Godzilla32

I got a bit of the ole RB26 droop on the engine stand too. I used another jack to support the front of the engine. Do you think its a bad idea to have all the weight on 4 bolts that hold it to the stand? With nicely sized bolts the droop is minimal but theres still a heap of weight in a fully assembled RB26. Was a bit worried about that with mine.. BTW: An easy way to remove the right hand cv shaft is to take the front diff inspection cover off and use a lever to push the shaft out from the diff center. Comes out easy like that.

Just check that the injectors are seated properly in the insulators at the bottom. You may need to remove them all and refit it all again with some lube on the injector pintle caps and on the insulators. Or if you wanna go all out buy a set of genuine insulators. Gimme your VIN for genuine part number. As mentioned the air leak will cause surging and high idle etc. Deren

Yes i will agree on this i had the same issue when i forgot to plug it back in a few years back. Only hot air! Hopefully the fix for you also

Interesting to see the comparison between the GTR's of bathurst and the modern day track times. I wonder what the main difference are? Braking? Tyres compounds? In my opinion a vl walkinshaw looks like a tank merged with a car. A bodykit that looks like its had one too many big mac's. I think your on the wrong forum to be saying that about V8 muscle cars. Yes they are tough looking, but you can't over look the toughness of a GTR; in my eyes anyway.

Thanks for that, sounds good. Im actually getting the complete races off a guy BTW: If they raced today with a race prepped R35 GTR the results would still be the same Holden and Ford have nothing on superior japanese engineering/technology. Perhaps a little biased but my opinion none the less..

I've just sprayed the cylinders with some WD40, nothing else. The NIStune software and license is $200, and the chip/daughter board is $200. If you go to NIStune.com all the details are there. Im away doing a cylinder head job this weekend. All going well so far Deren

Ok fair enough. See how i go when i eventually purchase it.. Thanks for your input BTW Matt has informed me that its possible to map a boost curve with NIStune using the stock boost control solenoid but only on the BNR32, S14A, and S15. Unfortunetly there is no map tracing for the boost map. You can however ready the map trace off one of the other maps and use that to know what cells to adjust. The only down side so far is they havent finalised knock sensing on NIStune so that is still to come but Matt emailed me today saying that last night they had it working while tuning a HCR32 and it went very well so its just a matter of time really Deren

I'd personally always prefer to remove the box and engine separetly, easier and less chance of damage occuring. But each to their own. Really depends what your plans are for the job. If its just a matter of wrecking the car into parts then you may aswell do it that way but not otherwise.

Good for economy too. Without a good economical tune for low load, fuel consumption would suck...Literally Mark Jaconsen around the corner from me seemed interested in NIStune today when i had a chat with him. He said if i wanted we could tune the car together using NIStune on his 4WD dyno and as it would be his first time using NIStune he would do it cheaper and use it as a experience gaining session with the different software/system. So im thinking to take the car there once im ready to start it and run it in on the dyno.. Deren

Hey Geoff, how are ya? I figured since im only working on top of the stock tune with NIStune i can't go too wrong. Especially if im only doing light load tuning etc. See how i go i guess. Just keep an eye on the Knock levels and AFR's.. My boss just bought a fancy new wide band O2 sensor system so i'll 'borrow' that till i get my own. I dont believe you can beat the NIStune system now that i have really looked into it. I will also be able to use it to map my boost curve which will utilise the stock boost control solenoid Meaning no need for an EBC = saving money. Does an EBC like the AVC-R actually let you manually map a boost curve? Last time i installed one and set it up i can only remember setting max boost and the option to set boost for different gears. It would be my other alternative if i did go for an EBC. Deren

I still wouldnt rule out a misfire especially if its worse or only under load. Have to witness it to make an accurate judgement..

