Godzilla32

I think this has happened to all BNR32 owners at least once lol. Reading thru the thread i was about to post the same but GTRsean beat me.

Yeah i called them today. He said there is a good chance that they were going to put together a set for the R32 RB26 so i'll keep my fingers crossed that it happens. Its a nice hose kit. Put the head back on tonight actually. Will from JHH put it on with me so now i have peace of mind its all gone together properly. Still have to put everything else back on it now but the basics are bolted together at this point. So far i got one pic of the ARP2000 studs screwed into the block and the gasket on, but yet to take some pics of the port job. Its a nice job though. Sorry about the quality of the pic but ive only got my camera on my mobile to take pics at the moment unfortunately. Deren

After spending some time in FAST comparing all the hoses i have found that the heater hoses themselves that run along the firewall to the water galleries are different upto there! The rest appear the same but i havent compared part numbers at this stage. Looks like im back to the Samco option unless they can get me a set which will suit the R32 RB26 cooling system. Fingers crossed! Im disappointed at this stage Deren

Thanks for the support mate Im hoping that kit also includes the turbo coolant feed hoses. Looks like it probably does. They are quite visible and it would be nice to have shiney new blue ones lol. I would love a vspec2 but this is what i began the venture on so no turning back now haha. Standard is nice to have but i simply couldnt resist some fettling (well quite a lot). My project goal has changed some what, as i originally had planned to keep it pretty stock. Mind you the build had also been planned to be much less extensive when i was at that stage. On a side note, Nissan spare parts have been nothing short of brilliant to deal with here in Brisbane. I have been going through Cleveland Nissan and they have got me every single part number i have ever requested minus one which was an insignifcant body part no longer available. In saying that though, they have gotten me many tiny little clips and brackets rarely seen. In 99% of cases it seems if i can track down the part number (saves them the job, FAST works wonders), they can get me the part. I have spent a small fortune with them but they are good enough to give me discounts on larger purchases. As i work as a mechanic here the trade price is also handy. So, many thanks to Rob, Mark, Paul and Sam at Cleveland Nissan! Oh and to add something more, i'll be getting the cylinder head back tomorrow night and will be likely to refit it this weekend. Pics to come ASAP Deren

Excellent i just had a look while getting their number and they do the radiator hoses too! Its $100 dollars cheaper than the Samco stuff and i will be getting twice as much. Can prolly wipe the Just Jap and Cooling pro logos off with some wax and grease remover lol Once again thanks mate, good saving there!

Thank you very much for that insight Duncan! However they are for R33 and R34. Would it be compatible with my car? Quite cheap too. If its comparable quality to the Samco hoses and it will fit i will go that option. Deren

Get the top tank replaced on your stock radiator. Done it for $175. Unless you need the extra cooling ability for racing purposes its just a wank. Autotechnica is junk in my opinion. Made very cheaply and all is copies of original good quality products. When you add up how much you will spend on an aluminium radiator, an ATF cooler, and the plumbing necessary, you will see its just not worth it. On top of that you have to mount the cooler core and screw around with plumbing. Does the aluminium radiator have provisions for the shroud to mount onto? Things like that are worth taking into account.

Hey mate, good to hear about your new car! The ticking is most likely as you suspected, a relay. There are 2 relays there. One is for HICAS and one for the fuel pump. My housemates GTS4 does the same thing actually. However in his case, i discovered it was HICAS relay not the fuel pump. Run the diagnostic check on the car or get it scanned with a scan tool to find out what trouble codes you might have. As far as the hesitation goes its something that i'd have to experience, but check for: Miss-fire in the ignition system - Check for hair line cracks on the coil packs. Condition of all the ignition system wiring looms. Spark plug condition and gap. TPS - Dead spot on the contacts inside the TPS causing it to ground as you hit the bad contact AFM's - Dirty or not operating correctly, check voltage under load. Fuel pressure - Should be approximately 250kpa, 50kpa more with pressure reg vacuum signal disconnected Few things to look at first up anyway Forgot to add about servicing items. Obviously an oil change and oil filter is necessary. Check air filter/s. As previously mentioned spark plugs. Brake fluid and clutch fluid for cleanliness and moisture. Fuel filter is a good idea to change. Check all your gear oils for cleanliness, IE: front diff, transfer case, gearbox, and rear diff. Check coolant for concentration and cleanliness. Give the car a thorough check over for leaks. Check brake pad thickness (probably ok though as it is part of RWC). Depending on how many km's it has, check if its due for a timing belt change. If so its a good idea to do the belt tensioner, belt idler and water pump at the same time. At the moment thats the main things that come to mind. If i think of anything else i'll add them Welcome to the expensive hobby of owning a GTR! Deren

If you give me your VIN i can check it in FAST or alternativly you can check the paint codes in the cosmetic section of the forum. Its in the sticky section at the top.

I dont really get it either. I think anymore than putting a useless exhaust and air filter pod on one of those is just a waste of money.. Save your money and buy something thats a proper sports car! Saves money in the long run.

Haha, what a crack up! It suprises me what people will spend money on..

