Godzilla32

Make sure the AVC-R is correctly setup. You'll get incorrect readings if its not.

Never going to get it to work?!? How do you figure that? Providing its not rusted out, or damaged in anyway, I think a 2nd hand exhaust is a good money saver. Especially if they dont make the one you want anymore! Deren

Id say its low on gas. Low enough to not engage the clutch on the compressor but still just enough to get the air cool. So get the system leak tested, repaired, and regassed.

Yeah only nice weather and only nice roads! Hicas is staying for now, see how it goes I guess... Im going to have a full week hard at work on it in a fortnight during my holidays so iI hope to complete the front end in that time. Deren

Over the last two weekends I have: Cleaned up the under car lines, painted them and refitted them - I took them all to bits and cleaned out every clip etc Refitted the rear cradle and reconnected all rear end fittings There are still a few things to add to the rear end like brake calipers, but essentially its complete. I have included some photos of how its looking now. Photos dont really do it justice. Im about to begin stripping and rebuilding the front end now as its already dropped out. If i get stuck with anything on that job i'll start refitting bits to the engine bay like brake & clutch hardware, wiper motor, etc Before I forget one thing i did notice is there is a slight buckle in the front left of the front sub-frame. It looks like its due to a hit on the wheel sending the shock through the castor rod to the frame. I was going to fit adjustable castor rods anyway so will that solve the wheel allignment issue i would have otherwise? Just want to get peoples opinions and find out all possible options to remedy it. Deren Note: I already wiped over the tank with a protectant/shine but with all the work i think it needs another hit.

I scrubbed it clean and used a rust converter on the light surface rust. It was only around a few welds so nothing major. After that i wiped it down again with wax and grease remover and painted it. I dont use a primer unless its bare metal. Not with the parts under the car etc anyway. I painted it with VHT chassis/roll bar paint. Its an epoxy based paint so its pretty tough. For the diff i used K&H Engine enamel. It lists diffs, engine blocks, etc on the back of the can. Good luck mate, Deren

A week or 2 ago i cancelled my order of BeeR pineapples through Autoshop as nothing was happening. I ordered a set of the Whiteline equivilents (better product) through the group buy and they turned up yesterday. They include 6 rings instead of 4 that come in the BeeR kit. There are 4 small rings as well as the 2 larger rings. They include 2 small ones with splits and 2 without. Unless your going to fit the small rings above the rear cradle you dont need the splits in them which have been known to open up over time. Spent a few hours today pulling apart all the lines that run from one end of the car to the other underneath. I figured i may aswell clean/paint them up fresh too as it will detract from the rest of the underside. I plan to refit all the lines under the car tomorrow then refit the rear cradle. Today i got a hand to put the rear cradle onto the trolley jack so its ready to position in the chassis. Howeer it looks like the ETS pump on top of the diff wont clear the fuel tank, so hopefully once i unbolt the pump temporarily i will have enough clearance to roll the jack and cradle under the car. Deren

Well like you said Autobarn never have parts in stock, you may have more luck with Repco stocking things like timing belts etc. However you will come to find that its not always so easy to get parts off the shelf for our imports. Sure they carry parts for camrys, commodores, and falcons but luckily we arent driving one of those! In my opinion the best place for: Performance parts - Nengun, Greenline, etc Timing belt idler & tensioner - BSC, roughly $120 for both Servicable parts - Repco, Nissan Deren

It'll be missing because of something you've done (or haven't done) regarding the sparkplugs and coilpacks. Just check it all over again and im sure you'll find the problem. While your there check yoru coil packs for hairline cracks. If they are original items then they are most likely about to let go and maybe removing and replacing has upset one or more and finsihed it off, anythings possible. Deren

I aggree, people instantly think a brand new car is better than a excellent condition 2nd hand car. I have a tip for you, take it to a workshop who knows what to look for (not just shiney paint) and get them to look over it before you buy. Its the safest way and any decent seller wont mind. Get the best of both worlds.

