Godzilla32

Anyone after a water pump. Ive had coolant in it since removing it from the engine so the seal should still be fine. I'll sell it for $50 Deren Brisbane

Im including the throttle chambers, the linkage arms, the accelerator drum and bracket.

Dunno what happened to the pics, here they are..

Most parts are still available through nissan geniune spare parts. Only come accross a couple of things you cant buy anymore. Would suprise you guys on how much you still buy new.

Ever had your throttles apart mark?

Unless its in direct air flow it won't reduce any extra possible flow.

This makes no sense..

You can get any decent workshop to do a Co2 test that will tell you if you have an issue. Should also do a compression test.

The intercooler is normally placed in front of the radiator. Air will pass through it first

Welcome

Im still learning. Not qualified as yet. Hopefully someone else can tell you what the correct formula is and what will be necessary to acheive safe combustion.

What gas? Its air..

Mine is ready to pick up from Jim now and i distinctly remember him asking me what i will be using it for even went down to percentages. EG:80% street, 15% circuit, 5% drag. So if you specify what you want to do with it he will give you what is necessary to do the job. Deren

Fair enough your call.

First remove the gauge surround then remove the actual guages and all you have to do is find the right bulb and twist it 90 degrees then pull it out.However i wouldnt rest till i found the reason for the bulb being on. Has to be a cause. Mine does the same however i havent driven the car for over 12 months so im yet to fix it. I have done the same as far as the boss kit goes. The workshop manual outlines the diagnostic procedure for HICAS. Dont trust anyone, thats my motto..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRgFc-NyKJo

you tube..wait i'll get a link

Logical physics, interesting stuff!

If you look thru they front bar in the drivers side brake duct you will see the blow off valves mounted side by side. This is assuming you have stock ones. It does seem strange there is no lift off noise coming from the turbos..Even with no blow off valves you should get compressor surge..

Yep i'll second the steel wool in muffler diagnosis. They use that to baffle the muffler. Sounds like its falling apart as it will with age/corrosion. Head will either be injectors as previously mentioned or more likely the hydraulic valve lifters. If you have changed oil viscosity that will affect how noisy they are especially if some are on the way out and loosing their tension..

best to do the sums and work out your compression ratio. Then you can choose an appropriate head gasket. Standard thickness will probably be fine if the pistons are already reduced comp.

Not that it will help much now but for future reference you should always replace the tensioner stud and idler bolt when doing a timing belt. Not to mention the tensioner and idler themselves. Apparently vy common to find either a collapsed tensioner/idler or sheared off bolt/stud. Good luck with fixing it up. Check and double check everything

Apparently for every degree you reduce the intake air temperature you gain 1 Hp. The pod filter shroud is probably more beneficial on a non turbo engine as they dont have/need intercoolers. Just because the turbine is stinking hot doesnt mean it will directly heat the charge air to the same temperature. The air rushes through there so fast it would barely be heated by the turbine next door. Its the compression of air that causes friction between atoms which in turn causes alot of the increased heat.

Eh?? Lean? It mearly runs the engine out of fuel so it doesnt spray at you when you remove fuel lines.

Fill the system with water and use a pressure tester to check for leaks. BTW just teasing about the taxi thing hehe