Buy a compression gauge, they arent expensive. You just crank the engine over with all plugs out and the gauge in each cylinder. One at a time of course. Should read 150-160 PSI if its pretty fresh or slightly lower if its got a few km's on it. You need to do this before anything else to rule out mechanical fault. Deren

You do each cylinder seperatly so only need one cylinder to be at TDC on power stroke. Then move onto the next and so on. Make sure its not going to rotate either way from there. Pressurise that cylinder and watch and listen for leakage. If its rings you will hear it in the dip stick, if its exhaust valves you will hear it in the exhaust, and if its intake valves you will hear it in the intake manifold. Deren

When does the light come on? As soon as you start the engine and never go out? Or when you start to move? Or when you first apply the brakes? You can try running a diagnostic on the ABS system. Check your wheel speed sensors are connected. You can test them for continuity and voltage output as they are pulse generators. You will need a decent multimeter though as they will only read milli-volts. Check ABS fuses and relays Basically try retracing your steps when you fitted the lock bar as its sure to have had something to do with it. Deren

They dont do it because its time consuming and expensive. Im told its a solid 10 hours of grinding to achieve this result. The manual labour would push the final cars retail price up much higher. If they have already achieved their factory power output with cheaper options it allows them to make more profit.

I very much doubt it as they have the transfer case on the back of the GTR box so less length of tail shaft needed. I can measure mine if you like.

Im very confused as my Nismo mount kit i have bought for my GTR has part numbers on the box that dont match the numbers on the mounts themselves. The number on engine mounts is 11220-01U01 (standard part number) and the number on the Nismo boxes is 11220-RS580. I bought these from Greenline and have just emailed them to ask. Can anyone that has a set of these mounts confirm they arent supposed to have the same Nismo part number on them? I feel a bit stooged.. Thanks, Deren

No down side. Its a full port job which means optimising flow of the cylinder head. This equates to more power without turbo assitance (20-25%). Valve clearance will be brought down a couple of thou so it will actually be quieter. Idle will only change with more overlap in the valve timing. Can't wait for that .

That will be fine mate. Check your PM. I've pulled the head back off mid week and it was picked up last night. On top of the valve springs and head stud kit i have now decided to do a full race port on the head. This will give a gain on its own of 20-25% so basically means less boost for same power or more boost for even more power I had previously had it pocket flowed, slight chamber work to relieve detonation mainly and the inlet manifold was match ported to the head. This will bring the head upto optimum flow and maximise breathing efficiency. The head has been serviced already but im told the job wasnt perfect. So it will get a full set of new cast guides (current guides are k-lined), the full port job which includes re-seating the valves as they are actually lifted slightly in the chambers, re-surfacing of the head, reshimmed and pulled down by a couple of thou, new performance springs fitted and bolted back on with the ARP 2000 head stud kit. Once i have the head back i will include some pics of the port job by JHH so you know where to go for the best possible outcome! I will also include a better list of what the port job includes as im a little vague on details at the moment. Deren

If the clutch master is bypassing fluid then you will see it leaking down the front of the clutch booster. With clutch bleeding sometimes you have to first use a sucker to pull the fluid through and then give it a pressure bleed. By having a larger slave and continuing to use the stock master it won't have the same hydraulic ratio. Are the Nismo big slaves mean't to be used with the stock master? I thought the smaller original master wouldnt have the capacity to efficently fill the nismo slave. When you feel you have an ok pedal you need to check under the car how much slave travel you are actually getting.

Yeah haha. Should be even cleaner on the way back Im happy to show it off once its completed. If anyone wants to come round for a chat and to check it out in the mean time im happy to catch up An update on the valve springs: I will be using the brand 'Performance valve springs' as they are alot cheaper than Tomei type B. Tomei type A are marginally, if any better than stock springs. These springs are just as good as the type B's so they are my choice for the money. Aswell as those i'll be getting the ARP head stud kit at the same time. Might look at removing the head this weekend. Deren

Ok im 99% sure im going to pull the head back off. On top of fitting the locators to make sure the gasket is in position, i will be fitting aftermarket valve springs and an ARP head stud kit Should have done this from the start. The springs will be in place ready for when i have the cash to fit up tomei cams. So on top of costing me an extra $700 bucks i'll have a good solid weekend of work ahead of me! On another note the car got towed to the body shop today and i visited it to make sure they were aware of what needed to be done. I have bought some R32 Gts-t factory rear pods too. I have been told they came on the 'Type M' version? Anyway they will hopefully help finish the skirts after the rear wheels. Deren

Its 2 kits from Samco thru HyperFlow. A radiator kit (TCS37/H) and heater hose kit (TCS37/H). The vacuum tubing is by 3m packs. So its not one big kit. I'll just make up all the vacuum hoses. All that is about $450 for enough to do the car. By the way you can use the Samco vacuum tubing for low pressure coolant supply too. EG: overflow bottle. Im a bit worried cuz i realised friday night that i didnt put any locators in the cylinder head before i put it back on. I was told by GTRsean that its supposed to have 2. I lined mine up with 2 bolts. One at either end in opposite row. Will this matter? If it is meant to have these 2 locator sleeves, i will pull the head off and while im there fit some new Tomei valve springs. Im already using all tomei metal gaskets so they wont be an issue to reuse as the engine hasnt been run yet. Let me know what you guys think about the locator sleeves. I will call Will at JHH tomorrow for his thoughts but im still keen to know what everyone thinks. Deren

Yeah it was originally my intention but then i went crazy with the performance mods. I want it all to stand out and look pretty hardcore now. Nothing much about the car is factory anymore. Its all very obvious its all been gone over meticulously anyway. So all the chrome, bright blue samco hoses, and shiney earls plumbing just add to making it an interesting engine bay. We all know how dull they can look factory! Its a engineering masterpiece so i want to give it the look to match! Im actually down visiting my boy this weekend as i type. He's great He'll be 1 year old in October. Really developing a personality now and lots of fun! Deren

Yeah im familiar with the ones in the throttle bodies. It shouldnt matter that i didnt have them in should it? Its just to line it up. I made sure all the bolts were started and tightening down nicely so i assume its where its supposed to be.