Well done mate! That has to be satifying You gotta show me this car of yours, sounds really nice! Deren

Hey guys, thought i better make an update as its been awhile. I havent been able to do much since im lacking necessary funds Seems i have run myself into financial difficulties lately. Ohwell just means i have to be even more tight until i can pay off debts and get back into the clear I received a pair of the group buy leather gear shift and hand brake boots today. For $55 bucks it was worth it. They got fitted to the console and look pretty good. The parts are still over at the chrome platers. For $300 the plenum, twin turbo pipe, and the compression pipe off the rear turbo got polished and for $140 they will all get a layer of shiney chrome. As you can see the expense is in the polishing itself, with that fiddly plenum being the more expensive bit. At this stage im not sure when i'll be able to afford to pick them up, but it will be my next job. Over the weekend i have become hooked on the idea of using NIStune hardware and software to tune my GTR. For the price and power of the system i can't say no. It will do anything and everything anyone could ever want and more lol. I plan to do some of the tuning myself and get familiar with it. Another piece of gear i will most likely buy will be ECUTalk Consult LCD screen. Its also very useful for keeping an eye on everything while using all original equipment. If you havent seen either of these products i would highly recommend a look: www.NIStune.com www.ecutalk.com/consultlcd.aspx

When you say 'go back' do you mean look at the tune that you have previously burnt to the chip? Or just during tuning? Im guessing the latter..? RE: RB20 180sx - Check out the NIStune website all prices are there: www.NIStune.com

Oh ok thanks for your reply. I cant get over how powerful this software is. Not that i'd completely know but it seems nearly more powerful than using a PFC?!? I found an answer to my own question after asking about the speed limiter, looks possible to me. Also setting the rev limiter would be handy. Anyone else had any luck using the software to adjust boost using the stock solinoid? Deren

Awesome piece of gear, i'll deffinetly be using it. I like the idea of re-mapping the original ECU and still having the fault codes for diagnostic work. Not to mention the price One question i havent found an answer for is, can you use the factory boost control solinoid to adjust boost? I was thinking seeing that your playing with the factory ECU then it might be possbile to adjust what the boost control solinoid is doing too. I also noticed that there is a spot for the consult display to tell you if its operating or not. In a BNR32 will this be possible? That would put the icing on the cake, but no big deal if it can't. An aftermarket EBC might be able to give a more linear boost curve anyway.. Also another question, would the NIStune system remove the 180km/h speed limiter? This might not be the best place to ask these questions?!? Deren

Yeah i will think about that Sorry for now i have a GTR in many pieces (100's) and lots of money to be spent on other bits first unfortunately So i didnt mean to be a time waster but i'll have to keep you posted Peter Many thanks, Deren

Very cool little display. I'd like to see the new version when its ready. Makes me want to keep my stock ECU and re-map so i can use this Love all the functions! Your a smart guy Peter.

Thats not normally on the standard front pipe. Perhaps someone once had a wide band O2 sensor in there?

Mate i think you need to read the whole thread. Nearly all of your questions have already been answered there. I will admit however that the immobiliser is a good point. Worth a look if there is one fitted.

Im sure i read they used ceramic because it handled the heat better and as mentioned is lighter. Still i guess 15-20 years of use is pretty good. Ive had 2 come apart on stock boost. BTW: while reading my post take into account i didnt realise there was more than 1 page already on the topic lol..

You mean like this: http://www.nengun.com/silk-road/diffuser-front

You guys are gunna hate me for saying this especially since im a mechanic but i have gotten away with using a 2 jaw puller twice LOL. It came off easily on mine though. If there was any hesistation i dare say it would have chipped the edge off.

Do R33's use an electronic speedo sensor? It'll either be that or the speedo head itself. Assuming it is an electronic speedo drive it will work as a pulse generator which you can test by checking its A/C voltage while you spin it or check for continuity (resistance check). If all is good there then test for the same at the other end of the wiring up at the speedo head. If you have an acceptable A/C voltage there too then it has to be the speedo head. Deren

Yeah thats pretty much right, most likely if one is firing the rest will be and you will at least be getting a splutter when you try to start it. Best not to hold the coil while your cranking it as you can get a bit of a shock from the ignition system Just rest it down next to the spark plug hole and shade the area so you can see the spark if there is one. Like i said if you need a hand im happy to help Deren