Godzilla32

It has big pressure in there and unless what you do is extremely strong i doubt it will last long. Considering it holds the life of your engine in its hands i would strongly recommend replacing. Try wreckers, should be easy to come by. Its a GTS-t! They are like taxi's.

Yeah cheers for that mate. How about the prime during idle? BTW just realised your after a nissan boot badge, i dont think i will be using mine anymore so its yours if you take me off your bad trades lol!

My engine didnt die but im currently rebuiding it. It is also an RB26. If your in Brisbane i have full faith in JHH Engineering. They doing the machine work for me and i will be building it. I also was faced with the question of re-using the standard ceramic turbos or replacing with steel wheeled items. i chose the safer option of replacing. However i am going to rebuild the ones i have to higher spec thru sliding performance. For $1200 its a pretty good deal. By the way a rebore is $220 forged pistons are about $1000-1400 depending on what you choose. However i am doing all the R&R labour myself so it would be much more expensive to do if your not a mechanic. You'll also want to check the crank as it has possibly spun a bearing or done some sort of damage in that department. A new set of bearings isnt too expensive. Anyway as long as his engine isnt totally destroyed i think he should just rebuild what he has would always work out cheaper...

If the throttle body gasket is still intact after disassembly apply some ultra blue silicone to it and it will ok. If in any doubt replace. Ask nissan, should be cheap as they are only paper gasket. Ive never taken injectors out of those engines but normally they are only held in place by the rail which is bolted to the inlet manifold. Hence they are sandwiched between. When you get your injectors cleaned professionally (only way to do it properly) they will supply you with all new o-rings and possibly insulators too. When reinstalling injectors make sure you use rubber grease or vaseline on the o-rings to prevent them from getting cut on insertion. When re-inserting use a twisting motion back and forth while you press them gently into the rail. Look to pay around $30 (plus gst) per injector for an ultrasonic bath clean and test. Good luck Deren

Hey guys i just want to find out from you guys who have the same car (and only you please) with the standard pump, how long it primes for in the morning or after many hours of not running. If you don't start the engine when the ignition switch is turned to 'ON' how long do you hear the pump prime for? Is it very loud? And lastly do you ever hear the same prime noise for a very short time (1 second) during prolonged idling? ... memory this too is only after the first start in the morning or after many hours as previously mentioned. Many thanks, Deren

No the chances are thats directly connected to your bad fuel economy. The O2 sensor is only there to finely tune/trim the mixture. A big change to fueling like that could possibly be the culprit. The standard ECU isnt programmed for that pump. However i could be wrong but logics tell me thats most likely the cause. Tuneable ECU will fix it if thats the case. Deren EDIT: Just noticed your ECU is reprogrammed. Don't qoute me on this i could be well off track but i still think its the different pump causing the poor economy

Ok ive possibly got the answer for your hard starting issue. I was recently at a work training course for EFI diagnosis. If the day/s before you try to start the car is a real stinker the ECU will record all this data and have the system set accordingly. If then you try to start your car the next morning in a cool condition/engine IE:garage/shade/early morning it is more than likely going to have trouble starting with the new data the ECU has logged from hot daily driving. To see if this theory is correct try pulling out the ECU fuse for a few minutes to reset it. Hope this helps Deren

Same goes for turbo oil return lines. They arent above anything hot that i remember. Pity too as they arent too hard to do while all still assembled..

Id look at those taped up coils.. If they're cracked throw them away and buy some new ones.. IMO the most common cause for misfire under load is ignition. Check for arc marks along the coil tubes and hairline cracks on the coil bodies. Probably a good idea to check ignition timing too.

Anything been changed since it started going bad?

If its in a turbo engine light weight flywheels are a disadvantage. A more weighted flywheel helps momentum between gear changes. Keeps the revs up for better turbo response during shifts. Or so i've been told. Just machine your current one to remove the risk of shudder.

Talk to Jim Berry @ Italia spares in Stones corner, Brisbane. (07) 38479999 Tell them Deren told you to call. He's got mine at the moment. I think maybe on holiday but his business partner will help you out.

You should hook up a fuel pressure guage first to accurately diagnose its the pump before you spend hard earned money replacing something that could be perfectly fine..

Im selling a complete set of GTR throttles. They havent been used since being reconditioned. Come with everything you need to install them minus gaskets which are worth $3.00 each from Nissan. $400.00 ONO They are in Brisbane but will freight at buyers expense. Shouldn't cost anymore than $10.00 through work courier. Cheers, Deren 0402 829 091

If this happened straight after they worked on your car it will most likely be directly linked to the work they carried out. The chances of it being something unrelated are slim to none. Take it back to them and tell them to check it over.

As other posts have covered the smell can be related to a badly sealing fuel cap or a badly sealed fuel filler restrictor...

What i meant was if the bearing isnt doing any work it wont make any noise! Therefore i doubt very much its the thrust bearing thats casuing the noise. Need to get it on a hoist and listen to drivetrain parts to work out where its coming from.

Thrust bearing only has to work when the clutch is depressed.

Engine oil will do just coat it so it doesnt go on dry.

Whats R&R??

My understanding of it after reading the HPI it was featured in is: They create a state of tune right for your car with its current setup then burn the data to the eprom chip and install it into your standard ecu. Therefore its not adjustable. Once its done it is set until you get a new chip remapped for a different setup.

It can leak from rack seals, check from wetness around rack boots, can leak from hoses also as they crack and become perished with age. They only put material over the brake and clutch master cylinder reseviours to catch leaks from the breather outlet, as it sloshes around more when your on the track due to high cornering loads/speeds. If the system is leaking check it out and get it sorted.

Correct me if im wrong but my understanding was that ignition timing and cam angles (timing if you will) are 2 completely separate things. IE: one is adjusting the point of ignition and the other is adjusting the cam angle....

Got spark??

Remove gearbox, clutch pressure plate, drive plate, flywheel and there it is. Use a flatblade screw driver or a seal remover to carefully pry it out and then tap the new one flush into place. Dont forget to use some rubber grease so you dont burn or cut the seal lips. Then replace the flywheel, correctly line up the drive plate and pressure plate then refit gearbox. If you dont have much of an idea about mechanics or own a trolley jack with gearbox adapter i wouldnt advise you do it yourself. Deren