Godzilla32

Ive dummy fitted up the Garretts. They look sweet

Need to get a pair of good quality dump pipes for my R32 GTR. Better yet if you have Trust or CES long pipes that run from the turbos to the CAT (or similar), that would be even better. Please PM or Call 0402 829 091 Thanks, Deren

What can i say, thanks heaps for the help dude! Im worried mine wont fit there like that cuz of the twin bov's that are there? I'll go take a look in a minute. Many thanks, Deren

I was looking at the long ones and even in stainless steel they were about $750 RRP. Hoping for cheaper through trade at work. Glad to hear about the quality

Hey mate! Turbos arrived a couple of days ago. I ended up buying them off Chris Whittaker at MTQ Salibury here in Brisbane. I throughly recommend giving him a call if you need to purchase some new turbos as he was excellent to deal with and gave me by far the cheapest price! I have added some new pics of the turbos including new vs old. Shows the difference quite well. Before i fit the new turbos i will need to save up (now broke) for the stainless CES long front/dump pipes i have had my eye on As i will need to fit the first section to the back of the turbines before mounting them to the manifolds etc. Not much has been done to my GTR as i have been getting my daily (shitter) ready for the road. Its a 87 mitsubishi magna TN. Its hard to believe that these two cars were designed in the same era! I guess one being worth over 100 grand and the other being a run of the mill family car would have something to do with it. Since i took the GTR off the road (2+ years) i have had no car to drive so it will be nice to have a car to run around in! Deren

Im in desperate need of a complete or damaged R32 engine wiring harness. I just need the blue air regulator plug on it. Its the only plug thats blue on that harness. Please contact me if you have one and wish to sell it! Deren 0402 829 091

Its actually just up underneath the part where the drivers legs go. You can unplug it without much trouble.

Im getting a pair of Garrett 707160-5005 turbos this week coming! That will be exciting. This weekend i purchased a 2nd hand Trust oil cooler and filter relocator locally in Brisbane off 17SOK. Thanks to him for that. I need some help with the proper mounting of the core. Im not sure where exactly its meant to go behind the right hand duct. Ive got one friend getting me pics but if anyone else has one setup like that id appreciate a few more pics. Deren

Check the condition of the belt. Look for cracks and hard ribs. As previously mentioned, check the tension. On the longest section of the belt you should only just be able to turn it 90 degrees (sideways). There is a big washer on the front of the tensioner for the A/C belt so that wont turn, but check that the actual pulley is spinning. Good luck with it mate, Deren

Putting it there causes just as much mess when you go to change it thats why im going to be mounting it down on the chassis rail on its side so from below you can unscrew the filter and it drains directly into your drain tray, nothing else

The ultimate streetable turbos. Good for 700hp with excellent response!

Item: x2 Garrett 2860r-5 turbos (707160-5005) Age: Brand new, still in packaging Price: $2500 To Fit: GTR Location: Brisbane Contact: PM me Comments: Come complete with uprated 15psi actuators and .64 rear exhaust housings.

Most likely due to blow by gasses. Combustion gases leak past the rings and get into the sump. Thats the whole reason for having positive crankcase ventilation (PCV). To remove those gases from the sump. If they build up too much is can become dangerous. Check that your PCV valve, located on the inlet manifold balance tube, isnt blocked, with the engine off shake the valve to make sure it rattles, this indicates its not jammed. Also check it has a strong vacuum there when the engine is running. PS: The only time people use mineral oil in import engines is to run them in. Synthetic oil isnt made from crude oil. Deren

Just get yourself some sort of solvent like shellite and flush out the core and lines. After you do that blow it out with compressed air. The beauty of shellite is that it evaporates completely so your not left with anything inside the core.

Just go to an A/C specialist to have you current compressor rebuilt. I've heard its about $300. Thats what id be doing if i had problems with mine.

Did have but sold sorry.

Front pipes added.

Ok. Thing is, its all still shimmed as it was before and nothing much has changed, just all new seals and bearings. Will it need to be re-shimmed? I was hoping just to check the teeth contact areas and if they were still ok to put it back together like that. Another thing, I didnt mark the pinion companion flange before removing it from the pinion shaft. Later i realised i should have, however it doesnt mention to do that in the manual and it normally would if at all necessary. Do you think it needs to be in a special way? Its not a master spline so there is many different ways it can be put it. What do i do?

Parts still for sale.

Cheers Geoff! We should catch up soon. Are you familiar with checking out the contact patterns etc when re-assembling a diff? I want to make sure its all still setup right on re-assembly. Deren

Stock diff. Some of the fastest gtr's still run stock diffs. If it failed i would consider upgrading but apart from that.. I already know im insane You gotta do it for that brand new look.. Deren

Set of stock RB26 conrods with stock pistons attached. Perfect condition, only done genuine 50,000km's. Ready to install into engine. $250 Pair of new front brake rotors. Zero run-out. Oiled, free from corrosion. $180 Pair of great condition headlights. $250 Stock dump pipes. Both $20 PM for pics Deren 0402 829 091

Hey Bruno, thanks for the reply. I will probably move back to Melbourne one day. Im still deciding which turbos to purchase. Kind of tied between the HKS GT-SS complete kit with uprated actuators, and the pair of Garrett 707160-5005 (2860r-5) with .64 rear housings. I've been told the next step up is HKS GTRS, but you loose some response. Anyone got any ideas on a twin turbo package that is on the right on the limit of excellent response but able to make more power than either the HKS GT-SS or the Garrett 2860r-5. Im guessing there isnt anything better but i thought no harm in asking. I will most likely be consulting Mark Jacobsen at Godzilla Motorsport on the matter as his workshop is only a 2 min walk from my workshop. Aside from turbo choice, i have been working on the front diff. I have replaced all bearings, including the crossover shaft support bearing. Also replaced all seals. Im going to source some new exhaust manifold studs as a precaution, so they are all removed currently. I have meticulously cleaned up the engine wiring looms (with a toothbrush lol). I then re-wrapped it all in new electrical tape so its looking brand new. I've been working at getting the wires to run as neat as possble and out of sight. Not that you can see anything once the engine is back in and everything installed!

R32's dont use vacuum to control vents etc. Its all electronic with motors doing the work. Sounds like its actually quite easy to see the connecter as our12 described. Check that out. Good chance its the cause. If not its a good place to start anyway. Process of elimination. Deren

Hey Brendan, thanks for that. Ive been keeping a close eye on your blog. Looks fantastic. We really do share this same interest and to the same standards it seems. OCD standards! I have to remind myself that its actually something i can take out and drive once its to that stage. Its easy to forget that its not just a project, its actually a car haha. Hey Hame got your PM's i replied on the one about the sand blasting, about to read the other now. Should get my 'snails' early next year. Hopefully January. Keep you all posted. Im getting together my new front diff bearings and assembling it at work. Apart from that im at a bit of a stand still for now. Deren