Godzilla32

Car came home on Monday. Pretty darn happy all in all. Paint is like silk. As you may notice there are a few things still missing eg: rear wing, front grill, etc. However the front end will be removed apart from the guards to make it possible to refit everything else. Still planning to remove both subframes and clean/detail it all making sure everything is in working order. Also plan to add new bushes here and there (subframes etc), plus those adj. castor rods on the front. Deren

Hey Mark, thanks for that. When i tried adjusting the screw on the ECU it didnt drop the idle that i could notice. Even though it says it should in the manual. See how you go. You may want to check all your throttle linkages are set right as one out of adjustment linkage can cause it to hold the respective butterflies open. Creating a high idle. BTW you wont get it down to 800 (would be nice) but they are only supposed to idle at 950 give or take 50. I guess it just due to the design of the throttles.

Yeah it was taped up b4. Thanks for the reply

Its the spring on the accelerator drum that governs how much tension there is on the cable and pedal. Might have lost its tension..

Yeah does sound like AAC Valve, it bleeds more air into the secondary air system to bring up the revs when cold. Have to get it apart and clean it out. Also inspect the tension of the spring.

Check the condition of the seals, if they are hard and square instead of (where they contact) rounded and supple, replace them. They are common to leak. Same goes for cam seals, and half moons. Deren

I have a strange looking brown (what looks like) connector wired in just after the main ECU harness. It doesnt look original to me as wires looked to have been spliced in with the wires already coming out of the ECU connector. My car still has the 180km/h speed limit so it cant be something to do with that.. Any clues? Thanks guys Deren PS: Car has no other modifications from one previous owner. Never been modified (other than possibly this).

I'll show you my engine bay LOL...

I hate commonwhores... Anyone with me?

Its funny how far off my topic this thread has gone Cubes: It doesnt mean less flow it means less drive width.

Most of the time you will get the reminance of the turbine wheel in the front of the cat. So remove that and see what you find.

The part number is 25050-05U00. However thats the partnumber for the R32 GTR. I think they are all the same. Around $95 dollars JVP-R32 That will be most likely the speedo head itself.

At work we use MR Cool airconditioning for our compressor rebuilds. They are just south of the city. Its a TX valve by the way My car is stripped (you may have read my restoration post) at the moment so i will probably get my compressor rebuilt. If you want me to help you remove it let me know. Its not too hard. Deren

The remove and replace was done by himself so it was free labour. I've got my R32 GTR box in about a million pieces now. Dunno why i did it cuz it wasent noisy i just wanted to make sure it was all in good shape. Yes crazy and stupid both come to mind!

Nissan will sell it to you directly. if you want the part number give me your VIN and i'll get it for you

Im about to use ACL heat treated race series bearings

So i take it no one knows?

I used to design and build fibreglass body kits. If you need help on mould making and replication using gelcoat and fibreglass i will be happy to help. Its tricky if youve never done it b4 but once you know how its all pretty much the same technique.

Let me know how you go with that mate...Get me on MSN

5mm deflection in either direction. Look for slip marks on the belt face and backing. Also while your there check from cracks in the ribs. Easiest way to do this is to look at the belt where it goes back on itself, like when the backing is around an idler pulley. BTW if a belt is too tight it will sing not screech. Also you should have 3 belts, as previously mentioned if the aircon is on it will place extra load on that belt when the compressor kicks in so that will possibly make it slip.

Both tensioner and idler can be bought from BSC for about $160 all up from memory. Just need to buy the belt from Nissan

yeah most likely a sticky speedo cable.

From my knowledge your O2 sensors are only on the dump pipes. Could be a third. That light does work in conjunction with the diagnotics LED on the side of the ECU so could be something to do with that. Altho it usually flashes when your in diagnostics..

Yes it sounds like it could possibly be a blown turbo, but you can hardly say it deffinately is without seeing the car and making a visual inspection! Assumptions are the mother of all f*** ups. Are they even standard turbos with caramic wheels?

Cheers mate appreciate it! Im overwhelmed with the support and positive feedback ive received about this project of mine. I really didnt think anyone else would be into this restoration stuff. Just going fast...