Godzilla32

Ok your in luck i found a pic in my restoration thread which shows 2 of the allusive hoses. So no need to wait for me to take pics when i get home The angled pipe on the bottom of the plenum thats not pictured goes to the AAC valve. I hope this helps. So the rear one is the pipe that has the smaller 6mm tube connected to. It that has a yellow band on it. The middle one goes to the Air Regulator. The Angled pipe goes to the bottom of AAC valve. That should help you sort out the problems, if not let me know. Only to happy to help mate. Deren

Ok, well the one marked AAC valve is as it says, for the Idle control valve. The one that says goes behind the AAC valve is for the Air Regulator which is for cold starts, the 3rd i can't confirm where it goes till i get home tomorrow. If it says water tube then its refering to the pipes that run behind the back of the head. Let me get back to you and i'll make sure we sort it all out properly. If any arent connected you will have a big leak under boost, not so much vacuum leak. Slightly under part throttle, off boost. Deren

I made a post on how to check for spark and fuel on the first page. Check that out if you like. Or if your in brissy i can help you out one day.. Lemme know mate. Deren

Forget the timing belt if everything sounds normal when your cranking it. If it was broken you would know about it! I had a feeling fouled up plugs wouldnt stop a modern day EFI engine from firing and at least running rough. The injector leak will just be that o-ring but as you mentioned i also doubt it will be the actual cause of no start, just rough running. Make sure when you refit the injectors you put some vaseline on the o-rings to spot them from getting cut. So next off you should check that you actually have spark like i previously mentioned on page one. Also think back to last time you had it running, did you do anything to the car? Anything at all.. the smallest thing you may not even take into account could be the culprit Good luck mate Deren

Your right 11 means 1.1. I wouldnt gap it down to 0.8 unless you actually need to. Your reducing the size of the spark which will affect combustion effiency. Like i said the bigger the gap you can afford to run, the better By the way they do look black, hopefully it fixes the issue. Will be interesting to see the outcome.

My plenum is out getting chrome plated currently at the moment. When i get it back i can take a pic for you if you still need it. Like Mr GeeTR mentioned there is a small fitting on the back of the balance pipe that is supposed to have a 4mm vac tube attached to it that then runs to the firewall which has a boost gauge sensor for the factory gauge. Other than that there are a few pipes that hang down underneath near the back of the plenum which are for things like: air bypass (idle control valve), vacuum supply for the brake and clutch boosters, etc. From memory there are 3 pipes.

See how you go with the 1.1mm gap for starters.

Standard its 1.1mm but if your running over 1 bar of boost sometimes it is necessary to close the gap slightly to say 0.9mm as the higher pressures can blow out the spark and cause it to miss under load/boost. By the way the bigger the gap you can afford to run the better as it gives you a bigger spark but like i mentioned sometimes its gotta be reduced to run well.

My HKS dumps came with reducers which i used to fit new sensors from nissan. What did u use to seal the reducer into the dump so it wont come undone etc?

No nothing needs to be done providing they are gapped as you require out of the box. Just put them in.

Part number for the Air mix door actuator for your VIN is: 27732-15U01 Call nissan spare parts and quote that p/n for a price and availability. Regards, Deren

I cant remember the exact plug sorry better check the FAQ on copper plugs in GTR's. Its an NGK plug. Possibly BKR6ES?

If you give me a bit more info i can get the part number but at the moment im only guessing what your talking about. Are you talking about the air mix door actuator on the heater box? If so give me your VIN number and i'll get you the p/n.

I would have to work out labour time and get back to you. On top of that will be the cost of a rebuild kit which includes essentials like new bearings and seals. If there is any damage in the box extra parts will be required so additional costs would arrise. A rebuild kit will be around $400 plus the labour. I'd say at a guess i'd probably like about $1000 for the labour. Have to see though. As for the engine removal, i'd remove the box first from below then crane the engine out as its hard to get enough angle to pull both out thru the top on them. Im using a fairly cheap stand from autobarn capable of supporting 500kg. On another note i couriered the parts to be chromed today to a place in salisbury called The Name Plate Group. He can chrome cast alloy so im looking forward to seeing the results. More soon, Deren

Im not an aussie car fan for the simple fact that my once standard 19 year old sports car could out accellerate and out handle brand new top of the line sports cars with alot more power. It all comes down to thinking outside the circle. The whole statement about the only way Holden know how to go quicker is with a bigger engine is something i have been saying for a long time. 170K for a Holden, not for me sorry.

I've had a quick look to try and understand what they refer to as the 'sub crossmember' with not much luck. When you ordered the kit it should have told you where the core is supposed to be located. I have a similar greddy kit which i will soon be fitting, but with a bit more of a custom installation. Do a search as there have been a few threads on oil cooler fitting. One of which was mine. Had a few pics. Deren

Im sorry for your loss Good to hear your over it and your onto bigger and better things Only way to be. Good luck with it mate, Deren

Adding an oil cooler also increases oil capacity which is never a bad thing. Especially when you dont have any other oil control mods to limit cylinder head lubrication or return. An oil cooler is an important part to any modified/hard driven car whether it be used for street, track or drags. Also in australia with our climate a thermostat for your oil isnt completely necessary as its rarely cold enough to need it. Good luck, Deren

Your welcome, i will always help where i think i can. I like to do my research before i just use whatever everyone else has. That was my findings. Good luck with it, Deren

The belt wont make a whine it'll be more of a squeal. The extra load on the alternator with the lights on could cause the bearings in it to load up that bit more and become noisy. To rule out a belt noise first check the tension of the belt to make sure its not loose. You should be able to turn the belt 90 degrees, but no more. Check that on its longest section between pulleys. If its tight, load up the alternator with the lights on, high beams if you want to really push it and drip some water ontot he belt while its noisey. If it goes away then its just the belt if not then its the alternator itself. If it is the belt check the condition of it and replace it if necessary.

God and i thought i was passionate! I love GTR's just as much as anyone else out there and could talk non stop about them for a few years safely but i can still appreciate other cars... Seriously get over it. Quick little civ for sure. Oh and anyone who can't understand Docanq's post must be illiterate. Have some respect. Deren

Hmm sounds interesting, keep me posted on whats going on. Good luck mate, Deren

The N1 water pump causes cavitation during low RPM use, so is not a good thing for street driving. The N1 oil pump has a layered gearset which is prone to cracking on rev limit (cracked gearset means no oil flow). It also has increased flow/pressure which is a bad thing for RB engines due to their over supply of oil to the head. As for fitting, you wont be able to remove the oil pump without dropping the sump and to drop the sump its pretty much an engine out of car job. If i were you id leave both pumps stock (replace the w/pump with a stock item) and focus more on oil control mods. Theres not a great deal you can do with the engine in the car though. Id spend my money on a oil cooler if you dont already have one. Its a must for track work and will increase your oil capacity. Deren

If you can afford to change it every 5,000km's then its the way to go.

Hey again, i was hoping it would be the same as the 32 TPS. You will need to get the factory specs for the 33 as they might be different to mine. Sorry i can't help more...