Godzilla32

The ABS module itself can be extremely expensive... The connectors you see etc are fitted to every car and utilised if its a model fitted with ABS.

b) Is actually inlet mannifold to head. There are 2 lots of 3 throttle body gaskets. One set for plenum and one set for inlet mannifold. You will need to replace the head to mannifold gaskets if they break. These have to be unbolted during the job. If they dont break you can reuse them with some ultra blue. You can reuse the crush gaskets that join the dumps to the turbos a few times. Check them for leaks and perhaps use copper coat on them. Deren

I had that exact timer a few years back. I managed to shut it up completely too... From memory i dont think the instructions helped me at all as they were in Japanese. I think i just fiddled with it till it stopped. Good luck

In 4wd you have a second smaller shaft running forwards from your transfer case upto your front diff then 2 more drive shafts (like on the rear) to connect the diff to your hubs/wheels

It could be a sticky accelerator cable, try removing the cable from the throttle body accelerator drum and working it with no other load. If it feels tight then thats your problem. You can use something like spray grease or wd40 to free it up. The clutch pedal and accelerator pedal are completely unrelated. The only thing that can get heavier with a new heavy duty clutch is the clutch pedal. All i can think of is maybe they were meaning that with a heavier clutch you need to give it more revs to stop it from stalling?? Who knows...

Dried up coolant. First try replacing just the factory clamp with a proper threaded hose clamp. That should fix the leak. Deren

If its on mild to hard lock and sounds like a clicking/clunking it could be your front cv joints as elk said. Try doing full lock circles while riding the brake in 1st gear. Go resonably slow but not slow enough to stall the engine and load it up using the brakes. Also try adjusting the amount of lock while your doing circles. If you hear the noise while doing this its most likely cv's

I am thinking...thinking...thinking....your a very foolish person who talks alot of rubbish Im with wrxhoon, sounds pretty clued up to me

Cheers for that mate, good to hear from you Yeah i wont be messing with anymore gtr throttle bodies for awhile.. As for the suspension i have rebuilt N1 dampers ready to go in with the resto but im lacking strut tops for them. Hoping the stock tops will fit? No one has given me a deffinate on replacements that will fit either.. Deren

Only get the HICAS lock bar if you dont want it anymore, you can fix the problem without removing it. Most are just too lazy. Last time i had my car on the road, i had this same problemLight would always come on after 10 minutes driving (steering wheel was not on straight) I also experienced heavy steering on a couple of occasions. If you dont already have it, download the workshop manual for your car and read how to conduct a HICAS diagnostics test. That should help narrow down the cause of the problem.. Deren

Thats my initial guess too. let us know how you went.

Anything been changed/altered since the problems started? Aftermarket steering wheel fitment etc? Wheel allignment?

I can and will do that for you but there is not a single thing attached anywhere on my car at the moment. So horns will be a little way off yet. I plan to setup twin air horns like i've had on all my cars. No tune just a sweet ferrari sounding horn. Prolly paint em black so there not obvious, reckon i'll just mount em in the stock spot. Much nicer than crappy stock electric ones I have a set of perfectly good stock horns here if they are any use to you. The car was and is immaculate so like everything the horns are in perfect nick..Clean too. I can prolly work out the wires for you and tell you their colors etc if you like? BTW: in a few days i will have my rear end suspension all reassembled and ready to go back into the car so i'll get fotos then. Looks awesome having the satin black links/subframe, the bright red nolathane bushes, and the silver detailing on the diff inspection cover, sway bar link pins, etc Even got the original orange LSD sticker back on the cover

I had mine re jigged, leak tested, repaired, cleaned and painted for $50 dunno if that was mates rates tho..

Do a compression test to check health. Then before you do the next service make sure you clean the engine down and see if it happens again.

Hit end on from where i have indicated with red arrows. This is the potentially tricky bit as the clip on the splined joint are known to get stuck and not let you remove the cv joint... Make sure you only hit on the part i showed you can do damage otherwise. If you get a better photo of the inside of the joint i will show you more accurately where to hit. Deren

Haha nice one sydneykid, thanks for the info i will deffinately take all that onboard. After what you said id have to aggree also. Im just running outta money and the new bars add up See how i go. Deren

There is no bearings for the cams Just bolted in with caps... I wouldnt bother replacing cam gear bolts either personally...However it is a good idea to replace the idler and tensioner studs, can be known to break. Dont bother with a genuine fuel filter you can get a repco filter for about 10 bucks. Are the rad hoses crunchy or bloated? If not dont waste the money, you can do it later when they need doing. Dont forget to check your heater hoses including heat exhanger ones too.

All this is very interesting. So should i just stick with my hollow genuine items cuz they are lighter etc? Will the dampers/springs be ok as the only mod to inhibit body roll? It impresses me when i find out things like the hollow bars etc on the GTR are standard. It was a damn fine car for its day, not to mention now! Deren

I did mine on a hoist and it was a piece of piss. The starter bolts are a little annoying though! Im sure without the hoist it will be a little trickier. See if you can get a cradle for a trolley jack to carry the transmission..

Yeah thats insane! A little crazier than me though Im toning down some minor aspects of the restoration but its still a very full on rebuild! Feel free to drop by Azzura, my number is already posted in the thread i think so give me a call sumtime. The read end is getting close to reassembly. Im powering thru all the bits after work each night so i estimate another week. Just got to still finish painting the subframe itself, diff inspection cover, lower control arms and hubs. I took the inspection cover into work today to sand blast. Deren

Lol yeh i kinda flew off the handle on that last post. My apologies. Yeah that would be awesome mate.

Ive also heard this trick of adding brake fluid, ATF softens rubber also... I think id still feel strange putting it in with my oil tho..

Can also be the compressor oil seal.

Comes with one boot only. You only replace the one thats damaged, commonly the outer as it does much more work. The boot kit is either: 39241-05U25 or 39241-05U26 I cant work out what the difference is as the text is all jumbled. Hope that helped Just take the slip pins to a place like autobarn and get a pack that matches them closely, its not that important they are the exact same size but try to get them close.