Godzilla32

Yeah i knew you were talking about an aftermarket core, i was just joking about the stock one Oh well i guess its better than not having one stock at all like alot of cars.

Only looks stock if you got an R34 as they were the only one to come with an unpainted plenum. If you do decide to paint it make sure you first strip the old paint off as it has a bad tendency to flake off. You may have noticed I myself have just made the decision to smooth the cast finish and either professionally polish or chrome plate it for less hassle. I reckon the polished finish looks good but will take more work to keep it that way. At this stage im tending to lean towards chrome plating. Also going to get the twin turbo pipe and the charge air pipe off the rear turbo chromed for a more balanced look. Originally i had planned to paint it all the same Sparkling silver metallic like the car but instead just went with the paint on the cam covers, coil cover, and timing covers.

I didnt know that p/s fluid got that hot during track work. Interesting. So the little stock cooler doesnt quite cut it huh How long does it take to get hot enough to boil with the stock setup?

Could be any number of things. A few guesses would be: Factory fog lights if there is another one hidden. Ambient air temp sensor. Horn/s. A/C pressure switch that is normally located on the receiver dryer on them.

I'd say the Rb25 block is the same as the RB26 block so the drain plugs are on the right side of the engine (drivers side). I cant guarantee you will be able to get to them though. If not dont worry too much just make sure you back flusht he radiator and flush the whole system including the heater core. I have personally written up a few threads on good techniques of how to properly flush the cooling system so hopefully you found them. Jack the front of the car off the cross member. Its the very solid looking black piece of steel that runs accross the beneath the engine. Deren

Get a thread gauge. Be either 1.25 or 1.5

Hot oil will become thinner and will be more likely to leak out if the leak is small enough. This is what id be doing. Clean down the entire area with degreaser and make sure you can see the area well, IE: get a light if you need to. Start up the engine and get someone to load up the steering IE: full lock and watch for leaks. That will help you identify where the leak is and then you can either replug the banjo fitting properly or get the pump rebuilt as it may just be a leaking pump seal. Good luck

Id be checking the sandwiched heat exchanger. That workshop is bullshit! I'd be absolutely fuming!

One answer...Master fuel gauge! Hook it up and look for about 250-300Kpa of pressure and about 50 more when you disconnect the vacuum supply line to the regulator. That will confirm whether or not either of your suspected parts are infact problems.

LOL at Nick Could be alot of things. Goes crazy after 4500 rpm is a bit of a general statement. If its miss firing then look at coil packs for hairline craking (very common on RB25). Or check plug condition and gap. If its only running 8 psi then a gap of around 1.0-1.1mm should be fine without causing a miss. If its running too rich then maybe check out your AFM, sometimes they will test out ok but can still be faulty, so on occassions its just easier to try another known working one. Cleaning the AFM shouldnt be necessary as Nissan's use a 'hot wire' AFM which as the name suggests uses a heated element to sense air flow. The more airflow, the less heated the element becomes resulting in less resistance. More heat, more resistance. Thats how the ECU reads what the AFM is passing. Anyway when they are turned on they heat up burning off most contaminants. They will commonly cause back firing from over fuelling and and misjudged mixture control if not operating correctly. An O2 sensor is in the exhaust so anything running through the intake pipes has deffinetly not seen the O2 sensor. I think your thinking about the AFM. its true though that will cause the unmetered air effect and can screw up the mixture. A tune on a dyno is useless unless you have some form of tuneability in the ECU whether its a piggy back system or a full computer swap, etc Resetting the ECU will only wipe trouble codes that could help you fix the problem, it can temporarily fix the issue but its not normally a permanent fix. Theres no reason to run retarded ignition timing on a rebuilt engine. Should just be run at optimum settings. So check all of the above: Plug condition and gap (1.0-1.1mm) Coils for hair line cracks AFM for correct output voltage Look for any form of vacuum leaks. You can use aero start to identify if and where the leak is by spraying it around the hoses. The revs will change if there is a leak Perhaps check the TPS also for correct output voltage. Should be 0.5 at closed throttle and 4.5-5v at full throttle. In checking the TPS also make sure the Idle switch that is built into it is reading closed when its closed and vice versa. Check for correctly adjusted ignition timing. But honestly my guess will be a miss fire caused by either plugs or coil packs. The list goes on, EFI diagnosis is no easy task. Good luck

Or you could just use an engine prop from the top to hold the engine while you remove the crossmember etc.

Thats not the part number. To get that you have to do a p/number search. Like this.. But they are they appear to be the same part

Ideally you should back off the cable adjustment under the lever in the car first. Then use a flat blade screw driver to click up the hand brake shoes that run inside the 'hat' of the rear brake rotors. Adjust them up until they lock then back them off about 2-3 clicks so they are lightly dragging. Rotating the wheel adjustor one way will increase drag eventually locking it and rotating it the other way will back them off. Deren

It was a bit tricky to get out, hoist helps a bit I didnt pay for it so unfortunately i couldnt tell you but i wouldnt imagine it would be anymore than 50-100 bucks at the most.

Neither, they are a very stiff chassis. You can actually lift 3 wheels off the ground just by jacking one corner at the front! Id say it will be worn out suspension bushes. Check the castor rod buses at the front. Could be any though.. Deren

I had one of them leak in a 32 at work. You can get it quite cheapely repaired from places like Enzed etc Braided line would be a waste of time and money in my opinion. The rest of the system will still be original. Go with the normal repair or second hand.

Decided not to sell the front pipes. All other parts listed are still available.

The brushes were a bit tricky to get into place but once i worked out the best way it was all pretty smooth sailing Was all quite good fun. Like i said i didnt actually replace anything just inspected it for wear, painted it up bit by bit and re-assembled. Im actually slowly running out of parts to clean up now. Which is a bit of a relief. Now there is just more hard earned cash to spend! I'll tally it all up once im done to make everyone laugh at me for wasting so much money

Not a huge part but a very important one none the less! I stripped it down mainly to give it a good clean out as my old clutch was fairly well worn and there was quite a bit of clutch dust in the bell housing so i figured i'd find more in the starter motor. Sure enough it was in need of one of my very pedantic clean up jobs I recently placed an order for the HKS extension pipes and Nismo engine and transmission mounts so im just at a bit of a stand still till they arrive...Or i bite the bullet and make the final adjustments to the front diff so the whole thing (sump) can go back on the engine!

A possible lead There you go mate.. Good luck with the search for the truth!

No worries, but clearly not everyone is listening.

Forget the seats! LOL Get back to the guys reason for posting!

Most likely will be one of those hoses. Probably the one that only has a spring clamp and not a proper python style clamp. If its not a hose then its a welsch plug which is even less fun! Good luck.

Check power steer pump belt tension. With the engine running, standing still, try putting it on full lock and see if it makes any noise. By the way check the power steer fluid with the engine running.

Tottally aggree.