Godzilla32

Could be a good idea to check ignition timing. If its out of adjustment you will have bad fuel economy, pre-detonatation, and when the plugs are damaged enough it will misfire too. NGK iridium and the slightly better platinum are supposed to be best. Nissan fitted the GTR with platinum plugs from the factory. No matter wat plugs you put in if the tune of the car is out you will always need to replace them before its time to. I'll be interested to see wat other guys think that know their engines..

Its a big job taking off the mannifold..Done it twice already! But im sure by the time you read this you would prolly have already done it a week ago anyway haha

The original vacuum line for the gauge runs to the back of the engine (firewall) and connects to the back of the intake mannifold (not the collector/plenum). Its closer to the block..Just use one of the original sealed holes that are in the firewall..

Mine turn off too..No problems with RWC...Sum RWC guys dunno wat to look for.....

Hey guys, i have an R32 GTR and i need to replace both caster rod bushes. After sum opinions of ppl that have polyurethane bushes. Are they noisy? Any squeaking? Ive heard from an unreliable source that they can squeak.. SO should i stick with the stock rubber bushes or go to the polyurethane?

Hey nedb no need to be sorry i feel like im taking over all of djhatton's posts anyway So far as i can tell the only thing that happens when the black box is disconnected, is that the stock gauge wont function. Which prolly wouldnt make much diff to your gauge by the sounds anyway. If you want both the stock and aftermarket gauges to function you need to put a t-piece hose connector into the vacuum signal hose (the one that is now only going to your aftermarket gauge) and they will both operate. Any other problems i'll try to help, Deren

Thanks for that, I will check that. The thing is its not blowing any smoke... I plan on getting it diagnosed by someone. Not qualified yet :wassup:

Hey guys i have an R32 GTR and i have no boost anymore. Not long ago the car just stopped making any boost. I was on boost at the time. There was no loud noise, and now the car runs smoothly and fine it just never comes onto boost (always below 0 on the boost guage)... Before this happened i think it may have been an intermittant problem... I have checked out the stock recirculation valves and even if i block them both off there is no change. I thought perhaps they were leaking and continously recirculating. I also looked over the whole wastegate actuator setup, from where the vaccum signal is picked up off the intake to the turbo, to the boost solinoid and back across to the actuators themselves. It all functions properly and smoothly..So now im dreading the fact it could be a turbo failure. Basically i want some ppl to tell me wat happened when they're gtr's had a turbo failure. Was there any noise? How did the car run after? Was it running like mine is? Thanks heaps, Deren

I have the same problem but its not my AAC vavle it can be an intake leak. Around the plenum or throttles, use sum aerostart . Spray it around the intake and throttles. if the engine picks up revs then you got a leak there

OK i can prolly help with this too. You are right, the black box that has a connector and a small tube running from it is for the stock guage. To run a mechanical aftermarket guage you need to t-piece the inlet pressure line to the intake mannifold. An easier one to t-piece would be the line going to the fuel pres. reg. Again i hope i have helped. Deren

I have a 32 GTR too. The wastegate actuators work off the vacuum pressure thats controlled by the solinoid opening and closing. The gates are normally open (no boost). Until the vacuum pressure builds up enough to close the gates and start building boost. Then once the pressure has reached the preset amount the ecu tells the solinoid to close. By closing the solinoid, and removing vaccum pressure, the wastegates open to control the speed of the turbine wheels (bypassing them), thus limiting compressor wheel speeds and boost level. Unless the solinoid has just been bypassed im suprised you are getting any boost at all. Because as i said the gates are normally open until there is enough vacuum pressure to shut them. very odd. I could be wrong about all this but thats my theory. Hope it helps.

My R32 GTR is idling high too but thats after i took the whole intake collector off..a way to see if you have leaks is by spraying aero start. It will make the revs pick up when and if there is a leak around your mannifold etc..Mine hasen't shown any sign of that when i tried it but it can get as high as 1900rpm after driving...i took off my AAC valve and cleaned it out i will get a new gasket for it but i dont think thats the problem..Also since this happened i lost all boost..I thought a vacuum line could be the problem..seems more like the wastegates arent closing to build boost than a turbo failure...So i need help with this too..how can i test the stock boost control solinoid...?? Any ideas? i have a completley stock GTR. Thanks

First things first your car only has one battery. There is no way that it will be your throttle bodies (yes you have 6) the rb26 has a multi throttle body setup to enhance throttle response. Throttle bodies being dirty wouldn't be an issue. In extreme cases they mite hamper performance if the airflow is being restricted, but in no way could they cut the engine completely. The chance of it being an o2 sensor problem is also slim as they only trim the mixture. id more inclined to check for air leaks after the afm's in all the intake plumbing that would make it run rich but i doubt it would completely cut out. It depends on how much has been modified on the car too. Like sumone said it could be the ECU especially if its an aftermarket unit playing up. Best thing to do is take it to a fuel system expert.

As the title suggests im after the panel that has 3 rings in it that covers the 3 gaues in the centre console. I put a tiny crack in mine and its shitting me! If anyone has any ideas please contact me at [email protected] Regards, Deren

I accidently put a small crack in the panel. i really only need the covering panel/face for the 3 gauges. If anyone has one or can tell me where i can get one from i'd really appreciate it.. I was qouted $250 for the complete gauge assembly! I think id rather have a crack in it for that price. Thanks guys. Please send any info to [email protected] Regards, Deren

Tube and fin flow better but not such a good temp drop, bar and plate have a better cooling effect but the design of the core limits flow capabilities of the outside air trying to get thru the core. So my chioce will always be the apexi GT spec intercooler, it combines a bar and plate style core with a uniquely shaped runner. Its actually angled on the front edge of each runner to help direct the outside air thru the core.

The car will either be at my door this Friday or early next week. On its way down now from brisbane on a truck.

Selling my Momo 'Race' wheel for $250. Perfect condition. Only reason for sale is that im buying a diff wheel. I was going to put it into my GTR but i have decided to buy another model wheel.. Call on 0402 829 091 or email at [email protected] Thanks guys, Deren

Thanks mate but i just decided to order a new HKB one. Found out MOMO dont make a boss kit for the r32.. And i wasent really keen on an autoteknica (not sure on spelling)

Im after a genuine MOMO boss kit for my r32 gtr. If you got one please reply back asap. Thanks, Deren 0402 829 091