Godzilla32

Deffinetly the compressor side thats come apart?? Thats uncommon. Normally its the turbine wheel that comes to pieces. You will most likely find the bits on the inlet side of your intercooler like you mentioned, as its the first restriction. Hopefully none will have gone into your engine. If infact its the turbine wheel thats come apart, that will be found in front of the CAT

Thanks mate, yeah i know its worth it Just hard to wait this long. Tonight i picked up my rebuilt throttle bodies and had a good chat to Will at JHH. Nice guy. I hope they provide me with a nice, smooth, low idle! Similar to how it was before i messed around with them.. lol

Yeah, im not sure if i wanna go the top side mount on the strut tower now Without sounding arrogant, my engine bay is immaculate so im putting quite a bit of thought into this filter location. Most likely it'll go down on the chassis rail just to be safe Thanks for your input guys.

Anyone else got any input?

Yeah same as mine but i have the updated version with the bookmarks that make it much easier to find what your looking for. Is there no place where it can be downloaded from off the forums?

All good, thanks for the confirmation Most people seem to forget that part! Poor subie

Maybe i didnt word that as well as i could have but im glad you understood me Jarrod. Its pretty important to me that i dont make an mess at all, as ive meticulously rebuilt this entire car, kinda wanna keep it clean lol If i mount it low its not a problem as i will be dropping the oil from it straight into the oil drain, a few turns off and the oil just trickles out. Like on any car with the filter mounted sideways (IE: commodores). However being at the bottom there is nothing for the oil to go on anyway That was the idea behind that.. Then i got to thinking about those Toyota 5SFE engines and how everytime i do a oil change on them the oil filter is empty once i remove it. I was hoping that it may be the same having the filter up that way on the strut tower..

Hey guys, i need some info please. For all you guys that have the upside down remote oil filter bolted to the drivers side strut tower, does oil go everywhere when you unscrew the filter? Or is the filter empty when you unscrew it and make no mess? I ask this because im trying to decide where to bolt my remote filter mount. I was planning to attach it to the chassis rail on that side but the area is quite 'busy' and its looking like it will be tricky. So if its a nice and clean filter change even when its upside down on the strut tower i will just go with the normal way of bolting it there. Many thanks in advance, Deren

You'll find the majority of them will break when you pull it apart anyway If they have already been done and there is still a problem, more than likely its due to bad preparation before fitting the new gaskets last time. The surface MUST be spotless or else you will find that it will still leak. If you need anymore help doing the work, PM me and i can answer any other questions you might have Deren

I downloaded mine off the forums here. Do a search if you havent already and see what comes up

My bet is on the fuel system. If there were no changes made to the mapping in the computer its about the only thing that could cause that. If that gauge reads like a master gauge would (it should) then thats most likely going to be the problem. Just make sure it does that even after you just switch the ignition on and the pump primes then you turn it off without starting.. Deren

R32 GTR's require a 30% coolant concentration if you do mix it yourself

Hey Brendan, we are 2 of a kind it seems. I couldnt afford to coat anything with heat proof finish unfortunately. As it is im about 1 million billion dollars over budget. No wait...whats a budget? Oh yes, that figure i once had in mind of spending.. Im trying not to leave anything out that i can't do later but within reason. This project has gone from a accident repair and nice paintjob to a fully blown ground up rebuild. If i don't draw a line on some areas i will never get it done on my wage. Im currently working on my external oil return made up with genuine Earl's braided perform-o-flex hose, and swivel-seal fittings. Im also organising chrome plating of the inlet plenum and the twin turbo pipe. Ive kept an eye on your Silv blog. I like what you have done, very tasteful

Planning to pick up the rebuilt throttle bodies this week coming after work one day. This will hopefully be one of the last bigger spends that i will have to make on the engine. I have added some updated pics of the engine since properly fitting all the coolant and vacuum pipes to the turbo side of the engine. Its now complete minus the silicone tubing and the chrome plated twin turbo pipe and the one that feeds it off the rear turbo. On another note who can tell me if the Wurth thread tape will hold up against the high temps seen on the o2 sensor adapter threads?? It melts instantly with a flame but they will only really be subjected to high temps not direct flame. Im worried about this so can someone help me out? Deren

At a guess, the fuel may be draining back to the tank while its switched off. Next time you start it try giving it plenty of time to prime the fuel system before you crank it and see if this makes any difference. Could be a check valve fault, or a split hose, or loose hose, really any number of things. However if it has only been doing it since the new parts were added i would look at them first Check you have good fuel pressure during pump operation and after the ignition is switched off. It should hold pressure for quite awhile. Good luck, Deren

Its a tricky job working around the plenum, throttle bodies, inlet manifold with the engine in the car but by no means impossible. I have done it all about 4-5 times now and its pretty easy when you know what your doing and have the right tools. Pity im not im Melbourne anymore! I could do it for you guys at a good price Basically you have 6 throttle body gaskets that can leak and one long inlet manifold gasket that can leak on that side of the engine. Give the aerostart a go as it will narrow down your area in which the problem is then you can save time and money.

