Godzilla32

Hey, sorry about my lack of updates. I was kicked out of my rental property as they were selling it. With 2 weeks to move I got all my stuff and the gtr into storage. Hence the lack of updates. I'm staying with a friend and along with everything else my pc is stored at the moment. However I have still been getting a few things sorted out with the gearbox. Minus the selector forks etc, it's complete. Now I have to decide if I want to check out my transfer case. The rear subframe bushes were in good condition on my car so I just fitted pineapples to it. I know that it's possible to buy new uprated bushes for the subframe from nismo off nengun etc. Brendan fitted them to him Silvia. I'm suprised Nissan won't sell them separately. More soon, Deren

In most places its hard up against the straps. There are areas where its not but i can't say where those are off the top of my head. Deren

Its just an ignition module that receives a signal from the ECU and fires the coil packs. Why would you want an aftermarket one? Are you thinking of spark amplifiers like the HKS twin power, MSD, etc?

Bought them in a bulk buy direct from Mtq engine systems.

Yeah, couldn't have said it better myself. Sorry but they were gone a long long time ago.

Hey guys im chasing a few bits for my housemates car. Its a GTS4 but GTR parts will fit. Were after:- Front cv shafts RH front lower control arm PM replies please. Regards, Deren

High idle:- The only hoses on the charcoal canister that will cause a high idle are the vacuum signal and purge lines. They are both connected to the intake manifold and will cause a vacuum leak. Zip ties work well. Concentrate either aerostart or carby cleaner around the intake manifold area on all your pipe connections and joins. As mentioned if you hear a rise in idle speed you have a leak there. If its possible to get to you could carefully try crimping the hose to and from the air regulator (cold start), and Idle control valve. Once warm there should be a difference crimping the hose from the air regulator as it should already be closed. If you can crimp the hose from the IAC and the engine continues to run then you have an air leak. The IAC is an air bypass valve to control the idle speed. No air will pass the throttle butterflies at idle, as they should be completely sealed shut. The engine completely draws its idle air intake through the IAC. Keep in mind if the hoses are old and hard they will crack if you crimp them too much. I personally have had issues with leaking throttle butterflies creating a high idle, and i know of a few others too. Lacking power:- Checking the ecu for trouble codes is a good idea to possibly point you in the right direction. I suggest checking them then unplugging your battery (wait a few seconds) to reset the ecu and also delete the trouble codes. From there take notice how the car idles and take it for a drive then recheck the trouble codes to see if the same ones have returned. You can check the AFM's for voltage by back feeding into the AFM plugs (one at a time). Cranking voltage should be 1v, idling 1.1v, however the most important one to check is full load. Take the car for a drive and at full load you should see upto 4-4.5v If its not then you have an issue and need to replace one or both AFM's. Have you checked that the CAT isnt blocked or damaged? A CAT back system is only as good as the CAT in front of it. Same goes for dumps and front pipes, etc. Did you get a graph with AFR readings? This is very important to see if the car is running the right mixture. Make sure the car isnt actually misfiring at high RPM. Check your air filters for cleanliness as a restriction here will cause issues. I've noticed there is some boost creep on the graph but up top it only reaches 7.5psi. It should be there from the start after the turbos have spooled up. This could have been a result of the other exhaust. You should re dyno it and see if there if much change. Hope this helps, Deren P.S:- A dead stock R32 GTR will make around 220rwhp so you may not be too far off power figures.

Just a quick update on what ive been doing with it lately. I have been running through the vital signs and so far i have injector pulse, spark, but not a proper fuel supply out of the tank. I drained it dry when it was out and have only put in 10 litres since. It doesnt seem to be picking up enough fuel, just bubbles and splashes fuel occasionally. Im thinking because i drained the tank dry it has emptied the container the pump sits in. The fuel level still isnt high enough to fill the surge pot the pumps in. Either that or im looking at getting a Bosch 044 alot earlier. Another thing to note is the front of the car is up on stands so that angle may also make a difference. I've properly setup the throttle linkages so the accelerator is all setup now. Fuel system, is complete minus fuel pressure from pump at this stage. Oil cooler and filter relocator is completed minus a bracket for the core. Ive had alot more parts electro-plated, such as: All front suspension fastners, flywheel backing plate, random engine bay bolts, gearbox casing bolts, etc. I've picked up a few second hand bargains lately. I've got a Sard pod kit, Apexi pod kit, OEM front strut brace, and an excellent condition dash. Still waiting to finalise payment on another RH Quarter glass. I'll decide which pods i want to use when i receive them both. When i upgrade the fuel system i wont be using the stock airflow meters anyway. I'll most likely use Z32's with an Apexi suction kit.

New parts added. I have a pair of spare R32 GTR air flow meters $150 P.S - One has the mesh removed but does not effect its operation. Regards, Deren

Very nice unfortnately not ready to buy them. Good luck with the sale.

Very interested, check PM. Deren

Simple answer 'no' Normally if a sticker is attached it will be on top of the timing cover. Deren

Learn to spell then realise that is a ridiculous price.

Thanks mate, just completing the gearbox now. Then onto the transfer case. I doubt it will be much more than 2 months before its running, err potentially running haha. Deren

How'd you go removing the overdrive bush off the counter/cluster shaft? Prick of a job on my GTR box. The build of the box is fun though

The harmonic balancer bolt on the RB26 needs to be tightened very tight. About double your average balancer bolt tension. From memory its up around 420 ft-lb. If it wasnt tightened correctly then that could have caused it to come loose. Deren

Sounds like the belt guard on the crank pulley is missing. Check to make sure all pulleys are fitted true.

Haha that was the fix i found also.. Well its best to resoldier the connections for a permanent fix.

There are 2 restrictors in 2 of the vacuum tubes on the plenum side of the engine. If left in they will restrict boost to as you say about .7 bar. One is in the short hose that runs from the metal vacuum gallery pipe to the bottom side at the rear of the plenum. It is located where there are 3 outlets hanging under the plenum at the rear. The other is in one of the lines going to the stock boost control solinoid. Note: all restrictors are located by a yellow band marked on the tubing. Try removing the one near the control solinoid first and test for boost change. From there if there is no change then remove the other also. Deren

Have you run the diagnostic on the climate control system? If not all you need to do to enter self diagnostics is hold down the 'off' button for a few seconds within about 5 seconds of turning the ignition on. From there you use the hot and cold buttons to cycle through the different tests. Sounds like it will be the heater tap servo to blae though. Unless there is a problem with the heater core itself or the hoses to it. Did it work previously since owning the car? Deren

Haha thanks guys. I was freakin too so I raced out to the garage and had a look see! More soon, Deren

Its just the photo. Its actually a sealed join, just the light makes it look orange like rust. I assure you there is no dirt on the car, i have made sure of that Same goes for the rust. Its a very low milage car which was always garaged by its one previous owner. So it being overall in excellent condition has helped me in this rebuild. Those bolts look nice but im pretty happy with the ones ive chosen. Deren

If you are experiencing problems with your heater control IE: All of a sudden getting blasts of hot air while driving? Can you hear a buzzing in the centre of the dash even with the climate control off? Generally strange operation of the climate control system. I have a free way to solve the problem as long as your mechanically minded, etc. If there is enough interest i'll create a DIY on it. Deren P.S - This same fix could possibly extend to other nissan models but im not 100% sure they use the same component.

Yeah im very excited. I'll give the transfer a check over and replace anything necessary. Also want to check the drive chain for stretch.

R32 GTR Parts: Stock pistons and rods are in excellent condition - $200 (Price drop) Standard new front brake rotors - $180