Godzilla32

Yeah i think so but ive already bought new O2 sensors to suit 32.

I'd be getting a timing light for starters, then setting it to manufacterers specs. See how that goes. Its very inaccurate moving it and going on measurement. The only way you can be sure you are making accurate adjustments is by checking the balancer marks with a timing light. In theory the ECU will read the knock sensors signal and just retard timing if it detects too much knock anyway. You can't just go picking and choosing your base ignition timing. Get it tuned properly with correct mapping rather than mucking around with base timing.

Hey, Im trying to decide what to use. The HKS extension kit (stainless split dumps) came with adapters that first screw into the dump pipe itself then the O2 sensor screws into them. What type of sealant should i use to stop exhaust leaks up the thread and stop the thing from coming loose over time? There was no other form of locking washer, etc supplied. It has to be sensor safe, so i looked at the sensor safe Loctite 'grey maxx' silicone and its only rated to 200 degree's, so thats not nearly high enough. Im not 100 percent sure how hot the dump pipes will get but after seeing them glowing white, id say pretty darn hot on occasions! I've got some teflon thread tape that i was told to use by my boss but im not sure if it'll handle the heat?!? Deren

Thanks Nick! Lets hope not too much of a change.. I will try to slot the core in behind the intercooler if it will fit with everything else there. I think that left side duct is going to require too much of that expensive braided hose anyway lol.. I'll install the oil cooler once the engine is in and i have an idea what i have to work with.

Yeah quite possibly. My car also has the receiver dryer on the right side but i was hoping to sneak it in there. Have to wait and see

Yeah. Alot of people are actually confused about that electric fan on the front of the radiator support. Its not actually an A/C fan. Its called a sub-cooling fan and is wired to a thermo switch on the right hand bottom corner of the radiator (green and orange plug) and is set to cut in at 90 degree's. Alot of people wire it to cut in with A/C operation but out of the factory they do not. Just to clear that up I had planned to mount the core on the other side in front of the p/s cooler. Then again i heard that Duncan has issues with p/s fluid boiling as it is, so maybe thats a bad idea as it would get even less cool air flow then. I will inspect what room i have once i get more fitted back into the car. I havent been able to put anything else on as it will extend the front of the car and stop me from closing the garage door! As it is its about 1 cm from the door. So no one crash into my garage door!! I was planning to fit an ATI balancer which i could get for $300 but seeing as its only going to be beneficial with big power and when i hit the rev limiter, I'll leave it and do it later if need be. I can't afford to do anything i dont have to right now. Its been over 2 and a half years since i drove this car and i am getting itchy to hear it running!

I thought it was ok to over fill the oil upto the hump for track days etc? Or is that only in reference to RB26's?

Haha i know As will i, and this would usually drive me mad but i didnt want to add to the smell of burning paint (even if it is special heat paint) there will be enough of that as it is! So that was why i didnt paint them. Poor excuse i know... On another note i was looking at a tough 32 GTR at Mark Jacobsens workshop the other day. He had his oil cooler core mounted behind the intercooler in that gap you can look down around the bonnet latch area. Im thinking to adopt this idea as i can't fit the core on the right side behind the ducts due to the blow off valves and i think its too much piping to mount it behind left side duct. What do you all think??

No, you cant see them anyway. I have painted heat shields so that will cover up the exhaust manifolds.

Thanks mate, they are both doing well. Sounds like a good idea that you have with the block on the back of the head. Keep me posted. Deren

Yeah i had a baby boy about 5 months ago! I thought you knew. Anyway, here are some pics of what im upto at the moment. I removed the oil feed lines from the turbo to the block to give them another flush out and now i need more new copper washers so they are missing at the moment. You can see the fitting in the back of the head and the lines that aren't fitting anymore.

Here are 3 pics that should help you to work out where it goes.. Sorry about the quality Having it unplugged will cause the car to run badly as its a vacuum leak under idle and when you get positive pressure (boost) in the intake manifold you will get a boost leak. Its actually charcoal canister purge line. The other little one is a vacuum signal line that actuates the diaphram and lets the purged vapours into the inlet manifold.

Hey mate, The one off the fitting on the top of the front diff should go to a u-shaped pipe thats bolted to the underside of the plenum. It is just a breather so dont be too concerned about that one. If you dont have a u-shaped pipe on the underside of the plenum to attach it to then just cable tie it up to its higher than the diff. The other one that is next to the one that goes off the the blow off valves should be attached to a pipe that runs behind the timing belt backing plate and through to the otherside where a hose connects it to the charcoal cannister. If you still can't find the pipes PM me and i'll get a pic for you Deren

Yeah i saw them but that looks to me like it will create even less clearance. Besides there is already a tapped plug there now anyway.

Your a true nice guy Mark! I couldnt ask that though. Its my fault ive turned this into a huge job so its my money thats gotta get it finished Thanks for the offer though. I was just at work picking up everything i will need to hopefully complete the front diff today and finally refit the diff/sump to the engine this weekend. I'll keep you guys posted over the weekend and promise i'll get some new pics of it all. Im still struggling with my external oil return on the back of the head. I've currently got a 90 degree elbow screwed in there but it makes it impossible to fit the stock pipes that run back there. I need a tighter, more slimline fitting. Its gotta be a neat 90 degree -10 fitting with a male 1/2 inch NPT thread. I'll have to check the Earls catalogue again. I was hoping to find one online, but no such luck.

