Godzilla32

Yeah well theres no point in leaving out other important items while you got the chance to do them. Sump baffle is a good idea also oil gallery restrictor, improved oil returns to sump, full width oil pump drive collar, new water pump and radiator flush, finely balance all internals, etc. Plenty to do, i dont believe in doing things half hearted! You may have guessed that though haha.

Your welcome Ron, your my best customer. Haha, its the least i can do!

I would help you do the auto service if i lived in the same state Its really not that hard on your run of the mill cars as long as its easy to get to the pan. Although i do it on a hoist with a proper oil drain and all the right tools so laying under the car might be a bit tricky not to cover yourself in hot auto fluid. DIY auto service: First check if there is a drain bung on the auto pan. If there is it will make the job alot easier as you can rain it before you remove the pan. If not, place a tub under the pan (more to the back) the same size or bigger and undo the back row of bolts on the pan then work your way up each side of the pan alternating between sides so you undo it evenly. As you do this the fluid should start to drip/run from the back edge of the pan (providing the gasket isn't completely stuck on). Once you undo all the bolts on the sides undo a few on the front but make sure you leave at least 2 - By this time you should have some auto fluid pouring out of the back of the pan into the bucket. If not just undo the 2 remaining bolts a little and if the back end of the pan still doesnt drop at all you will have to put a bolt back into the back end of the pan halfway and lever the pan away from the transmission body until the old gasket breaks away. From here let the fluid pour out into the bucket. When it slows undo the bolt you put back in at the back so it wouldnt fall down completely when you levered it and let more of the fluid run into the bucket. It may come all of a sudden if the pan falls down a long way at the back, so make sure your two remaining bolts up front arent too loose ie: use them as your pivot point. As you undo them more the pan angle increases letting out more fluid. Once you have tipped most of the ATF from the pan support the middle and push it back up against the transmission body so u can remove the 2 remaining pan bolts. When they are out let the pan down but down tip all the ATF out instead keep a little in there to inspect for foreign matter. If there is much crap in the ATF take a photo and post it up for someone to take a look at. Its very hard to describe what means what without seeing it. Now clean out the pan throughly with kero/solvent/etc. Make sure there is no remnance of old pan gasket, scrap every bit off. I've never seen in a skyline auto so im not sure what they have in the way of a filter. If its a removable filter you can replace it with a new one. If its a screen type filter you can remove it and clean it out with the same kero/solvent and replace it. If you go to nissan spareparts and ask for an auto service kit they should supply you with all you need. Make sure you take your VIN number with you. While your at it check if those autos need any ATF additive. If it does you should put the required amountinto the pan before you refit it. If your refitting the pan with a cork gasket be careful not to over tighten the pan bolts as they can split the gasket. Use a 3/8 racket and hold onto the head of the racket so you can't apply too much torque. Now that the pan is refitted pull out the auto dipstick and get a tube that will fit in it or tightly around it and attach a funnel to the other end. Before starting the car add 2 litres of ATF. Start it up in park and with your foot on the brake run it through the gears IE: from park go to reverse for a few seconds then to neutral for a few more seconds and then into drive, again for a few more seconds (it may or may not pick up gears as you do this) Before you get out i usually give the throttle couple of quick stabs. Now check your dipstick (make sure the car is on level ground) with the engine running in park. Pull it out and wipe it and dip it. If the reading is all over the place you may need to wait awhile for the fluid to settle down the filler tube etc before you can get a accurate reading. Sometimes they will do this until you add enough ATF. So if after a few minutes you are still struggling to get a proper reading (remember to go off the side of the dipstick which is lower) just start adding ATF in 1/2 litre intervals. Another trick is to try check the dipstick level in neutral instead. If after only 2 litres its really full or still all over the place then just resume checking in park. Fill it to the bottom of the hot mark on the dipstick and go for a drive then recheck it. By then it should be filled to the top of the hot mark. If not add more till it is. Most shallow pan autos will take about 3-4 litres. Some deeper pan autos can take a little more but like i said add only a 1/2 litre at a time so you dont over fill it. Good luck, hope i havent confused or scared anyone thinking to do this themselves. LOL Deren

I downloaded my R32 GTR manual off here somewhere, try doing a search.

