Godzilla32

Try taking the filter off and going for a quick drive or just revving it and see how it sounds then... If it has changed and wasent always like that then something must be wrong... Very strange for it to change suddenly.

Turbo spool up noise is probably the turbo on its last legs..If it gets louder as time progresses you can pretty much count on it being the bearings being flogged out in the core.

I've heard a simliar buzzing from mine, I also get a puff of hot air if i gun it sometimes. Most noticible on the freeway. Anyone get that too? I reckon its gotta be either the air mix flap or the heater tap/controller thats built into the heater core on my car. Deren

Yeah i aggree its how i feel too I just finished the rear end assembly tonight so over the w'end i will paint up the underside and hopefully, if i have time, refit the rear end to the car! Anyone want a drivers side headlight off my car? Its the full circle projector style non N1... Deren

You may have read on the troubles im having with using the standard R32 strut tops with aftermarket springs and shocks (Apexi N1). If the tein's are the same (from memory they are) OD spring then it wont be a straight fit on the rear not to menton the front which is a tapered spring as standard sp i would imagine the original strut top is designed to take a much larger coil on it...

R34 has steel wheel turbos doesnt it? In that case it would be fine..

You will need to check the actual connections on the rear of the assembly to see if they will plug straight in. If they dont you could possibly get the connectors off a front cut and join it up appropriately. Seems like a lot of work for not much gain though. Surely you can just buy one that is a straight fit?

Mine is exactly the same, wheel was off to one side too..

When you say 1250 i assume your talking in pounds? Thats light as, mine is 3000 pounds (1800lbs stock). Its also a single plate from Jim berry and its marginally heavier than stock to use. Its not all about diaphram tension. After hearing your pedal changes you should look at the hydraulics to make sure either the slave cylinder or master cylinder arent leaking or in the case of the slave corroded and sticky...

I got a Nippon receiver dryer and a new TX valve from my work in Tingalpa, we have a few imports thru and wont hesitate to work on yours. Business is a repco authorised workshop called Athena Automatics, 278 New Cleveland Rd Tinglapa. Cheers, Deren

Hehe i was frantically searching for my thread...only to find it right up top Thanks Mark appreciate it!

The rear end is nearly completed now with only the right hub left to make pretty and reassemble. On friday i will be getting the Wurth underbody deadener. From there i will mask the entire top of the car, clean the underside and proceed to spray one very bare bottom I have removed and detailed every single thing ready to go back on, so im keen to see the end result! I have managed to fit up the original strut tops (with some minor modifications) to the rear N1 Dampers. I'll wait to see how they perform like this but it should be ok. The front could be a a whole different kettle of fish as im pretty sure they use a tappered spring, whereas the N1's use a narrow diameter straight spring. My original stock GTR shocks are all in excellent condition if anyone is interested in a cheap fix for their leaking/damaged/soft shockies. My car has only travelled 46,000 km's so they are in great condition. I am more confident than most in saying that as i have inspected every part of the car for wear and tear with everything pointing towards a fairly accurate odometer reading. PM me for interest in stock shocks, Deren

Coolant runs throught the entire engine and cooling system (radiator, etc) so a mixture will be spread through the whole system not just in the area where the problem occurs.

Test the demister wire on the rear window for continuity with a multimeter set to ohms. That would be the first place to start to see if its actually a complete circuit. Then see if its getting power once its switched on using the voltmeter function on the multimeter. Deren

Yeah i was thinking the same...3&4 are vegetable based right? Anyway i guess the answer is yes you can use DOT4

Yeah it should click to engage whatever its powering. Compressor clutch? Id be more inclined to check fuses for your climate controls though. Do any of the other functions work? IE: Normal blower...

You can only do a Co2 test if you have the test kit same goes for the compression test. Best to take it to a reliable mechanic. Where are you located?

Heres the diagnostics out of the R32 GTR manual...

Hey buddy sorry for the late reply. The manual i use is the R32 GTR manual so it may be different for your car but i doubt it...It sounds similar to what you mentioned in your last post but i remember something about not going over a certain speed.. Gimme a sec i'll find the section in the manual....

Still the original question was why doesnt he have boost. Low compression or not..where is the positive pressure? Is it possible to damage just one cylinder with ceramic fragments? Did he have a low reading on number 3 before all this? I'd be checking the cat converter for left overs before you worry about the compression test results...

Yeah it can be a sign of a blown head gasket or a cracked head. Have you overheated it at all? Need to do a Co2 test and compression test perhaps. Deren Then again it could just be the heat exchanger sandwiched between your oil filter and the block...Doubt it but it could be.

If what your saying is that you are replacing the same bulb on either side and they a different, its because someone has replaced one of your headlights with a different one after a smash. There are a number of styles fitted to the R32

Im planning to do this as part of my restoration. Im not quite upto this stage yet but i figured masking it up and giving it a hit of the right paint would do the trick. Whats the right paint though? Also possibly more importantly what primer if any? It gets hot so it'd have to be heat resistant... Deren

Maybe n x would be no sound? This all sounds familiar.. Ent might be enter? To lock in the tune? Why do they have a facination with tunes!! Crazy japs.

You can try some graphite powder first...See how it goes then if all else fails i know Nissan will sell you a set.. At a cost of course. Deren