Yeah i am, but considering i wasnt even going to open the engine at the beginning of this rebuild im only installing forged pistons, complete balance to 0 grams, oil flow control and return, etc. Im sure ive already noted it all down in the thread previously in detail. A stroker kit is way too expensive and you can make great power without it. The crank and rods are known to handle 400kw, from what ive learnt the rods are the weaker of the two. So 400kw is enough for me, if i even modify the supporting hardware for that much power. Deren

Your just cranky cuz you dont have either! By the way, I think you'll find that an r34 is heavier than a r32. Hence the same braking power in both will result int he r32 pulling up quicker.

Haha, they edit it and not only dont say how they fixed it but wipe what the problem was! Nice work

Any GTR is better than a lesser model in my opinion. If you pay the right price you will get a decent example in good condition. People expect to get a great 32 GTR for nothing. Just wont happen, you gotta pay for such a great car. I wouldnt own any other model of skyline other than a GTR. There is something about the R32 GTR that gets me in, aside from the facts on paper, potential, and the visual appeal. Deren

lol i think thats a bit over kill, there is plenty you can do before taking it to that step. Take out all the plugs and get a rag to cover all the plug holes then after disconnecting the ignitor crank it over till it most of the oil spits out of the plug holes into the rags. Might be an idea to get a booster battery as the battery will go flat after awhile of cranking. After you got most of the oil out make sure you got a sump full of oil and put the plugs back in and try to start it. Dont forget to connect the ignitor again. Good luck.

The ECU is located on the passenger side (not drivers side) kick panel. The HICAS control module is located under the parcel shelf.

Ramps arent that great as they tend to slide away from the car as you try to drive on them and can be dangerous to get the car onto safely. Id be more inclined to get a set of 2000kg stands and a decent trolley jack. Much easier to use and ive tried both ways so this is 1st hand. Upto you though. Good luck. Deren

Good way to screw your auto draining it while its running... Thats just plain stupid. Not all autos have a drain plug either. If you drain out the pan and refill then flush the system your wasting ATF, cuz its just gonna get flushed straight out again. Youw ill also need about 10-15 litres of ATF as thats what most systems hold. The only way to do a full flush correctly is to use a ATF flush machine, same as P/S flush. The pan is where the majority of contaminants end up and thats the most important part to remove/clean/inspect. Its designed to collect particles of clutch dust/cooler fragments/etc.. Most are fitted with one or more magnets as well as grooves that will catch the non metallic particles. BTW: R.C, you are misleading these guys about how to and when to service an auto. You seem to have no clue on the subject and pretty much everything you suggested is incorrect and could potentially be damaging to the auto.

Sounds like its damaged. Z32 AFMs are 250-300 i think...Guys?

OK then we can rule out the battery, good. Next look at the starter & solinoid (which are combined) and earthing of the circuit. If there isnt a good earth (strap) you may aswell be not supplying enough power as its the same end result. Deren

I did explain to you that there is a screw holding it together....To do any work on the boxes you gotta remove them first... The evaporator deffinately needs to be removed to get the heater box out. Keeping in mind before you remove any of these boxes you gotta disconnect the lines connected to them from the engine bay side so u can pull them thru. While your there you may aswell remove the blower box as it'll give you more room to manouver the heater box (prick to remove with body reinforcement still in car) The blower box is only held in by 4 nuts.

Dash has gotta come out but its pretty basic once you got the stereo etc out. Two bolts up top under covers and a couple more on the bottom corners. However before you remove the top section of dash you gottta take off the sections that are attached below that. Before you go pulling it apart do a search on climate control diagnostics and test it out to find out whats actually wrong with it. Might save yourself alot of time. Possibly you have an A/C leak and thats why its not as cold. Deren

If the key goes in and turns to start normally the first time before flipping it then its got nothing to do with the key or barrel. However commodores use an anti theft device in the key head that flipping the key sometimes helps, but thank god you dont have a commonwhore! Most likely a starter problem. To be safe you should get a multi meter and load test the battery. First unplug the ignitor so the car wont start. Attached the two terminals of the multimeter to the battery terminals then get someone to try cranking the engine and while its winding over watch the reading on the multimeter. If it drops below 10 volts then your battery is dieing. If not and it stays around 11-12 volts the battery should be fine and you can be more sure its the starter/solinoid causing the fault.

Vacuum leaks will cause a similar issue.

Yeah it took awhile but i hope its useful to some of you guys Also your right about it stinking, then again have a sniff of gear oil! Yuck.