Godzilla32

Hey guys im selling all the vents out of the R32 dash (including the top vents). If your interested please dont hesitate to call me on 0402829091. I wont be back online anytime soon so dont post just call me or sms.. Sorry no pics at this stage but they are all in great conditon. Cheers, Deren

Ok i finally made it online! The bonnet looks ok but hard to tell from just a pic. Like i said in the sms get back to me on a freight cost to post code 4173 and i'll probably buy it... Thanks mate

Anyone had any work done by Darwens in Albion? Feedback would be much appreciated Thanks

On a stock R32 GTR 400-450kms is normal. Depressing as i was used to a 4cyl!

Everyone who has posted that welding it up is not the best option is right. Something like that is best patched with a tiny bit of fibreglass from the inside and a skim of bog on the outside. I am very cofident with fibreglassing and would be happy to do it. Im not on here often so if you wanna contact me call... Deren 0402 829 091 Tingalpa

I did the diagnostic but all comes up fine.. well apart from the sunlight sensor but the car was in the garage. I just seem to get bursts of hot randomly coming fromt he vents when i have the climate control on. Normally after a bit of hard acceleration...Any ideas? Cheers, Deren

I aggree doubt its got anything to do with the alternator. Maybe a botched installation of the P/S pump? Check everything around the pump itself. Cheers

Could be an air leak around throttles. They are very sensitive to this kind of thing. The have a sealant around them fromt he factory to prevent any air leaking past. I ended up geting new butterflies cut. i'll have to see how it goes once it back together. Should be good as new

One glu that will deffinetly hold them as i used to build fit bodykits, is Sikaflex. You can buy it from bunnings etc just make sure you securely clamp/tape the skirt while the glue dries. It will stick really well. Cheers

Make sure the vacuum lines for the stock boost control solinoid are connected to all necessary piping. Thats all i can think of.

Well it is high but i cant see that being a problem. Make sure all the cables an conections to and fromt he battery are all good. I had a simialr problem once where the car would just die and it was the terminal on the battery. If you have msn add me there id be happy to help more [email protected]

Use a multi meter to read the current coming out of the alternator at idle. Put hte positive lead on the cable coming out of the alternator and put the negative lead on an earthing spot. You should see about 13-13.8 volts at idle. Hope this helps, Deren

So all up what will that cost?? Maybe i'll get one of those instead of the ORC. It'll surely be cheaper...

Could be worn valve guides. Is the car using oil? If you are burning oil that will produce the smoke. But it would normally be blue smoke to indicate oil burning. White normally means condensation. Make sure the car is fully warmed up and get someone to watch again closely to see what color it is and exactly when it happens. Hope this helps a bit.

Just tell them what you have exactly and they will bring up the part number and get the right one for you.

If you keep rubing it with the clar bar it should eventually remove all the build up..

oh ok sorry i woulda sounded stupid then lol...

You can get them from nissan for $6.10 each

id always use a clay bar before gong to cut and polish because a clay bar is a much safer way to remove the build up of unwanted crap on the clear coat, whereas a cut and polish does just that-cuts the top coat very slightly and then polishes it up. Its good but i'd only use it to touch up anything the clay bar didnt get rid of ie: scratches etc Also sopunds crazy but use a fine steel wool pad to remove crap off the glass. It doesnt damage the glass. If you want try it on a tiny small concealed area first. Make sure you use sum glass cleaner with it though..

A 2nd resonator is the only option i guess. But those controllable exhaust valves are a good idea i guess if you want to limit the noise at certain times ie: when your nearly home, passing cops, or just want stealth mode hehe...

You need it all apart. Mine is currently getting rebuilt and its mandatory for them to replace the seals whenever you can! You will have to remove the cylinder head and remove all valves.. They are about $3 each or $10 each for genuine nissan ones. Hope this helps, Deren

i 2nd that siksII

Noramlly its just a little heat sink sandwiched between the filter and block right?

Im the same as you Lucien nothing ever ends up a small job. You end up doing 100 other jobs 'while you can' Its satisfying but at teh same time ends up being alot more work/money! I also need a new clutch if i want to be able to launch any higher than 3500 RPM with 4wd traction! I was plannign to get the ORC 700ps rated twin plate. As for 1700 delivered to my door its not bad. Hoping to install myself one day...

'Mothers Clay bar'! Cant go past it for what you need. Its about $50 from autobarn. Trust me on this it makes your paint smooth as silk and doesnt remove any actual clear coat. Even comes with a polish too. Just grab it and read the instructions on the pack. You can re-use it plenty of times too. Cheers