Godzilla32

Yeah lucky about the blue sky hey! In melbourne i dont think it'll get out much lol

Yeah i spent hours upon hours cleaning with the engine in before all this started and it looked good but was lacking the perfection i was after. (See the pic i added) The car was mint before hand but im kinda ultra fussy and wanted what no one else has. I reckon i'll have to show it once its complete. No more driving unless its blue sky

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Thanks guys. Sounds like i have no problem then Its not the attesa pump. There would be no need for it to operate at idle. Only works when you are locking up the clutch packs in the transfer case to provide front torque.

Probably vacuum leak.

Hey guys no new fotos but others i haden't added yet. I go to the panel shop early next week to asses the final product. The panels will all be correctly gapped up but still essentially a rolling shell. fromt here i will take it home and put it up on stands so i can remove all the underside ready for under body paint. While its all out i will also rebuild/detail everything. IE: Sub frames front and rear, rear diff, all bushes, etc...Whatever needs attention, and doesnt for that matter lol Deren

Yeah it all comes at a cost...A big one too. I dont need the car day to day so it doesn't bother me in that respect as its been over 12 months since i drove it last. The Twin turbo pipe is a rough finish so u will need to remove that roughness first. Get it smooth then you can polish it up. I used autosol on all my gear it works a treat! For a super shine you may want to get it buffed on a bench grinder with a buffing wheel though..You should try by yourself first then if your not happy go get it buffed on a wheel One other thing... most people would have no idea how many parts there are to a car like this...Literally thousands! It takes up a whole room in my house and more, and thats without the car itself lol! All up i will have spent about 25k on the rebuild so say 50-55k including buying the car and other previous expenses!

Yeah at least 2 years old i'd say more but not 100% sure. Gotta love what it does to the rear of the R32! Deren BTW: Copies suck and nearly always will suck. They fit badly 99% of the time and arent worth the cheap price IMO.

Hey guys and girls. Im in love with the Do-luck T2 rear bumper. Ive foun them for 800+ buck without freight! Anyone know where i can get the real deal from and possibly cheaper?? Cheers, Deren

Im in Tingalpa mate As i said im short of friends since moving from Melbourne a year ago, so feel free to pay a visit. Keen to go cruising when its complete and lots of track time both drag and circuit. Hope then i might be able to meet more people with the same interests If you wanna come past one day give me a call Deren 0402 829 091

Yes the accelerator drum and bracket are included. Also the linkage arms are included but not the cable itself. Make an offer

Haha true. I forgot to add you need to remove the gearbox to remove the engine in the gtr...Once again, not worth the hassle for 2 measly turbos

Lol i dunno how this post got thru as i closed the window before i even confirmed to post...I'll post a pic now..was gunna wait till later int he build to show what im upto Its been very costly but its all about the passion I spent about $10500 at the panel shop for a show standard job inside and out engine bay is just as high quality as the outside is. Every part of my car is rebuilt to new specs or better. I have polished every part of smooth alloy and sand blasted every bit of cast (rough) alloy to bring it up like new. Anything thats not polishable or sand blastable ive cleaned down. Im a mechanic so its free labour. Some parts are expensive and some are suprisingly cheap. All genuine from nissan Forgot to add that all the pipe work int he engine bay (yes every single bit) ive finely sanded back and then polished up to a high shine. Dont have pics of that yet but i'll post up pics of the engine when its built ont he stand. I think i have obseesive compulsive disorder ...No seriously I parts in the pic are only a very small amount of the bits ive done. Went for the WV2 sparkling silver metallic (coarse variant).

Hey guys over the last 12 months i have been fully restoring my GTR ground up. I thought i might show you some pics. Im new to Queensland so if any of you are in Brisbane, I need friends lol.. Pics are a bit dodgy... Plenty to come Check (if you live in usa): Publix Weekly Ad, or Big W toy catalogue.

Good to hear that mate. No problem about the offer, anytime. I'll second the water and oil lines they are a pain in the ass! Very tricky to start the eye bolt without loosing the lower copper washer. Also make sure you dont cross thread them. Make sure the banjo fitting is square on the connection when you try to start the eye bolt. PS: I also need heat sleeve stuff..lol Never adjusted actuators as mine are stock.. Regards, Deren

The RB26 rear oil feed is block from the factory and the front is already restricted to 1.5mm (i think) so it cant be that damaging. I too am about to restrict the front feed further. Also looking for a good sump baffle. Anyone?

I attached the dump pipes to the turbos then sat them in the engine bay (as the manual suggests) then bolted on the mannifolds to the head then attach the turbo to the mannifold flange. From memory the power steering can stay there, i may have unbolted the p/s pump and pulled it aside. can't remember just see how you go. If it will make it easier then do it. Honestly though ive done both, removed the engine and removed and replaced the turbos. Engine removal is a big job and will need a hoist + engine crane. On the other hand turbo removal while engine is still in the car is tricky but alot less work. Trust me Deren PS: If you need help im in brisbane, if your not call me when you get stuck 0402 829 091

Unless there are deep scratches in the bores you should be able to get away with a hone and a set of new rings. If not you will need to re-bore and get oversized pistons. Lower compression normally means less performance but im not sure how low it has to be before it actually makes any noticeble difference. As the manual states possily 128psi?

Like i said try the leak down test to work out whats not as good as it could be..

Its an 8 hour job. Its difficult but not impossible with engine in the car. The hardest part from memory was the rear turbo flange nuts. This is where the 13 mm spanner comes into play. I didnt have any spectacular tools at the time but i dare say a stubby spanner as previously mentioned or perhaps a rachet spanner would work wonders. I did it in my garage with no hoist just on stands. Then again i've removed and replaced the plenum and throttles on my engine about 5 times with the engine in the car now too so maybe i've just built up some extra patience.. Yeah do as you just mentioned in that order, best to take a look at the service manual. Deren BTW: Dont remove the engine its a big headache. Not worth it just to do the turbos IMO

Need to sell these soon. Someone make an offer.

When looking from the front of the car they are usually mounted on the right side (drivers side) as its closer to the oil filters standard location. Also alot of these kits do include thermostats, but from what ive heard they arent necessary in australias climate. Also nengun sell those trust kits for ~$800 Just realised how old this thread was lol, possibly why the price is different

Still for sale, make an offer..

Dont clean the throttle bodies, It wont make it any lower, only higher, the more you clean from around the butterflies the more air gets thru when they are supposed to be closed - Hence high idle. Prolly the idle control valve getting stuck. Good place to start anyhow

Hmm hope not as i doubt they would exchange it over 12 months later lol...Thanks for that though Mark. Could you take a look at your to tell me which I should have? Only if its not too much hassle to find out.. Might try google now, see if there is a HKB site