Godzilla32

Hey mate thanks for that i really appreciate it. Makes doing this thing all the more worth while! I appreciate any car in immaculate condition but i think its hard to find an immaculate import from that era so i wanted to have one of the best

Front end is now re-assembled back into the car. I'll run the spanners over all the nuts and bolts once more when i get the shocks and castor rods in. Once the car is back to kerb weight, and on her wheels i'll crack all the nuts/bolts once more to reset all the bushes making sure they arent twisted. I freshened up the stock blow off valves and they have come up very nicely. No photo yet but soon to come as well as others. I have prepped and painted what seems like a 100 of those trade mark nissans pipe clamps which are scattered all over the car in various places! There hasn't been many parts at all that i havn't refinished before fitting back onto the car. Helps to keep a fresh consistant theme through the car. Im not sure if i've already said it or not but i plan on replacing the rack mount bushes with the same nolathane bushes as the rest of the ones i've done. Im hoping for a more responsive feel out of it. Like the rear i'll be replacing the sway bar link pin and d-bushes with nolathane parts. Anyway i'll reply again soon, Deren

Ok finally i have got the front subframe back from Pearce and Taylor. I know i took my time but it was difficult to say the least. They close at 4pm and are only open monday to friday. I work everyday til 5pm. Anyway, one thing i wasn't expecting was that they had already painted it. However it was quite glossy and not quite upto the par of the rest of the car. So me being me sanded back the gloss and am about to refinish it in the same epoxy based satin black i used on the rear cradle. It will match properly then. Everything else is pretty much ready to reassemble on the front end now, i was just waiting for the sub frame to come back. The steering rack cleaned up quite well, i plan to finish it like original with a black tube and refinish the cast alloy with the same 'cast alloy' silver paint i've used on every other bracket, pipe, and cast alloy surface. I also cleaned up and the power steering cooler and painted it and its fittings. I spent a few hours stripping down and cleaning/painting the sub-cooling fan too. I painted the mesh cover but the rest looked like new with a bit of elbow grease! Fitted a new piece of rubbery strip between the top of the A/C condensor and the radiator support panel like factory. After i had picked up the front wheel bearings i fitted them to the painted up front hubs. They look great! I will add fotos either tomorrow or soon after. Now the only thing im missing from my front end is adjustable castor rods and aftermarket pillow ball strut tops to fit the Apexi N1 Shocks. Im getting my focus back to the engine and driveline now too. I am saving to pick up the clutch from Jim Berry so i can take it to the engineer machining my engine and get him to balance it along with the crank, rods, pistons etc to zero grams. Once he has that ready for me and i can afford to pay him (lol) I will get it back and reassemble the bottom end and later fit the cylinder head. Its a slow process but the rewards once complete will deffinetly make up for it. However i keep reminding myself i have owned this car for nearly 3 years and have completed a total of 7,000 kms!! Yes its surely spent most of its life in my hands off the road being tweaked and perfected to my liking. Can't wait to use it! Deren

You need to get yourself a timing light and check the base ignition timing. Thats the best place to start and will enable you to adjust the timing correctly if need be. If its way out and you cant even get it close then it'll be out a tooth or more on the t-belt... Deren

Yeah that rules out either a leaking heater core or overflowing evaporater drip tray. Only really leaves water coming in from outside, and seeing you said it was in the rain for 2 days it sounds like its the most logical answer. Its probably water leaking in from the area just in front of the dash where the interior air intake is. Water could be trapped in there and leaking inside the car. Either that or maybe windscreen seal?

These are an updated rotor without the cross drilling as they were prone to cracking. Not sure if they will fit your GTS-t. I'd like to hope the GTR has a different front brake setup than the GTS-t, especially with the extra weight and price tag when new. However i could be wrong, just ask around. Deren

Rotors only for sale, no calipers. They are 296 x 32mm Deren

Yeh just let it idle with the rad cap off until both rad hoses become hot (with heater on full hot). That means the thermostat has opened up. You will normally have extra room to put a little more water in after this happens as the air has escaped from the cooling system. The best idea is to put a short piece of rubber hose in the radiator fill hole to raise the water level of the radiator above the rest of the system. This helps to get all the air out. The bleeder screw fitted to some cylinder heads/inlet mannifolds are to help bleed air from that part of the system. Some are like eye bolts in that you can just open them up a bit without taking them completely out to release air and others must be completely removed. With the engine running open the bleed screw up and leave it open till the coolant flows from it with no bubbles. Then screw it back in and make sure there are no more bubble coming from the radiator. Then replace the cap and take it for a drive keeping an eye on the temp guage. Remember when the system has no water in it (IE: boil over) the guage will not work correctly. So most likely will read normal or lower. Dont get tricked by that. Hope that helps, Deren

Nissan quoted me $283.90inc for the front wheel bearings. Thats trade price though.

