will be a great way to keep a record of all the work i've done to it. Deren

Stick with stock or upgrade to a billet geared pump. Im using stock and i will be pushing upto 600hp at the wheels. The only thing to becareful is hitting rev limit alot as this is what can shatter the pump gears. You can look at upgrading the harmonic balancer to help things.

Ok during the weekend just passed i have done quite a bit of work to my beloved RB26. The turbo side is 99% completed. Only missing a hose or two. I've fitted up the external oil return now too. I have tracked down a heater hose kit for the BNR32 (15 pieces) through Ministry of Bass. So thats a great relief because it was the one thing holding me up from completing the engine and refitting it back into the car. More soon.. Deren

The diagnostic system would be a good idea to run but you need to see if your getting 4wd once you can drive it. AFM's could also be a cause of bad fuel consumption but you would generally expect more than just bad consumption from dud AFM's. Unless one has died and its reverted to using a single AFM. Thats something the ECU does in that situation. Need to get your AFR checked. Get the car scanned for trouble codes and if nothing is found its just a matter of testing each sensor for its ouput. The buzzing will most likely be an electronic actuator for climate control. Its quite common on R32's and i think they generally have the air mix door actuator fail. Have to get in there while its doing it which will likely require dash removal. If they are anything like the R32 its quite easy to do, so dont be scared of having a go. If you need any further help feel free to PM me. GTR lover here Deren

I have taken some pics of the inlet and exhaust ports with my camera fone. At night it doesnt come out the best but you get the idea. It appears the have a much straighter path to the back of the valves on both the inlet and exhaust. Probably more so on the inlet. The divider is very thin on the inlet side now. I'll get Will to explain all the reasons behind it all and note it down soon. I included a pic of the inlet side before porting. More to come soon.. Deren

Got the chromed parts back today. Overall pretty happy with the result. Going to look nice on the engine Now im just waiting on Just Jap to release a heater hose kit for the R32 Rb26!! Its the only thing holding me back from refitting the engine into the car. Well that and reassembling the exterior of the engine. Deren

The rear turbo oil drain can be unbolted off the block with 2 bolts (one long, one short). The front turbo oil return is less easy to remove from the block so i wouldnt advise that. You'll just have to undo the hose clamps or cut them off and slip the hose up one of the pipes enough to pull it out of the other. They are well lubricated as they carry oil so it should move easy enough with some gentle persuasion. Good luck mate, Deren PS: They can both be seen clearly in the pic i attached.