Godzilla32

When you check the TPS voltage you must have the plug connected to the TPS and the ignition ON (engine off). It should read 0.5v with the throttle closed and 4.5-5v with it fully open. Another thing to consider is there is a throttle switch built in which only senses if the throttle is open or closed. You need to adjust the TPS voltage as close to 0.5v closed but also make sure the throttle switch is reading closed. Kind of need to find a happy medium. There are 2 sets of wires coming out of the TPS. One set has two wires, it is the throttle switch, you check this with an ohm meter. From memory it should read 0 ohms resistance when its closed and infinity when its anywhere else. The other set has 3 wires, they are for the TPS. 2 of the wires will give you your voltage. Good luck, Deren

If you can hear the pump there is a good chance your getting fuel to the rail. So like you said check for spark, then you will know which area to pursue. If you have spark the next thing to consider is injector pulse. You need a noid light to see if you have injector pulse, or you can use a test light. You are basically checking if the ecu is firing the injectors. If you dont have spark then you need to check the ignition module/ignitor. It fires the coils. Deren

Hey there Geoff How did he manage to stuff the syncros doing a tune? Or was this during a drive? You want me to rebuild it for you?? I could take a look at it if thats what u mean. Always up for extra cash.

I highly doubt fouled plugs will cause a modern engine to not fire at all It would at least try to start if not start and just run rough. I got to say i will be very suprised if plugs are the cause. Best bet is to go through the usual checks. Keep in mind the battery actually only needs to drop to 9-10v during cranking (load) for the ECU not to function. So first off get a jump pack/start. If nothing... Then check for spark and fuel. Pull a plug out (check plug condition while your there) and connect it into the coil while also earth it on the head next to the spark plug hole. Easiest way to do this is to get a HT lead and connect one end to the coil where the spark plug normally goes and the other end to the top of the spark plug. This gives you more room. Get someone to crank the engine while you watch for a spark to jump the gap. To check for fuel pull the fuel supply hose off the fuel rail and turn the ignition to on without cranking. You should get a decent flow of fuel from the hose. If you dont want to attempt this and your not too familiar with engines/diagnosis then just get a mechanic to look at it for you.

The brown one is for the windshield wipers. Not sure exactly what it does but its called a windshield wiper amplifier. Possibly controls the different speeds.

The whole race? Or just the short clips? Whats the link? It should still be there shouldnt it?

I saw the red Winfield car in a showroom at Access Auto aka Hypertech in Vermont, Melbourne. Felt special getting to see it up close and personal!

Anyone know where you can buy the complete Bathurst races that the GTR's were in? I'd love to own them

Nice job Im keen to hear what you want for it? Im glad im not the only one thats ultra fussy when it comes to freshening such a great car! Enjoyed the read and pics, Deren

Got into work today for a few hours and completely disassembled the rest of the gearbox. It all went smoothly which was good for a change I've sorted out all the gearsets and wired them up together to minimise confusion during assembly. I put a few parts through the industrial hot washer at work and began the cleaning/inspection process. A couple of the gears got small disassembly chips, but they will be fine after a bit of polishing/grinding. Besides that it looks good so far, so hopefully i'll just replace all the bearings and seals. I need to find a gearbox part supplier in Brisbane that is familiar with the FS5R30A box from the R32 GTR. Can anyone help me out? Nissan quoted me a reasonable $430 for a full rebuild kit. Compared to the kit for $330 from Australian Trans in sydney thats pretty good. Im not sure whether or not the aftermarket kit from sydney is the right one either. So a local supplier would be great if anyone knows of one?? Sorry i forgot to take pics at work. Deren

Hey Nick. How are ya? Yeh its been difficult at times but im quite patient I just have to remind myself that i'll have a sweet GTR by the end of it all. I was actually reading through the thread last night. I had forgotten how much work i have put into this project. In the next few months the engine will be back in, which will allow me to pretty much complete everything else in the engine bay. That will give me plenty to do! I'd like to catch up for a beer, let me know when your here Deren

Thanks mate i will diffinetly consider it Im getting very short of funds! So i'll save up and see what i can afford.

