Godzilla32

I built mine awhile back but its been sitting for awhile. I just had a thought that maybe when the block was machined i hadn't replaced dowls as i thought it was strange that there was nothing to line it up with. What are the steel locators? I didnt have anything just used 2 bolts one in each end on opposite rows to line it up.. Are those steel locators removable for decking etc?

Help me to rest easy! Can some of you confirm that the RB26 block is not dowled to the cylinder head? Thanks, Deren

Hey Dave, i got mine thru a group buy. Check in the group buy section if they are still available. If not i may consider selling mine as something else has come up. Ok finally I have a bit of an update. Recently i have come into some money! So i will be getting my chromed parts back very soon. On top of that i have ordered a full set of Samco silicone blue hoses. This includes heater hoses, radiator hoses and all vacuum tubing. Also ordered the Earl's plumbing required for my external oil return. I have booked a tow for the car to send it back to the body shop. As there are a few things i want to get sorted before i put my beloved RB26 back in its home, and everything else (lots) thats still in my car parts room! So i put the car back on its wheels for the first time in about 18 months! It was exciting so i can't imagine how overwhelming it will be to fire it into life, not to mention drive the damn thing However it wasnt without a few hiccups as the Cusco front shock pillowball mounts need some fettling. I left out a spacer thinking it wasnt necessary but without it the shocks arent properly fitted. For now it will be ok but when i get a chance on its return i will take a look. I will post pics as they are available. Deren

Sounds like it could be clutch related issue if its every gear and also engaging 1st. Get your clutch checked out. Does the clutch feel OK? Check clutch fluid level. Make sure the clutch hydraulics are in good conditon and getting good travel at the slave cylinder. You can check gear oil but i doubt it will be the cause. Deren

Sounds like a good mechanic Good to hear your all fixed up!

Its not a kit, ive put it all together myself. Do a search for sydney kids oil control mods and it will outline what you will need to do.

Just follow them with your hands. What are you trying to achieve? Plumbing your heater back up?

If it wasnt then you would already have a problem. My gauge was always reading pretty low too. I pulled my entire engine down in the rebuild and it was all fine

There is. You can see where one goes as its right next to the fitting it connects to normally at the back of the block and the other is at the front of the block but has a small piece of hose that connects it to a metal pipe then the heater hose connects to that close to where the other heater hose connects. Deren

Most likely the different viscosity of oil coupled with a dodgy oil pressure sender. I dont think id be too worried, if anything was seriously wrong you'd already know about it. BTW: Keep in mind as the oil heats up more and more it gets thinner and thinner resulting in less oil pressure.

If your sure you have a good spark and fuel getting to the cylinders then perhaps its IGN timing? I would have thought it would still cough and splutter. What was done to the car up until the time it wouldnt start?

I just looked in FAST and its supposed to be mounted up under the front bumper by the looks. Kind of up under the top of the main center intake duct. The FAST pic doesnt detail it too well so theres not much point in me uploading the pic. Have a look around that area and see what you can see. Deren

I am also very passionate about my GTR. Only gotta read my GTR thread to understand that! Im very fussy and very pedantic. If you or anyone else ever needs any help with your car (especially GTR's) please do not hesitate to contact me, as a mechanic i am more than happy to help where i can. Good move with the VP Buying a GTR was always my dream too.

Oh god not pedgman??? My mate bought a car from them which was luckily quite tidy but as far as their machanical work goes i wouldnt really recommend them. They fitted a castor rod to his car and left it a little loose, over time it starting moving. Everyone makes mistakes, but its upto you. I wouldnt recommend them personally.

Yeah for what its worth the external oil return is a popular mod for peace of mind. It returns the oil to the deep end of the sump near the pickup rather than at the back, where under extreme acceleration g forces, the oil will struggle to return to the deep end. The result is obviously oil starvation Good mod for any modified RB. If you read through my thread you will find a list of all the oil control mods ive done as suggested by lots of people including SK. Deren

Drain old oil and remove filter. Fit new oil filter. Replace sump plug (preferably with new copper washer). Add 3 litres of oil initially so you can start it up. Wait for the oil pressure light to go out, this basically means oil filter and everything else is full of oil and upto pressure. Switch engine off. Wait 10 seconds and check oil level. Keep topping up until you reach the full mark (not necessary to start it again). As a general guide i have found on most cars that between the 'L' and 'H' marks on the dipstick is about 1 litre. I have done this 100's of times at work so its tried and tested! Good luck with it mate Deren BTW: make sure you check the oil level on a level ground.

There was already a book marked manual going around which i have a copy of. Still be keen to see your version of it. Where did u buy the manual from?

So have you actually had your car scanned for codes or not? Bit hard to follow if thats what you read or actually did. If you want to isolate which coil is failing you can either check them all for resistance, visually inspeact them closely for hairline cracks, or if its bad enough check for arcing from the coil packs preferably at night so its easier to see. Remove the coil cover and load up the engine to try and induce arcing from the coils. It will be a little blue spark shooting out and grounding on the spark plug tube.

Are the rotors glazed? IE: are they shiney like mirrors? That will cause a squeeking too. Warped rotors will cause shuddering under braking more than anything.

I always check it with the engine running. P/S that is

A silly question maybe but have you filled the P/S while the engine is running and bled it of air. Im guessing your mechanic would do that but thought i may aswell ask.

You should be able to punch out the original fitting completely and tap straight into the more solid cover itself. Then fit up an adapter and for example a swivel seal fitting.

If it was fine before, whats the chances the wiring to number 4 has become damaged. If it was heat affected and on its last legs fiddling with it may have finished it off. Good check list there to find out the problem though, text book style

I agree, its a mile away when the CAS isnt lined up. Weird. Also agree about the CAS and not the cam

Fitting plugs does not require the disconnecting of the battery Did u wash the engine? Maybe some moisture got into the spark plug tubes and it arced until it dried up. If it were me id gap as big as i could until it missed as you are really cutting your spark down. Deren