Hey everyone Over the last few weeks i've slowly been inspecting/prepping/painting up every individual front end component. I've slowed down a little bit lately (been lazy since my holiday). However im getting close to having all the parts ready for re-assembly. I still need to pick up my sub-frame since it has been jigged. Picked up the correct front wheel bearings today yet to pay for them but they are about $250inc for the pair! The NSK part number is slightly different now than to when they were first installed at the factory so there was some confusion there. Going to use the factory front upper links to begin with. Once i have it back to kerb weight i can set it up on the wheel alligner and see where its at. If its out i'll be also getting a pair of adjustable upper links. At this stage the front end suspension mods are as follows: Nolathane sway bar bushes, Pillow ball upper mounts on Apexi N1 dampers, Adjustable castor rods. As for the engine bay its coming along nicely! I have fitted both clutch and brake master cylinders, along with their boosters. The wiper motor is fitted, the ABS module and all of the brake lines are fitted. I went to extra trouble with these adding a coat of clear over the top of the cast alloy finish i have been using on all the pipes etc already. There is so much packed into these GTR engine bays that you cant even see once everything is in place, even so they are all getting the same treatment. Anyway i'll add a couple of photos to show what i've been upto. Unfortunately they aren't the best quality photos but you get the idea. Ciao, Deren

No need to remove the steering column cover or the lower section of the dash to do it. Just the cluster surround and the cluster itself. Deren

Very common on the Rb25's. Remove and replace all the studs with new ones.

An over tensioned belt is the cause for the noise and after time as the belt stretches a little it will quiten down. Deren

Prolly just needs some lube in it. Check for misalligning panels and paint chipped off bolt heads that hold on panels. Check for even and original spot welds.

A new cable is from nissan is $90 dollars, bite the bullet.

No photo yet but if you PM or email me with interest i can get a photo. Considering they are brand new, i'd like $180ono for the pair. Deren 0402 829 091 Brisbane

Sounds good. I've been a little lazy lately but im still slowly working through the front end. Getting everything painted up the way i want it. I've been hard pressed to get time to pick up the front subframe off Pearce & Taylor. Once i get that back and buy a few other things i can reassemble the front end. Then once the engine bay is fitted out with everything it used to have in it (lots of stuff!), i can save up and get my engine back! Ron did you mean 4000lbs clamp load? 4000ps is alot of power...lol I like your quote on Jim, haha

The numbers are there but they had to match up a bearing. The cheapest i can get is $250 inc. for a pair - left and right. Crazy i know but thats trade price, normally over $300. As for the clutch, i assure you if you specify to Jim what you'll be using the car for and how much power you'll have etc, he'll build you one to handle it.

Hey! Sounds good to me, i want GT-SS turbos but they are another 1,500 dollars more so i'll have to see if i can make the extra stretch. The front end has been removed, stripped, and im in the process of cleaning down the idividual parts and painting them. Going to most likely replace both the wheel bearings as they are looking ok but not great. I'll have to price the kits from nissan as its proving difficult to get a generic bearing kit from BSC. If i take them the bearing they may have more luck matching it. I had the actual subframe re-alligned, as i mentioned it had minor damage. So to make sure i had the best possible chance to achieve perfect allignment i had it straightened to original spec. When i get the money and time to go pick it up i will get onto cleaning and painting it also.

Haha theres still 'some' dirty bits that i missed but i plan to wipe them over 'one day'

Hmm well to the front i plan on fitting: adjustable castor rods, adjustable upper links, pillow ball strut tops, Apexi N1 dampers. I will be dismantling the front end as of monday. Once its completely stripped i'll inspect the subframe and make a descision. We have a wheel alligner at work so i can take my time getting everything perfect. I'll post again once the front is stripped and i have some new photos Deren

Haha yeah but that defeats the purpose of having a nice car. Im hoping to get a photo shoot done on it pretty soon after completion. After that i'll drive the car regularly but only on nice days and on good roads. No gravel roads for me! Deren

Left hand rear brakes fitted. Deren