Godzilla32

Mite be a interior light dimmer switch? They are often fitted in that area

I had the same problem with my also freshly imported r32 gtr ended up being the front turbo exhaust wheel. The stock boost control solinoid is on the driverside of the engine bay. It has to lines running to it one comes off the end of the cylinder shape and the other off the side. This one has a yellow band painted on it. If you blose compressed air thru it you should see the actuators moving the wastegates smoothly... Also check that the recirculation valves arent leaking and causing boost to be constantly recirculated. But first of all check out the turbine wheels. Make sure they are both still intact. Hope this helps, Deren

The guy working on my car said he got the idle down to 950 when the oil is cold but after its warmed up its up around 1000 then if you boost it it gets upto 1100. I dunno he said it could be the oil??? Im using motul 4100 turbo light

Can anyone confirm that there is infact meant to be a slight build up around the butterflies int he throttle bodies? I thought it was just carbon build up so i got rid of it to improve flow hehehe and now its idling high. The mechanic told me its mean't to be there...Anyone?

Engine/Car: RB26DETT in an R32 GTR (89, showing 40,000 exact amount unknown) Type of failure: Front turbo exhaust wheel snapped off and turned into dust. Factors influencing the failure: Still not sure the car is 100% stock and never been boosted.. State of tune of the engine: As above Suspension and tyres: Stock Oil used and service interval: Motul 4100 turbo light 1000km's after first oil change since importing General comments: Was on boost at the time when i (didnt realise at the time but) lost all boost. There was no loud noises or any noticable smoke which was strange and i only noticed what appeared to be black (over fueling) smoke when i tried to boost after it happened. After testing out areas such as wastegate actuation and re-circulation valves for leaks i finally booked it in to get diagosed and was left with this. As i noted the exhaust wheel was turned to dust from still driving the car briefly not think it was too serious. One thing to add was that there was no dust sucked into the engine. Engine itself is fine.

Hey guys im desperately after a set of good/excellent condition stock (418cc) injectors from an RB26. The bodies on mine are leaking so i need a set asap. Please contact me on 0402 829 091. Regards, Deren Melbourne

Anyone with a set of the stock 418 cc injectors in good condition can you please call me on 0402 829 091 as i desperately need a set. The bodies on mine are leaking! Dammit.. Thanks

No problems mate. Nice car by the looks! Good luck with it. I just heard back that the front turbo on mine blew. The exhaust wheel came off and has turned to dust because i still drove it a little bit after it happened. These expensive hobbies are killin me!

I would if i had the cash but for now ive just stayed witht he stock turbo's till i later upgrade to something more special. Just dont have the cash.. Actually turned out that the front turbo exhaust wheel snapped off as always, but seeing i was driving it still for awhile it pretty much turned into dust..Still contrary to another post i was ready where two guys were argueing about the dust going back thru the engine this didnt happen on mine. Apparently i either would have had a big backfire to cause it or over boosting. The car has no mods at all, apart from a little thing wired into the ecu. Looks kinda like a loom connector but has no connection for anything to be plugged into it. Could it be a boost limit cut or something? I first thought it mite have been a speed limit cut but i dont think i ever got the chance to get over 180 before this happened.

Thanks guys appreciate it

I had a similar problem check that your interior temp sensor is connected and working if not that will automatically go to hot. If its not that its prolly the tap that opens and closes to control hot water to the heater.

Hey guys just heard back today that the reason i have lost boost is because my front turbo has seized up. I bought the car thru prestige. Now i got the choice to rebuild both thru Keir Wilson with steel wheels for the price of around 3000 or i can put in a 2nd hand front turbo. Ive been told the 2nd hand stock one will cost around 600 but theres no guarantee on the condition. Any tips? If anyone knows any reliable places to get 2nd hand turbo's with sum sort of idea on the condition can you please let me know. Regards, Deren

Seeing it only does it in 3rd n 4th id say it would have to be a gearbox realted noise. Most likely a shaft bearing spun up. It would do it always under acceleration if it was the diff i woulda thought.. I once had 5th gear make that kind of noise sounded like a rally car haha. Best to get a driveline specialist to look at it... Hope that helps ..

Nah i just realised his is when he lets it out yours is normal its the plates rubbing together as they separate and slow down dont stress its fine mate..if its starts to slip under power etc then its getting older over its useable life but if it only makes that noise its fine..

Forgot to add you'll have to replace the gaskets they are 3 bucks each from nissan but since i put my mannifold back on i think its been drawing air and giving me a high idle..If your taking it off just to repaint like i did its one of those things you nearly regret after hehehe..

uh oh big job looks easy but its a bugger of a job. First time took me 2 days 2nd time took me 45 mins..There are various vacuum galleries bolted onto it near the back underneath. Hard to explain you can see it thru one of the gaps between where the mannifold separates for each throttle... If you like call me 0402 829 091 .. Deren

rb26 placard says idle 950 rpm

If you have a multi plate clutch thats normal when you have the clutch engaged and the plates separate...

Kool thanks for all the feed back guys. Much appreciated.

If its the same as doing the brakes you can just put a clear tube from the bleed nipple to a clear bottle with brake/clutch fluid in it and pump the pedal till no air bubbles come out in the bottle anymore.. Can anyone confirm if that process will work the same as it does on the brakes?

I just checked my oil level nearly 1000km's after an oil change and it has lost sum oil. When i filled it, it was a tiny bit over the top mark. Now its about 3/4 between bottom and top marks. It doesnt leak any oil, and its not burning any either... But in saying that i now have no boost and if it were a turbo failure it would eat oil.. But as i said in the other post i dont have any smoke at all... Very confused, can anyone help?? Thanks again, Deren

When you have a turbo failure is there always lots of smoke all the time? I can still drive my car and there is no smoke.. It just has no boost.. Any tips?

I never used to have any crunches but since my car got a high idle (upto1900rpm) i find it hard to change from first to second without sum difficulty and a bit of a clunking feeling thru the gear shift. It only happens up gears really and mostly between 1st and 2nd..Sumtimes 2nd to 3rd. Would the high idle cause this in anyway? If not would the shockproof fix it? Thanks, Deren

B) Every turbo has to have oil pumped over the connecting shaft otherwise it will seize under the temperatures and conditions it operates. The engine oil is pumped to the turbo. This is why its imperative to change a turbo engine's oil regularly. It gets heated up so hot that it tends to limit its life more so than a NA engine.

Yeah i aggree with that