N1 oil pumps suck. So for starters i'd throw it out and use the stock one over that. They have layered gearsets which are more prone to cracking from vibration during such things as hitting the rev limit. To answer your question all i suggest to do is use some grease to lubricate the gearset. These pumps have no problem priming so the old vaseline trick isnt necessary. As mentioned remove the spark plugs and unplug the ignition module and wind the engine over until you get good oil pressure then put the plus in and reconnect the ignition module and fire it up.

Thanks for that. Im really glad people are enjoying reading it all. It makes it worthwhile! I have no batteries for the digital camera so thats why still no pics. I plan to do some serious work on the engine this weekend though so i'll make sure to get plenty during and once im done. Deren

I just told a guy how to adjust an R32 handbrake. Same thing. Do a search in the gen maintenance section or scroll back a couple of pages.

Nice work Geoff! I ended up going into work yesterday after making the post and cleaning the joins up on the dump pipes. I finished it with some emery for a nice smooth surface. Feels awesome now. I fitted it all yesterday but am yet to get pics. Will probably post tonight or tomorrow.

Ok, first things first. I'd love to have some matching manifolds but i really can't afford them and wasnt sure there was a huge amount of improvement to be made. However just out of curiousity, how much are they worth to you? The wastegate join was pretty good, a bit of an edge which i was going grind but last night in all the excitement i bolted them up and kind of forgot. Its only on where the wastegate pipe joins back onto the main pipe. Will it make much of a difference? Who thinks its ok to reuse the metal gaskets for the dumps if i did remove them for grinding? Everyone is welcome to have a look at the car. It will most likely eventually return to melbourne with me if/when i move back there.

I ordered the parts from Japan on the 24th of march. The money cleared in their account on the 26th and they sent the parts on the 29th and i received them on the 1st of April! I couldnt believe how fast it was. Having the parts in stock would have helped i guess So tonight i bolted up the new HKS extension kit (split stainless dump pipes). They are top quality as you would expect from HKS. When i first received the HKS pipes i noticed the kit includes special dividers. As i mentioned the dump pipes are split into 2 pipes, one for the main gas flow out of the turbine wheel and another smaller one for the bypassed gas out of the wastegate flap. The dividers are designed to be bolted onto the inside of dump pipe flange, and they completely block the turbine wheel from the wastegate flap, preventing either gas flow from interferring with the other. However the newly designed Garrett turbos have a similar built in divider, but doesnt completely block the turbine wheel from the wastegate flap. It looks to serve the same purpose. At first i wasnt sure if i should remove the cast divider in the exhaust housings and use the supplied dividers or vice versa. I kind of figured that a completely separate passage for either gas flow would be better. In saying that, since talking to a few guys in 'the know' they have all said just to use the built in dividers. I think the kit is more designed to be used on the stock turbos which have no divider and would benefit more from the bolt on ones. So tonight i went ahead bolting up the pipes to the back of the turbos. Tomorrow i will properly fit the turbos and pretty much everything else on the turbo side of the engine. I have included a few photos of the new parts but will have many more tomorrow after i fit everything up. Its going to look insane!

Ive since asked around a couple of places and they say the casting in the housing on the new garrett turbos is what garrett found worked best. Still not 100% sure if its ideal when you are using a split dump pipe? Apparently there is little advantage to machining out the cast divider and replacing it with the ones supplied with the HKS kit. Can anyone else confirm this?

Someone must have fitted these pipes recently...

Hey everyone This is a very nice kit from HKS. However there is one thing im not 100% sure on which path to take. The kit comes complete with everything you need to install the new dump pipes which is great. In saying that, they include special dividers that are mean't to bolt onto the new dumps themselves to separate exhaust flow from the turbine wheel and the wastegate flap. I understand that will make the most of the split pipes. The new Garrett 2860r-5 (707160-5005) turbos that i bought include a kind of 3/4 length divider built into the turbine housing. Whereas the stock turbos have nothing built in. So is there any advantage to grinding the housing to fit the HKS dividers supplied with the kit? Or will the dividers that are cast into the turbine housings do just as good job? The only reason im really asking is because the ones cast into the housings are like i said kind of 3/4 of the length of the HKS ones. Check out the pics and you will see what i mean. Many thanks in advance guys Deren

Its easy to get to so just re-use the washer and if (most likely wont) it leaks then you can replace it at a later time. Im sure it would only be a couple of bucks from Nissan. Everyone makes Nissan out to be rip off merchants but i can guarantee i have bought more parts from Nissan than anyone else here in my ground up build. I have found that common things can be bought for quite cheap. Sometimes you get a nice surprise and others i'll have to admit you get a nasty shock. However in my mind unless its performance aftermarket gear, nothing beats genuine for quality.