Godzilla32

You need to undo the shaft from the hub itself. And also drop off the lower and upper mounts to get enough movement to remove the splined end of the shaft from the hub. Where are you located mate? If your in brissy i'll be happy to help. Its not the easiest job in the world to do on the 32 and quite messy. Feel free to give me a call for directions 0402 829 091

What color is the smoke? Black, blue, white? If you have only just started to drive it again and this hasnt been going on for awhile i would possibly give it a motor flush and oil change with something like motul oil that has high detergent content. It does sound to me like oil rings so i'd be giving it a good thorough clean internally... Hope she comes good. Was is started periodically during the 12 months?

Probably a warper rotor. you can try getting them machined, but first i would get a trained mechanic to feel what you describe to make sure it actually is excessive disc runout..

They should have come with a little allen style tool that fits into the top of the adjustor so there is no need to grab the adjustor itself. Its a little bit of straight hex with a green plastic knob on the end to hold onto... My Tein HA's came with it anyway... Deren

Hey guys, for those who have tried and tested. Is there much to be gained over the original R32 GTR sway bars with say whiteline uprated bars? If there is i may choose to replace them in my rebuild. If i do choose to swap to aftermarket are the GTR bars any good to the GTS-t owners out there? If they are feel free to make an offer. Deren

Just jap have aftermarket ones, there are an assortment available from various brands like cusco, on Nengun.com

If it continues to blow you'll have to work out whats causing it to blow. Try to think if anythings changed that could be causing it..

You will need to buy a reboot kit from nissan. It involves removing the appropriate wheel. Unbolting the cv shaft and from memory when i did mine you have to unbolt both upper and lwr arms then you have enough movement in the hub to remove the shaft and after cutting the old boot off you can knock the outer cv off the shaft. The kit comes with new grease and everything else you need to replace the old. Before you replace the grease make sure you throughly clean the untire cv joint out. The joints can be a pain to get on and off the shaft itself so if its being difficult you can just remove the entire shaft. Regards, Deren

I paid 1400 for a complete re-shim/clearance check, valve seating, x2 new inlet valves, x2 new inlet guides, all new exhaust guides, all new stem seals and pocket flow.

Id be taking it back too, unless you regret having them ever touch your car in the first place. People are always trying to fix workshops mistakes...Why? If they made a mistake get them to pay for it/fix it. only seems logical.

I know your not supposed to reply here but if you let the reseviour run dry you will fill the system with air and possbily have more of a problemt han when you started. The best way to do this is to remove the old fluid from the reseviour with a sucker like the kind you use with an air compressor. Same as doing a brake bleed. Once again sorry for replying here but i thought it may be worth making obvious. Regards, Deren

make sure you have the filter connected...im sure a whole lot of spit wont help its operation LOL

Quick update. I've been working my way thru cleaning up/inspecting/painting the rear subframe components. All bushes look in good order, though i will probably replace sway bar D-rubbers and sway bar link pin rubbers. As for the actual subframe/craddle bushes, what should i do? Just add either pineapples or solid rings of some sort? Like i said the craddle bushes look ok and i dont want to go replacing something thats not in need of replacement... What to do..

If its the inhibitor switch on the auto a jiggle of the t-bar or trying neutral instead of park may get it to crank. On the other hand if its a starter issue a separate starter relay fix a bad earth etc...

I aggree you do need some backpressure on a NA engine.

The thing is you dont want to lubricate anything here. Belts arent supposed to slip. Another cause for a slipping belt if its not just slack is it can be bottoming out in the pulley. Like i said b4 check for correct belt tension and signs of slip and replace or tighten as necessary

I will soon also be making this decision...The rear seal is $430, the front isnt too bad. Also there are inner and outer sections..

LOL i aggree. Still if its just a loose rearview mirror then it'll move with an kind of vibration..

Should check belt condition too, look for cracks on the ribbed side. If you see any or the backing of the belt looks old replace the belt. There should be 5 mm belt deflection either way.

Anyone else got any?

Gearbox oil is yellow if its fresh, auto fluid is red (ATF), brake/clutch fluid can be yellow/green, coolant can be green/red (normally only toyota coolant is red). Its hard to tell but the clutch slave looks shiney which indicates wetness, peel back the boot and see if any fluid comes out..if it does you need a new slave cylinder. If its coming from higher then its most likely coolant from the heater hoses etc. Now that ive seen the second picture and the way it looks to be drying on the ground i say coolant. After a second look at the first pic the slave looks to be new too LOL.

I forgot to suggest that you can get the top tank replaced by a radiator specialist. Didnt read thru to see if anyone else suggested this but its very common to do..

Hey mate! You obviously got my msn msg Cheers for the support. I just dropped out the rear sub frame earlier. Ready to strip it down and perhaps replace some bushes. I've only had a quick glance at them. What is everyones thoughts on replacment nolathane buses? We use them at work but they dont seem to last as long as OEM rubber ones. I had planned to replace at least the craddle bushes with them but now i've seen them and they arent too bad looking im not sure what to do...

Parts are as follows: Passenger side Front Guard: $60 Drivers Door: $40 Drivers side headlight: $125 The guard has minimal damaged. Only a small scrape on the front corner. The door needs a little more work but its not too bad. Deren Brisbane 0402 829 091 PM or CALL ONLY

Yeah i hear ya guys..Would be bad news if anything happenend once it was finished Anyway i'll see what i decide when it comes to that time.. Alternator was $165 All i got them to do was clean it up and a new set of bearings. Brushes were only 50% used... Think i'll do the starter myself..Cant be too hard? Im not sure what to do with the P/S pump. Thinking to just give it a coat of paint to bring it up more uniform...Also theres the matter of the A/C compressor...thinking to flush it with some solvent and work it thru but theres always the option of getting it serviced and checked over...Then that costs more money...What do u guys think? PS: Alt was done at wynnum car electrics on Tingal Rd. Wynnum