They usually have a circular strip of metal that is constantly in contact with the button as you turn the wheel. You could always get a R32 GTR wheel which is also similar to the ones you speak of and at a guess would fit up easier than an R33 one does... Deren

Why would a coolant temp sensor have anything to do with your air conditioning?? If you just yanked the sensor out of the box then you have pulled it out of the fins of the evaporator where it should be. Why are you going to a peroformance workshop for an aircon issue?? Take it to an aircon spcialist that is familiar with aircon. Makes more sense.

www.nengun.com www.greenline.jp www.justjap.com www.otomoto.com.au Theres a start anyway! BTW: post a wanted ad in the wanted section of this forum aswell as places like firesport.com etc

I wasent aware they had a tool to fit the filler restrictors. Mine also looks like inside the filler has been cut a bit, but it doesnt leak. I've attached a photo from fast if you wanna work out what you need and call nissan for a new part. Good luck Hey Brendan, You'll beat me by a long way, I was just about to type out what id been upto but then realised you've probably just read it all on here already haha. I plan to get to work on the front end asap and hopefully have that done in a month or so. Most of those suspension arm bushes are slightly worn so i'll replace them all as i go. Good to hear from you anyway, i've been keeping myself up to date with your progress on sillbeer. Looking excellent! Keep up the good work. Talk soon, Deren

Yeah if you park outside alot all the ducting will get blocked up with leaves and crud. Also a good idea to clean it out the cores and boxes with soapy water, as any crap in there is directly related to what you smell coming out of the vents. BTW: A/c core (evaporator) is a separate core to the heater core. From left it goes blower box, evaporator box, heater box.

I would deffinately service your auto every 20,000km's. I work in an auto shop in Brissy and we recommend every 20,000 or 12 months to keep it in good health. Drop the pan put in a new filter or clean the screen (if thats what it has) and put on a new pan gasket and refill your ATF. Much cheaper than an auto rebuild! Seen some autos die after as little as 120,000kms with insuffiecent maintenance. Deren

Yeah the cost of new o-rings is nothing so they would be crazy not to supply you with a new set as a safe guard. When you reinstall them make sure you use some vaseline and twist them as you work them back into the rail so you dont nick an o-ring.

Yeah thats right. I'll see how the credit card transaction goes, if it fails i will go thru him. As for the fuel tank, i cleaned it down and made sure all the hoses were not cracked etc. Was going to wash it out with solvent but didnt end up doing it. Sounds like a dodgy compliance you got I know what you mean though, they gotta cut something an add the fuel filler restrictor. Thanks mate, Deren

Im also considering the remap option for a number of reasons. How much is it worth?

Yeah you'll have to excuse my confusion. I was thinking it was the balancer you were trying to remove. My mistake I also apologise for saying the crank pulley and balancer are the same thing. My mistake, wasent thinking straight. Deren

Thanks mate, im sure i'll run into trouble at some stage now that im reassembling the thing. So much car to put back together! Today i got the fuel tank in, a few heat shields, and some hydraulic lines. Im very fussy how things look before i put them back in so im taking my time and anything that isnt already detailed i'll be doing along the way. It does take a little while sometimes to remember how bits and pieces went, especially the ones that the panel beater removed. He kindly gave me a massive bag of nuts, bolts, screws, etc that i sorted into groups to make it easier. Big job but in a couple of hours i managed to sort most of the stuff into about 20 bags. I may ask for a few photos of R32's if i get really stuck haha. Has already crossed my mind a few times so far... Anyway i'll keep you all posted through the week, of how im going. Before i can refit the rear cradle i need to get my hands on a set of pineapples from AutoShop up here in brissy. I originally tried doing a direct deposit into their account but after awhile i got my money back and it said there was no such account. They never answer their phone either. So i thought i may aswell try a credit card purchse this time. Waiting to see how it goes... Anyone else had any luck buying off them lately? Deren

Crank pulley is the harmonic balancer...Same thing BTW: You got my other dream car...My two favourite cars!

Good way to make your car stall when you pull up at the lights

Could always just watch your boost gauge to look for leakage...

Interesting stuff Geoff. Its good to actually read some real facts on what is allowed and whats not. Even the police give mixed answers. Deren

Coulda always used a 2 or 3 jaw puller carefully. I hope you werent refering to the harmonic balancer being 30 bucks?? If you were your kidding yourself lol

Lucky it wasent a issue like mr dirt garage suggested, they can be a pain. Havent had to do it on a skyline, but did come accross a pull type on a late model Pajero at work, was a real pain!

You need to do a diagnostic test on the HICAS system. Dont ask how you do it as ive posted it up lots of times already. Might have already said how in this thread! There were a few threads on the same topic so take a look.