Godzilla32

Good idea forgot about that. Merry xmas mate

yeah that sounds about right pretty far off $100 each belt though..

Lol ok good for you! I did the same but i chose satin black, nice touch to tidy them up. It is easy to mask up the rotor and surrounding area to paint them while on the car but you wont get quite as good job obviously. Good luck Deren

Well did you check it in park with the engine running? The dipsticks on autos are sumtimes hard to read so if you arent getting an accurate reading with it in park you can try neutral. Do this before you blame anyone. To fill after auto service put 2 litres in then run it thru the gears IE: from park to reverse for a second with your foot on the brake then to neutral for a second then to drive (all with foot on brake). Repeat this 2 or 3 times then check the dipstick and add more Dex as necessary till you get a level on the bottom mark of the hot section. Deren BTW: if it were nearly bone dry you wouldnt have any drive at all...

The Idle control valve is under the intake plenum (drivers side) it has 4 10mm bolts that hold it to the secondary air system and 1 hose that connects it to the bottom of the plenum. Remove all this then you can get it off and give it a clean. Good place to start anyhow. Deren

Solvent would be good to flush it with as it leaves no residue and dries very quickly.

Do they use Gas filled struts or torsion bars? If they are Gas filled you can get them reco'd. If they are torsion bars you can put an extra twist in it to tension it up stronger.

Yeah clamp the lines, remove the brake hoses and unbolt the calipers...Paint them up some ricey color then replace them and bleed up the brakes starting from the LHR then RHR and then LHF then RHF.

Shoulda done a search on this issue as there have been many other posts on the same subject. Its prolly the idle control valve sticking/dirty or something along those lines...

Im not sure if im talking about what your talking about but if you are worried about the strip of black in the photos it is actually seam sealer im not sure why there is paint underneath but you can clearly see where the paint has been and has come off...

Unless they have shiney backs or cracked ribs there is no need to replace. I bought mine from nissan for about 15-20 each belt... $100 a belt?? Not likely Deren

Thats seam sealer thats there from the factory to cover the joins of 2 panels. Its noramlly covered with paint but i guess after time it can come off as its flexible and paint is not. Best bet is to use touch up paint to cover it up.

Ahh thanks for that azzurra! I'll take that option for sure. Cheers, Deren

W.A you say? Hmmm sounds interesting haha..How much you payin? Yeah anyway...its alot of work but very satisfying to see coming together and knowing the end result is going to blow people away. I hope to show it once its done and hopefully get into HPI I've decided to go with the thicker stone guard that wurth offer. They are exchanging whats left of what i already bought and replacing it with the other stuff. Pretty good of the rep i thought. Problem is they wont reopen now till the 8th of Jan so that will halt progress till then. I found Otomoto are out of pineapples so i rang Just Jap in sydney and they can sell me a set delivered for $145 to Brisbane. Deren

Still working on painting the underside now. Im not sure if im turning this into a bigger job than it was or if its just more involved than i thought it was going to be...Anyway its taking alot longer than i anticipated, to do it correctly anyway. I first washed down the underbody with sugar soap and hot water (turned my hands all wrinkly and screwed up for hours). Then i wiped it down with wax and grease remover. The stuff i had lined up from wurth is in a aerosol can. Its not very thick and i found it quite dull, matt even. Possibly because you can paint over it? You can buy another thicker version of stone guard from wurth and it seems to have a slightly more glossy finish and gives a uniform roughness to the underside. The problem with this is that you also need to purchase a gun to use it with an air compressor. Its annoying to have to buy somthing that'll you only use once but i guess i have no option. I added a foto of: The subframe after initial removal The subframe nearly complete First go at aerosol wurth stoneguard What do you guys reckon? I think i wanna go with the thicker one. Deren

Unless you have a tunable ECU you can't 'tune' the car...Only check/change things like ignition timing, s/plugs, coils, clean air flow meter, air filter, check compression etc... All in all i'd be biting the bullet and taking it to a reliable mechanic to properly inspect the car and diagnose the problem. Its next to impossible to work out what a problem is without a trained pair of eyes seeing the car. Just because someone else had a hard to start problem doesnt mean its got anything in common with yours and its a waste of time guessing.

Still want these if anyone has got a pair of nice looking ones. Deren

Still for sale. PM for details

Tottally aggree. The original system uses all of the components you mentioned they will be updating your 'old' system with. If there is a problem with the compressor get it serviced or replaced and repair any other leaks. Id reccomend going to a different A/C specialist. Deren

If ther turbo was blown he would be making next to no power so thats deffinetly not the problem. If the blow off valve was seized there would still be induction noise but at a guess you would just get much more compressor surge flutter instead of bloww off valve noise/recirculation noise. Like i suggested try taking it for a short run with the filter removed to see if there is any difference. If there is then you know its directly related to your filter. If not then theres a change somewhere else in the system. Deren

A high percentage of imports, like any car 10-15 years old have been in some sort of an accident over their life.

HA's are no longer sold they now offer a slightly softer spring rate setup called 'Flex' What would you suggest Sydney Kid?

Coilover shock are generally alot stiffer than other shocks so maybe the reason why they said you have no travel is because you cant physically bounce the shocks. Try setting them up softer, they should have adjustment on the top of the shocks. It will hopefully help. Looks like you got solid cusco cradle rings too

I thought Access Auto in vic was the distributor...

Im not 100% sure but my guess is it wouldnt be as effective ie: wouldnt be as cold. Works like any other heat sink.