Godzilla32

If you replaced the boost controller with the stock one and you still had the problem then clearly its not the boost controller. Firstly like warren said check all the intercooler piping connections. It sounds to me that your engine is not receiving boost. Without boost a gauge will read as you described.

Its all speculation really but have you checked the cat it maybe either emptied out or not there at all. Doubtful though if you just got the car from a ruputable place as they wouldnt allow it to be registered like that.

Firstly if a coilpack fails completely can miss anywhere in the rev range. Is the engine receiving boost? The Gauge will do that when the turbo is making no boost or its not getting to the engine.

I have a room for rent if your interested please call me Deren 0402 829 091

Couriers please...its about $20 to send a GTR cylinder head to Melbourne!

Its the non compatible boss kits that cause the problem not the steering wheel. HKB make a compatible boss kit for them. The sudden change in direction is caused normally by ruts in the road. Cars with wide tyres seems to do it more. I've also been told that having the same width tyres front and rear (GTR) also makes it worse. My car did both of afformentioned problems ie: HICAS light coming on at random times and grabbing ruts in worn roads. However i very much doubt they are related. There are a number of reasons the HICAS warning light will come on and they are all detailed in the fault finding part of the manual.

Haha, Just about...but not quite

Ok well the problem isnt in the cable like the other guy said. Neither will work if thats the case. You will have to get a new speedo head or get yours fixed...

Does the speedo work?

If your speedo works then its not the cable/speed sensor. Its in the head itself.

Sounds strange to me. Before you rush out and buy a new switch double check that the same fuse isnt blown again. All those things run on the same fuse. If there is a short somewhere it will continue to blow the fuse. The reason your brake lights work is because they aren't on the same circuit. If your LH light was out, im assuming parker light, why would only one of them be out if the fuse was blown? The whole circuit would have failed, therefore all of lights on the same circuit wouldnt be working. Then again it could be the switch.. You could test it for continuity.

Yeah id use shellite. Im a cleaning nut..even I wouldnt really bother doing it unless you gotta take it apart...If your engine is healthy there shouldnt be anything in there. I guess over time a little oil residue may build up. I can only really see a point in flushing the core as its the only part that will create enough resistance for residue to build up...

Nah my engine is fine but im fussy and while i got the chance i decided to rebuild it myself. Its a custom collar from what i gather so $150 includes making it and installing it.

Looking into the same problem at the moment for a guys GTS-4. I will tell you what i find in the way of after market suppliers...

Yeah well for the additional price of the collar plus fitting i'd be silly to go that way. Im sure his custom one is fine Looks like i might have some engine building work for him also..

Once you loose coolant the guage wont read right as there is no coolant for the sender to measure. You have possibly overheated it enough to blow the head gasket. Tolerances change once warm so it might run fine until it heats up but then leaks after that. Try doing a compression test and a CO2 test on the cooling system to be sure. Hope im wrong

Yeh Jhh will do it for around $150.

Look at watever you had to change since reverting back to the airbox. if it wasent doing this before you changed it then thats where the problem will be. Sometimes however changing things can upset somethign that was about to let go anyway. It does sound like you still have a leak though. Deren

A thinner oil will make it easier to shift, not thicker. Some guys use ATF (auto trans. fluid) in their gearbox because its very thin and makes shifts much easier. The proper way to fix the problem however is to strip the gearbox and replace the worn syncros. However this isnt a cheap excersize if you have to pay for both parts and labour. Might be easier to buy either a reco'd box or a 2nd hand one. Upto you... Id suggest trying thinner oil first. You probably replaced the oil that was already in there with thicker oil and that brought back the crunches. Hope this helps, Deren

I'll 2nd that: Dont mess with GTR Geoff! He knows his shit and has helped me more than anyone else! A threesome? Haha just kidding! I will admit it is hard to know who to trust with info on here. Some guys dont have a clue and think they do. Geoff however isnt one of them.

The sound you here with a stock recirculating bov is coming from the air filter. Its the air being recirculated back into the inlet then bouncing back and forth between the compresser wheel and the air inlet (air filter). When a pod filter is fitted this noise becomes audible as there is much less restriction/noise suppressant in a pod filter over the stock air box and resonator box.

The collar is alot wider isnt it.

Hey guys after some input. About 12 months ago i had my RB26 cylinder head fully reco'd in melbourne. About 250km after this i had an accident and totally stripped the car in everyway for a ground up build. When i stripped down the engine (mannifolds) i noticed there was a minor weap on the last (at the back of the engine) exhaust valve stem. Its only the last stem that shows this. The engine has been sitting for quite some time without having been run. For the people in the know: should i remove the head and send it back down to melbourne to the guys that reco'd it? I paid good money and dont see why it would be weaping so soon after the reco. Some guys said it will weap if the 2 valves are open for along time. Thats all fine to say but its only the one seal that appears to be leaking not the pair... Take a look at the pic and let me know what you think many thanks, deren

Thats ok thanks again mate.

I just replied to another post with the same answer... If you cant recconect the suspect wire get the car scanned for trouble codes. That will come up with any problems.