Godzilla32

Thanks mate I just completed the gearbox and its now pretty much ready to go in. Need a speedy sleeve for the rear companion flange, and a couple of other small things but its looking the part now. Monday the car goes back to the panel shop to get a few small body things fixed up. Then the following monday it will be towed most likely straight to Godzilla Motorsport. From there i'll be fitting the gearbox and remaining driveline parts and giving it a run-in on the dyno! No update pics yet but plenty to come, plus a few videos of first fire and the dyno work. Deren

Even climate control cars use a heater tap to control flow to the heater core. The climate control cars usually just have it mounted directly to the heater core itself. Looks like a cable operated heater tap which would be controlled via a slide control inside the car.

You can buy repair connectors if you look thru the pages in FAST

Power up the fan manually from battery power with some wire and see if it runs. Good place to start..

You won't loose that much coolant. It should barely drop in the overflow bottle. Most likely a leak, internal or external.

Low or no A/C gas will trip the pressure switch causing the compressor not to kick in. More often than not its actually a gas leak thats the reason for no A/C.

Thanks mate, i reckon it looks pretty good I have some exciting news. Im proud to say i am starting a new job with Mark Jacobsen at Godzilla Motorsport here in Brisbane. Im starting in February and really can't wait to get into it. Needless to say, Mark will be tuning my car. I'll hopefully get all the loose ends tied up in time to have it running by the end of february. Deren

Stock oil pressure senders on the RB's are notorious for giving incorrect readings, so i wouldnt worry unless the red light comes on To play it safe you should connect a master gauge to double check. A workshop can do this for you without much trouble. Deren

Still for sale... Make an offfer.

The one on the top of the dash is a sun load sensor, which measures sunlight for the climate control.

Thanks mate. Yeah its getting there now, im hoping for it to be running in February. Ive been working on it a bit over this break and ive got the inner guards done. The right side is back in and the left side is nearly done, just missing a few clips. The oil cooler vent i had planned to make inside the inner guard was slightly modified to get the job done quicker. Its still just as good but i took a slightly easier and cheaper approach to constucting it. Basically i was going to add a trim border to both sides of the mesh, front and back. So it was just for show really, as you can see in the pics the way i did it looks fine. More soon, Deren

Hey guys finally i have some pics for you. My apologies for the delay. I have put on some new quality battery terminals and all new custom earth cabling to improve electrical performance around the engine to the main components. Of course i followed the same color scheme, i think it looks quite good. Possibly one more earth strap to go but im not sure where yet. Im getting myself organised to put the inner guards back in and get alot of the small jobs done. I got the car a nice new loud horn which i installed also. More soon, Deren

They are known to go both ways. IE: lock up all the time or wont lock up at all. I havent driven my GTR for over 4 years so i can;t tell you exactly when it comes on but i do remember it would come on from the heat soak if it was sitting for a while after it had been driven. Deren

The heat soak from the engine will lock up the viscous hub and fully engage the fan. I thought it had a bi-metallic strip on it which engaged it? The winding on the front of the hub?

Still trying to sell these. If you wanna make an offer please do. PM or call only Deren - 0402829091 Thanks

Hey guys, I need to find out if the wiring in the RH side of the boot in an R32 is behind the metal panel or if it runs in front. The panel beaters put mine back in and i think they may have got it wrong. Basically behind the boot trim on the right near where the ATESSA reseviour is (in a 4wd) is the wiring loom running in front of the metal panel but under the trim or does it run behind the metal panel and come out where the metal panel finishes and the reseviour is sitting? A pic of the RH side of the boot without the trim on would be best just to make it easier if you can't understand my ramblings. Many thanks, Deren

Yeah i planned to. I havent heard anything to say its not a good idea, although it could well be.. I figured cooler oil is always better than hotter oil? Providing you always have good oil pressure and clean oil, im not sure what the difference would be? Can anyone clarify? Nistune turned up on Monday and my new exhaust turned up on Tuesday. I ended up getting an Apexi N1 Pro. Its the biggest that Apexi make and will support bigger power firgures than some of the other smaller systems. Its also very nice looking and excellent quality. I fitted the Nistune daughterboard and its now operational. Im hoping to have the car driving by February (fingers crossed). Still waiting on a decent digi cam to get some pics for you guys! Deren

Hey all, Ive recently ordered NIStune for my car and an Apexi N1 Pro exhaust. They should both be arriving sometime next week. A week or so ago i got myself one of Peter's ECU Talk consult screens also. Its a great way to monitor the engine and for the price you can't beat it! It also allows me to connect the ECU to my laptop, instead of buying a cable which is roughly half the price of the consult screen. Im trying to organise to get this last lot of bolts re-plated so i can put the transfer case back together and get it all back in the car. Somewhere in between all that i have to get the car back to the paint shop to get a couple more things done too. Ive had the glass all tinted but i can't put any of it back in until the panels are completed. I fitted my new dash not so long ago too. It looks great! I will most likely be adding Cyberstork white faces to all the gauges and the brushed aluminium look backing with bezel rings to modernize the dash. Pics when the parts arrive, Deren

Hey Brendan, I didnt get the parts coated as i couldnt really afford it as my non-existent budget was already blow way out! Trying to get things completed so i can have it running again. Been a long time between drives! Im sorting out some more plating work for the transfer case bolts and some body work that needs redoing. Once they are both done i will be able to put the windows back in and the gearbox back in then get it run in and tuned at Godzilla Motorsport by Mark Jacobsen. Good luck with the silvia, look forward to hearing updates. Regards, Deren

As the topic suggests im selling a pair of Apexi pods with adaptors. All in good condition. $220 PM or call only Deren - 0402829091

Anyone need a pair of R32 GTR stock airflow meters?

Selling a spare pair of stock AFM's off my R32 GTR. Never had any problems during operation. $200 ono Deren 0402829091 PM or Call only. Thanks

My advice would be to firstly double check all connectors are plugged in. Sounds silly but its a good place to start. Then check which of the 2 you dont have; IE, fuel or spark. Deren

Hey guys, Finally moved into my place and got an internet connection! The car is safely stored in my garage here so work can continue. I have since completed the gearbox and im 50% done with the transfer case. So it wont be long till i can fire it up. Hopefully by the end of the year maybe? I do plan on making a few clips of things like first fire, dyno run in and tuning. I will get more pics asap of all the work since my last post from home back in June/July. I've had the glass tinted to i think it was 20% so once i pick that up i will put them all back in with the new mouldings etc. Im desperate to find an excellent condition, brand name, stainless steel front pipe for the car. Anyone? I'll be buying a Trust power evolution cat back at this stage. More to come very soon, Deren

I've been working at getting this gearbox completed. I know it's a slow process but it's been a bit of a challenge lately. I ordered a new c ring from Nissan but for some reason they only sent me half of it which makes no sense as there are a number of thicknesses to choose from to minimise groove clearance. So unless only one half was broken why else would I only need half? Anyway I'm currently waiting on the second half to come out of japan just like it's twin brother a few days earlier. I've installed the shift forks and rods into the gearbox, but still waiting on the re-plated bolts to really get thing going back together. I've decided not to paint the casings as I like the bare alloy look and with the good weather driving it will see I doubt the case will have a chance to oxidize. I've gotten the transfer out of storage and will commence work on it in the next week or two. Sorry about the lack of pics but my pc is still in storage too. More soon, Deren