Godzilla32

I've started re-assembling the gearbox recently. Its coming together well so far. It was actually one of my most feared parts of the build, but i have been pleasantly suprised. Im replacing the ball bearings and im giving it all a check over. I hope to have it completed by the end of next week. From there i will strip the transfer case and give it a similar once over. Both the gearbox and transfer will be finished in the same dark silver i have used on the CAS, exhaust heat shields, etc. Once they are completed i can refit the assembly and finally get ready for first fire and run-in on the dyno. Deren

Sounds more like your alternator died or you have just a wiring problem. Deren

I have recently added stainless allen key bolts to various areas of the engine/bay. It has neatened up the appearance in some areas and added some more detail. I have ordered new glass mouldings to have the glass refitted with. Before it goes back in i will be getting the glass tinted too. Im currently getting some bits and pieces (including the fuel rail) plated in chrome and yellow chromate. All the detail helps I have completely trial fitted up the oil cooler and filter relocation setup now. With nearly everything ready for final fitting its looking good. Deren

Check for a vacuum leak on the boost gauge vacuum tubing. It will cause both problems. Deren

Hey everyone, I've been busy organising bits and pieces over the last couple of weeks. Ive ordered all the necessary bearings today for my gearbox rebuild. Bought 3 remaining hoses from Nissan, 2 for coolant across the front of the timing cover and 1 for power steering fluid feed into the pump. Pieced together all the necessary Earls performance plumbing components. I wont tell you how much that cost to save you from heart failure It still needs to be fitted up properly and i have to make sure the over size oil cooler core will fit in the left inner guard. I hope to have it running and driving but not completed by mid year and so far i look to be on track Im still yet to get those few engine bay parts re-plated at the electroplaters. I will try to arrange that in the next week or 2. There are a few other bits to refit in the front of the car but its slowly coming together now Deren

Sounds great, i'll look forward to that. Currently organising a few things which are holding me back from completing the front assembly. Gotta get off my ass and get all those gearbox bearing and seal numbers so i can order new ones too. Most things in the pic are still just being trial fitted to check for compatibility and space etc. The fuel rail is one part which will receive some electro plating treatment to freshen it up before final fitting. I'll probably chrome it, either that or go with the original yellow cad plating that i will be getting redone on a few other bits. Deren

Yours looks pretty neat just like mine before the build. One big step further has seen me spend a massive amount of cash over a period of nearly 4 years and counting! Ive setup the fuel pressure reg on the end of the rail as planned and it looks the goods. More pics soon. Deren

A quick few pics of some parts trial fitted. Its a good thing i did as my oil filter remote mount had to be changed again. Ive found an excellent spot for it this time on the cross member below the engine mount. Its conveniantly located right next to the sump drain plug for easy oil changes from below. Items trial fitted are: Intercooler and plumbing including recirculation Front reinforcement bar Radiator, shroud and hoses Oil cooler components More soon, Deren

Id say most likely the turbo coolant supply line unless you can see the welsch plug leaking with a mirror? The larger hose is the coolant supply line. The two smaller ones are just signal lines for the wastegate actuators. Have you checked the heater hoses that run along the firewall there? Deren

So it turns out the 4-way filter remote mount i was planning to use is not going to be suitable. It has 2 inlets on one side and 2 outlets on the other, rather than having one of each kind on either side like i had hoped. So ive decided to go back to using the original filter mount which has one inlet and one outlet on the top. If i mount it sideways with the filter aimed forward i can access the outlet straight on and fit a 90 degree adapter to allow the inlet to plumb in from the core. Its going to save me a huge amount of money doing it this way. More soon Deren

PM'S SENT Only the core and filter remote mount are included as pictured. You will need hoses, 2 fittings for the remote mount and an adapter for the cylinder block where your filter normally goes. The Trust/Greddy cores are superior to a lot of the other brands on the market due to their internal runner design making them more efficent. Approximately $25 delivered to Adelaide 5037

If you are looking for a few parts to piece together an oil cooler setup, this is a good place to start. Price is negotiable.

Still available.

PM's replied. Quality Trust products. Both Items for $200.

No lines just core and relocator. Cores arent cheap. A replacement 6 x 8 of good quality is $275.

I have a Trust oil cooler core measuring 7in high x 13in wide x 2in thick, plus an oil filter relocator to suit a Nissan oil filter. The reason im selling these items is i can't fit the core into my location and i need to use a 4 way oil filter remote mount. Both items are used but in good condition and were bought off this forum. I don't want to separate the items. $200

Last time i checked they were $125 each

Its 4mm you can buy it from any autobarn.

Check grounding. Especially the engine to body to battery earth cable. Even replace it with a big thick one and make sure the connections are bare metal.

Bolt on exhaust is the way to go. Tried, tested and proven.

Thanks guys I estimate it will be running but not complete within 6 months.

A millions things maybe but the best is Shellite. It will clean everything from it and then evaporate leaving no residue. You can buy it from a hardware store.

From factory they use R12 Legally you can only use R134a gas in australia as R12 is ozone depeleting gas. The leak will be most likely from a cut o-ring. Get them to make sure the whole system is leak free and has compatible o-rings. Your right you are supposed to change the o-rings when retrofitting to suit R134a gas. R12 o-rings are black whereas R134a o-rings are green. More often than not they arent changed and wont always cause an issue. By the sounds of it upon re-assembly they have damaged an o-ring or a fitting and thats where your leak is. A leak is often noticable by a greasy stain around a join in pipes/hoses. Good luck, Deren

After many years a familly is finally reunited! The long lost RB26 now has a home. Since its departure, the RB26 has come up against many set backs and life changing experiences. All this life experience has made it tougher and more powerful! Its still settling back into its old surroundings with many previous connections to be re-established. Deren

Not many ppl understand the concept of the charcoal cannister. Connected correctly there will be a pipe coming from the fuel tank to carry fuel vapour to the top of the canister. It will also have a hose or opening on the BOTTOM of it to SUCK IN fresh air to flush the fuel tank vapours out the top into the intake manifold. It will only operate at certain manifold pressure. A diaphram is fitted to the outlet to control this via the manifold vacuum. A hose right under the car (not connected to the canister directly) will most likely meant to be connected to something though. Perhaps get a foto and we can help locate what goes where Deren PS: Another way to check for vacuum leaks is to use something like aero start or carby cleaner. Spray it around all joins and suspicious areas and listen for an increase in engine RPM. An increase means you have a leak there.