Yes it is available, give me your vin and i will give you the part number.

The big end knocks i have heard have all gone away after a few seconds of running, after they get enough oil pressure to take up the extra gap of the worn out bearing. If its there the whole time its prolly more a lifter noise like you said as i have heard some pretty bad knocking from either unbled lifters (hydraulic like yours) or just worn out ones. Can i ask why you bought an engine with stuffed rings? It'll need a hone at the least...

The battery light will come on when there is a charging fault, 16 volts is too high. It should be between 13.8 and 14.2 at idle off the back of the alternator. If it is infact charging at 16v then the regulator int he alternator must not be operating correctly. Get your multimeter and test off the back of the alternator on the main power wire and earth the other lead with the engine running. The light may be coming on because its over charging?

Brake fluid is used as an old trick to breathe some life back into old hard seals. It was used in automatic transmissions which also use ATF with the same purpose of helping soften old hard o-rings. As the o-rings are what prevents/directs the ATF through the transfer case / auto transmission, when they go hard they leak fluid past. However it is never used alone, only as an additive to the correct ATF. These days there are specially formulated additives to do the same job.

Uni-coils. Yeah thats an idea if it comes to that. I think you mis-understood me. I am getting Samco radiator hoses in a proper kit that are made to fit like OEM. Aswell as a heater hose kit. The ones i will be making up will be just the 9.5mm coolant hoses that run across the front of the timing cover and there is one that runs around the right side rear corner of the cylinder head. I'll probably use the same stuff for the vacuum supply hoses for the brake and clutch boosters if it will look ok. The Samco products are quite well priced which i was pleased to find

I have got onto a Samco distributor that can supply me with a heater hose set and radiator hose set. They also have every other silicone hose known to man. All the hoses that i need to replicate are laid out and i think the soft silicone tube will make the bends. I'll keep you all posted with updates. Next step, as i think i already mentioned, will be picking up the throttle bodies. I'll try to get that done in the next couple of weeks

Ok i was aware of their heater hose sets as i have one of them lined up but i wasnt sure they had a complete set with every single little hose lol. If i do it i wanna replace every one of the vacuum and coolant ones. I reckon it'll be alot cheaper to buy lengths of straight tubing and just cut it to size.

Hey everyone, this weekend ive fitted a few more things to the turbo side of the engine. A few parts are temporarily fitted but im very happy with the visual results Still plenty of shiney stuff to come though. Im having the 'twin turbo' pipe smoothed off and chrome plated as well as the inlet plenum. I thnk it will add the finishing touch to the 'wow' factor. The other option was to go with the same satin black like i have used on lots of other parts. I think this would look good also, as it would give it that tough look like the exterior. As the covers are the same silver and the plenum and twin turbo pipe would be dark like the wheels. So the engine is getting close to completion. I plan to pick up the rebuilt throttle bodies in the next couple of weeks. While im there i will get the hole in the side of the sump opened up a little more as the fitting for the external oil return is a bit too tight in there and wont screw in far enough. The fitting is a tampered thread as well as the tapped hole in the sump. As you can see in the rear shot i have managed to negotiate a route for the external oil return on the back of the head. It took some gentle persuasion but i managed to get all the original pipes where i needed them. I have just ordered some proper -10 hose restraint clamps to keep the braided hose secure and out of the way. Im currently trying to track down some silicone tubing to replace all the original black rubber coolant and vacuum tubing. I can get some of the sizes but still yet to find all of the ones i need. Anyone know any really good places to buy high quality silicone tubing? I'll need 4mm, 6mm, 8mm, and what looks like approximately 9-10mm tubing.

It will be the one-way valve that supplies the brake booster with vacuum. Normally it will only let air into the booster but if it fails, when you press the brake pedal the diaphram in the booster is actually pushing un-metered air back into the inlet manifold. The situation is leaning out the mixture and causing a slight rpm rise and the popping. If its the same as the 32 its located in a bracket on the master cylinder. Take it off and check if you can blow air (with your mouth) through either way. it will be marked as to which way its supposed to flow. PM me if you need a pic. Deren