Godzilla32

By the way the box the wreckers sold you is a 100km/h chimer.

You have one O2 sensor in each dump pipe (x2) and one exhaust temp sensor further down on the cat

The spring and ball bearing is the pressure relief valve. Its normally in the fitting just before where the high pressure hose joins onto the pump

If it doesn't take too much force you can usually remove the balancer with a 2 or 3 jaw puller without any damage.

Check the PRV (pressure relief valve) if they are jammed it will cause heavy/no power assist.

PM sent to duncan - thanks for your input Thanks Leeman It must be becoming a huge read now lol

Anyone need a RB26 oil pump for their RB engine?? As mentioned its in immaculate condition. If you have seen the rest of my build you will know why Need to sell ASAP. Anyone want it?

Cheap alternative to buying from the shops. Anyone need them? They suit a number of engines as listed.. Deren

No not slotted just standard vented.

This extract from the manual shows how to line up the engine for cylinder head removal. Remove the top timing cover section to see the marks on the cam gears.

Hey mate, Im an apprentice mechanic so i can assure you i do not have too much cash lol. I just spend every cent i earn on the car! In 6 weeks i'll have a baby boy I've heard the name forest lake but im not sure where it is. Be good to catch up! I had planned to restore it to relative stock. However it'll now be good for upto 700hp. I have spent alot of cash on the bottom end. The rest of it has been quite well worked too. I have listed it all out a few times. Deren

Price drop on parts...See my signature

There is a special trim clip removing tool you can buy that makes it very easy. Unfortunately i do not know where to buy it. Id say probably automotive tool specialist like snap on or the like. I know snap on sell a complete kit but at a guess its probably hell expensive knowing snap on! As for what the sheilding/matting is for..Id probably say to its mainly there under the bonnet for heat and possbly to dampen it. Less tinny sounding. Same purpose as the body deadener your adding only the deadener your adding would do 100 times better job! On my car seeing i've spent so much on a show paint job i doubt i will put the bonnet one back on. As for the boot, there isnt one on the r32. So don't be too worried about leaving them off. Deren

Hey everyone. Small update. I've opted for a N1 oil pump as i can get a new one at a great price Apparently not a huge benefit over stock apart from uprated flow and consequently pressure. So if anyone wants my stock RB26 oil pump feel free to take it off my hands! Last night i made an order on Nengun for a Tomei sump baffle, Tomei metal head gasket and combination gaskets and Cusco pillowball front shocky upper mounts. I also ordered a new thermostat and oil pump gasket from nissan. So, slowly but surely i will get there! Deren

Don't jump the gun mate. You need to test it with a CO tester first to establish whether or not you have in fact got a compression leak. You could just have a heat exchanger leak. The heat exchanger transfers heat from the oil to the coolant and vice versa. If there is a break anywhere in seals etc then you will have a similar situation. So get a CO (carbon monoxide) test done to confirm your head gasket scenario. Don't ever assume Could be alot less costly if you check it all out. Deren BTW: RB26's arent renowned for blowing head gaskets. More so lifting the head off the block under extreme boost applications. Or cracking between water jackets.

1st gear deffinetly has a syncroniser assembly. Its combined with 2nd gear on the same syncroniser hub. The same goes for 3rd and 4th gears. Check that when you fully depress the clutch you are getting good travel at the clutch fork. If they machined the flywheel exceessively or changed any other component that would effect your slave to throw-out ratio (clutch fork ratio) then that could also be the cause. Make sure both the clutch master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder aren't leaking. (peel back the dust boots and check for fluid thats leaked past the seals. Also check for correct fluid/level in the gearbox. Make sure there is no air in the clutch hydraulic system. Bleed the system to be safe. More than likely it will be a hydraulic issue by the sounds. Im with the point on the heavy duty pressure plate being a strain ont he tired slave/master (seals). Check for leaks. Feel free to PM me, as your mechanic is giving you the run around and thats not how it should be. He has supplied you with a product/service and he should be following it up. Hell, it even sounds like he could make a buck out of the work on the hydraulic system. Foolish.

Bearings still available at this stage. $50 is cheap i recently saw them for $90 trade

Standard rotors, not cross drilled. Brand new. Deren

I realise they will not make the power. I also realise the power figure quoted isnt at the wheels Its a rough HP/flow figure. Its all going on a built rb26. 26 bottom end and 26 head. Planning on using the 2860-5's. I think i was just getting greedy Deren

I had planned to use this pump on my built engine but have now upgraded. Its all within spec, cleaned out, lubed, countersink bolts locktited, ready to install! I also freshened up the outside of the housing with a bead blast to bring it up like new! It was to go on my restored gtr you may have seen in the Gen Maintenance section. Im looking to sell it ASAP $250 Will freight. Brisbane Deren 0402 829 091

Here is a list of your basic trouble codes and what they mean. This is out of the R32 GTR workshop manual. If you can get a download of it, its very handy Deren

Thats handy to know

Over the last couple of weeks i have throughly cleaned out and re-assembled the bottom end. As instructed, i used only WD40 in the bores and a smear of oil on the piston skirts. Im told this creates a very quick effiecent bed in of the rings instead of the first few cyles glazing over the oil. Anyway the whole bottom end is turning over very sweetly and im now satisfied i've done everything i can to provide me with many years of reliable, big power. After i torqued down the mains and big ends i fitted a new genuine water pump for reliable street and track use. I also refitted the crank baffle plates to the crank girdle. Im about to order a Tomei sump baffle, Nismo engine mounts, and Cusco strut tops. While im waiting for the bits i will fit new bearings to the front diff and later fit the Tomei baffle and bolt up the sump. Im also currently ordering a Cometic metal head gasket, so once that arrives i can torque down the head. Heres some more pics.

I have been told that the Apexi N1 shocks use a upper spring seat then have a mounting plate that bolts to the body (strut tower). Im not convinced thats how they are setup. Looks more like the springs upper seat is the upper mount for the shocky and that bolts directly onto the car. The reason im asking is im about to order some upper mounts for the Apexi shocks i bought 2nd hand. I just want to make sure thats how they are designed to work. Can anyone confirm this for me? If you could take a photo of them on your car i would appreciate it Many thanks, Deren

See if you can find the workshop manual. If will tell you how to run a diagnostic on the ECU without any software. Maybe able to pinpoint whats faulty. I saved the side window seals but the front and rears were damaged in removal so either going to get non genuine or bite the bullet and go genuine..