Godzilla32

Thats a weird one. Id say its deffinetly a starter issue but the way a starter works is the pull in solinoid circuit is powered up to engage the starter gear then at the same time once its pulled in it hits the bridge plate which actually conducts the high amperage current to the start motor itself. So basically what im saying is if the starter is running it means the pull in solinoid has to be working cuz its bridging the power to fire up the motor. Perhaps the gear mechanism itself is faulty and its not engaging all the time. By the way Jmaac, you have obviously never removed and replaced a starter on a GTR...LOL its alot easier said than done. Very tricky to get onto the bolts.

Id say your close to being on the money. I have had a fair bit of experience with these GTR throttles There are seals on the shafts but they are near impossible to source and they dont do much in the way of sealing anyway as the throttle shafts run on sealed bearings which are in behind where the seals are. The leak is more likely to be coming from the paper gaskets between the plenum and the throttles or between the inlet manifold and the throttles. Its a fairly involved job to remove the plenum and throttles especially if you havent done it before. If your in brissy i can lend a hand. Another tip i can suggest is to get a can of aero start or the like and spray little bits around where you think it may be leaking. The revs will change if there is a leak there. Deren

Comes up as build date 08/89 with the model code KBNR32RXFSLMZG which is identical to my GTR. There should be some sort of badging on it whether it be inside the engine bay or on the exterior to detail if its anything different.

PM me your VIN and i can check it on FAST software

Balance tube for what exactly??

If its the rack leaking, they have an internal seal at either end of the shaft which prevents oil from escaping the rack itself. They will most likely be hard and leaking. The boots are just dust covers to stop anything from going into the internals of the rack. Once again thats if its the rack thats actually leaking. At a guess id say that would be it Pics to confirm.

Rebuild it. Depends what it actually needs but its not too expensive if its just in need of brushes and perhaps some new bearings. Get it checked out and quoted on before you go buying another alternator possibly about to let go. I think buying second hand parts that are prone to wear is kind of pointless even if you do save a few dollars. Int he near future you will most likely be replacing it again anyway.

Prolly closed up the plug gap or cracked the porselian.

The throttle closed sensor is what is also built into the TPS. It should read 0 ohms when the throttle is closed and infinity when its anything but closed. Your TPS voltage is about right so try to stay near .5v closed and 4.5-5v full throttle. I have my doubts it will be that if your chewing fuel also. It would just stuff your idle up. More inclined to think its the Air reg (cold start). Get it off and check its clean and all assembled properly.

Only reaspn for pump failure is the gearset cracks in the pump, nothing to do with lack of flow. As previously mentioned more flow is actually worse as the problem is oil control in the RB's. With too much oil being delivered to the head and under high G-forces it just adds to the problem of oil starvation. Check the oil control thread if your serious about building a tough RB. Otherwise leave those bits stock. Its kinda all or nothing in some ways.

Its getting there, but i doubt much has changed since you saw it. I couldnt justify spending that much money on the CES pipes, as nice as they were. So im waiting to get this new order which will include the HKS dumps so that will allow me to fit the turbos properly and pretty much complete that side of the engine.

Thanks mate, thats the plan. I was hoping not to ever see one better. I'd be pretty suprised to see one more throughly done. I'll be adding more pics soon. I have decided to order the HKS Extension kit and with it i'll also be getting new Nismo engine and trans mount in the next few weeks.

All you need to do is grab either a screw driver or a piece of small hose (like vaccum hose) and put one end on an injector and one end on your ear and see if the ticking is coming from the injectors...If it sounds in time with the noise you can hear with your other ear then you've found the source. When you rev the engine from under the bonnet if the noise goes away when you let go of the throttle then its the injectors as they will cut out on decelleration. Its true they are quite loud but it could also very easily be your hydraulic lifters (being RB25) stuck or just lost their tension. If it is the lifters you can try trunning some lifter free up. It works quite well unless they are completely finished. Good luck, Deren

Thanks for that Bunta! I would really appreciate it. I can get them for $1030 delivered or i can get the HKS extension kit ( stainless split dump pipes conventional length) for $575. Of course later i would get some matching stainless front pipes, but at least it would save some money till then and enable me to get the car up and running a little sooner. Alternatively i can get the Tomei ones for a similar price. What is everyones opinions? PS: One thing to add would be that the HKS kit comes complete with every gasket, copper washer, etc necessary for fitment.. Quite good value considering that. Deren

Interesting, once again thanks for your help Duncan I have seen the HKS stainless dump pipe 'extensions' If you havent seen them they are basically just a conventional dump pipe but with the wastegate pipe on the outside then they join before the front pipe flange. I can get them quite cheap from Japan so im thinking maybe to go that option. What do you think? Deren

I see, thats interesting. Is it possible to do without scratching the body or anything? Are they worth the hassle over using aftermarket high flow conventional items? Thanks for your help

Ive seen them but wasent sure if they include the dump pipe section that runs off the back of the turbo? Can you confirm they do? Many thanks, Deren

Last night i fitted the oil and water feed lines onto the new turbos. They have been cleaned out throughly, especially the oil feed. It took some gentle persuasion to get it all to bolt up. I was a little worried at first that i wouldnt be able to get it to fit but its all good Yesterday at work i tensioned the pinion nut up on the front diff with the new bearings etc fitted. I havent had much experience in this area yet. The pinion is a little stiff to turn now and now that the crown wheel is installed there is a tiny bit of a knock when you rock the crown wheel back and forth...Seems to be just the gap between the crown wheel teeth and the pinion teeth. Is this normal? I have reused the original shims as i havent changed anything besides the bearings and seals. Im yet to run some bearing blue to check for correct meshing... Does anyone know for sure if thats normal? Deren

Need to buy in the next few weeks! Please contact me if you have a pair!

If i dont find a cheap 2nd hand pair of dumps i will most likely get the Tomei ones i mentioned..

Yes, yes they are Buy me some? I'll be ya best friend

Its just a bleed valve so you pipe it in between your wastegate vacuum signal line and your compressor outlet or outlet pipe. Looks to be just a single stage adjustable bleed valve. What is written on the 2 fittings? Or wat are they called in the manual.

LOL at Brendan...Umm i was going to but i figured you cant see them at all once the heat shields and everything else is in place anyway. Ive used Tomei metal gaskets throughout and i have already torqued the exhaust manifolds so they will most likely stay as they are. I really cant be sure how long the rest of the build will take. All i can say is not too much longer i hope. Feel free to give me call and drop over whenever. Im on holidays until next week.

I noticed you did that on your silvia. I was thinking about it but was told that its not as worthwhile coating the cast manifolds as they retain alot of the heat anyway. The extra expense is something i can do without too. Im getting very itchy to have it finished as im sure you can imagine!

Think im gunna stick with the stock manifolds but i definetly want some new dump pipes. I was in love with the CES pipes pictured I had thought they were only $700 in stainless. When i rang up they are actually $1800 and thats trade price! Unfortunately im going to have to draw a line there I can't justify spending so much money on that part, as good as they might be. I can get new Tomei ones from Japan for $630 delivered. So thats another option. Ideally id like to pick up some quality dump pipes 2nd hand. Anyone got any they dont need? I have got the covers all painted up and back home so ive added pictures of them. The timing covers are fitted but the cam and plug covers are just dummy fitted at this stage. Im going to get one more new cam cover gasket as last time i had the car apart i only replaced the one that was leaking. I also need to figure out what im going to use for the cam cover baffle material. Ive been told fuel cell foam, where do i get that from? Deren