No its all useful, and i thankyou for giving me your input By the way the color i planned to perhaps use on my gearbox casing and transfer is the same as i've used on the exhaust manifold covers etc.

Sorry i somehow missed the idea of powdercoating it. Thats always an option isnt it. Only problem is extra expense and will it match the rest of the build? Yeah, FS5R30A is the model of the gearbox. Im yet to fully inspect it. So im not sure if i will need any new syncros yet. Thanks for the input on the rebuild kit. Only reason i called those guys was because i heard they did good prices, and they do. However now im not certain they have what im after. Anyone know of a Brisbane based shop that can supply me with well priced gearbox parts to suit? If not i'll try Award. Thanks for your reply Brendan. I would be quite happy with a finish similar to that. Although i have used a darker grey metallic on my rear diff inspection cover so if i do go with the painting option i might use that color instead and then follow up with the clear coat. It would be something different anyway Now i have to decide what i want to do.

Hey Duncan, thanks for your input Maybe i should just go with the painting idea. I am thinking to strip down the transfer case now so the sand blasting is an option... I think i'll wait and see closer to the time and make my decision then. I called about a rebuild kit for the gearbox today. A place in sydney can sell me a full kit for $330. Im not sure if that was trade, as i mentioned where i worked but didnt ask specifically for a trade price. They said the FS5R30 uses the same kit as the RB30 powered Patrol. Can anyone confirm?

I was thinking to ask you that, now i dont have to Thanks for the reply Brendan. Did you use an etch primer on the alloy case before the top coat? All the alloy i've painted so far ive primed first for a little better adhesion. Im open to ideas with this one

On my GTR they are sealed bearings that unbolt from the hub. You will need to use a press to separate it from the stub axle though. I just checked and yours is the same. Deren

Thanks mate Yeah i guess im not as old as some but still feel like i should have done it a few years earlier. Anyway, today at work i finally managed to remove a sleeve that was halting the final disassembly of my gearbox. I was very pleased to get the sleeve off the counter shaft which enabled me to remove both the main shaft and counter shafts from the sandwich plate. So now i will organise a new sleeve (had to cut it) and all new seals and bearings. I planned to sand blast the gearbox case to freshen it up but to make the transfer case match it will have to get the same treatment. The problem is that i didnt really want to pull the transfer case apart. It wouldnt be a bad idea to check it all out and make sure everything is within spec but of course that will take more time. The other option is to paint the gearbox case and the transfer case without disassembling it. It would look fine but im a bit concerned about the durability of the paint. Thats the advantage to sand blasting it all. Today after work i finally fitted the turbo oil return hoses, complete with new heat insulation cloth. Theres a number of similar small jobs that im trying to get finished up. No progress pics at this stage but i will get some soon.

Very impressive. Well done to Haltech and all involved. I'll be saving for sometime

Im quite interested. I will give you a call about them. Deren

Item: PPI 2150 car amplifier Condition: Excellent, like new Price: $450 Location: Melbourne Contact: PM or Call 0402829091 ONLY Comments: This is a very powerful amp. Its 2 x 150WRMS but if bridged into 1ohm mono it is rated at 600WRMS. Im told its closer to 700WRMS. It is internally fan cooled through a special ducting system. I have the original box and users manual which includes all specs and wiring diagrams. Deren

I just used genuine. No hassle

Hehe yeah poor ole Sigma. Thanks for the birthday wishes Gotta pay off some of my credit card so i wont be doing much work to the GTR in the next couple of weeks unfortunately Keep you all posted.

Aww shucks, thanks guys Much appreciated as always. Im curious to know whats being said now...hehe

Haha yeah he loves watching me working on it. Giggles and smiles at me Bet your kids love the 'Silv'