Timtim123

Cool, thanks for the responses. The machine shop surprisingly had rb info in their system and also stated it should be flat

Hoping for a quick response here. Dropping off my flywheel tomorrow to get it resurfaced and was wondering if anyone can confirm that there is a 0.008 inch step on the flywheel. I'm in the US, so I'm expecting that they won't have the specs in the system, so I'll have to tell them. I've done a good bit of searching and found conflicting answers. Below are two threads, one saying they are to be machined flat, the other saying they are stepped 0.008 inch (I found a few more threads about other Nissan motors having the 0.008 inch step too). Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424149-r32-gtst-flywheel-help-regarding-machining/ http://forums.nicoclub.com/flywheel-resurface-question-t61198.html

Good to know, thanks. That will be good to see how it looks on that half of the system as well. I'm currently pressure testing it and so far it's holding pressure fine (after chasing a couple of small hose leaks). Hoping it holds pressure. If so, my only guess is that it's old gunk that wasn't properly flushed before. Whether that came from a previous issue with the motor, or nasty water/coolant mixes, I guess I'll never know. I do know the car sat a good while over in Japan, so who knows.

Oil looks good, at least when it was replaced about 100km ago. No glitter and no signs of coolant. Wondering if this has been in the system for awhile and just didn't make its way out the first time I flushed it, as I don't think I even got the plug completely out the first time I drained and just let it drip out of a loose plug. I'm picking up the pressure tester tonight and going to test that tomorrow or sometime this week. I dug around a good while last night and it appears to be pretty simple and can be done with an empty system too.

I purchased my 90 gtst in August and noticed that the coolant was a little brown colored. I searched around and it actually sounded as if it was fairly common for these motors as they are prone to a little rust in the system. This car especially shows signs that it likely sat a good while before it was shipped here to the US. So I drained the coolant out through the radiator plug and refilled and moved on. It didn't look too bad just discolored. Just the other day I decided to start on my timing belt and waterpump change and drained the coolant. This time I drained via the bottom rad hose and noticed the coolant looked much worse and was pretty thick. See picture below. I'm thinking this is much more than just rust and possibly oil. It also looks to be sitting on top of the coolant, which again makes me believe it's oil. So before I put on my new water pump and new radiator/hoses, I'd like to fix the issue. Sounds like it could be either head gasket or cracked head/block. The local parts store here rents out a coolant pressure testing kit -- Do you guys recommend I start there to see if it's losing pressure? If so, I guess start with the head gasket? Has anyone used a pressure testing kit on their rb motor and have any advice/direction on doing so? Thanks for the help, I'm hoping it's only the gasket unless anyone can shed any good news on something else or less minor. My original plan was to just flush it real well a few times until clean then move forward to see if it comes back. But, I figure I shouldn't try to hide from a potentially bigger issue. Also, the motor itself seems strong. I did a compression test just last weekend and got about 158-160 across all six.

No pics because I've got the latch back on the door for now. I greased it up pretty good and still didn't have any luck but am able to get the mech to lock fine now using the door latch on the inside. I found that the angle of the rod that connects to the door mech/lock arm affects how smooth or rough it locks. I was able to get it at an angle in which it will now lock and unlock fine from the inside (something it wouldn't even do before). It still seems to get jammed up though when using the key or the electronic central locks, in which it hits the point before the 'click' and then just buzzes/grinds. I'm not really sure what else can be done without breaking one open and trying to figure out some more what's going on in it. For now, I think I'll cut my losses and settle for just manually locking/unlocking from the inside and just unplug the electronic lock and disconnect the key barrel rod. I'll play around with it a little more tomorrow but if nothing new arises, I'll live with it for now

Thanks for the reply, I'll try and get some pictures tonight (US time). It's not the actual lock barrel, but the latch portion of the door which is separate (the lock barrel connects to the latch portion with a rod). I sprayed my original and the second hand part down pretty good with brake clean and then pb blaster last night and it definitely did loosen it up some but maybe not enough still. Both the original and second hand are functioning the exact same though which leads me to believe something is just off or can be adjusted, just not sure what. I'll try and grease it up good and get some pictures too.

Hello, recently my passenger door has had trouble locking. I could occasionally get it to lock by trying a few times or really forcing on the manual lock switch or something, but it's gotten worse. The central locking makes a bit of a buzzing/grinding sound as if it is getting stuck. So I decided to take it apart and after playing with it some, gave up and bought a used mechanism, which includes the mechanical half and the electronic half. After playing with the new (used) part, it's doing the exact same thing. In messing with it, I plugged in only the electronic portion with the mechanical half disconnected. The arm looks to swing the whole length without any trouble when locking the driver door and triggering the auto lock. However, when I add the mechanical portion, both the new and old one, it gets stuck before it fully locks. In just playing with the mechanical portion, I can get it to lock fine using the rod lever, but you have to push it a bit to get it to fully lock (it hits a point where it gets a little tight and then clicks to lock position), so I can kind of understand why the motor can't get it to lock all of the way. I find it a little strange that two parts are both having the same mechanical issue though. The part where it clicks into lock position looks to have an arm that rubs up against the arm for the door handle and latch release, when I look inside the mechanism as best I can. So if you slightly pull the release lever while turning the lock lever, it doesn't hit the rough click point really. I was thinking of trying to find a way to adjust the two arms so they aren't hitting one another so that it is easier for it to get past the lock 'click'. However I don't see an easy way to do so or a way to really take the whole thing apart without breaking it. Maybe I can force some slight tension on the release lever to keep it's arm from rubbing on the lock arm. I'm sure this isn't making a lot of sense without pictures though if you haven't looked into it prior. Anyway, I'm wondering if anyone has had any experience taking the lock/latch mechanism apart or adjusting theirs due to similar issues. I searched a good bit and while this seems not too uncommon, most people say they just bought a new part and moved on. I tried to do that but have the same issue, so I'm thinking there has to be a way to fix this since it seems to be the mechanical portion. Any help or thoughts are appreciated.

You were right, it was the switch. It wasn't dirty but needed adjusting. Bent the rocker pins slightly and also slightly stretched the springs out. Seems to work good now. Thanks for the help

Thanks, I will look into that. I just read somewhere else to check the switch too but was unsure why that'd be since it is getting power fine without a bulb

I have a 90 gts-t that the previous owner had some cheap HID kit dropped in. I just pulled out the HID's and put in a new set of headlights and bulbs but I can't get the passenger side to work. It's not the bulb, as I swapped the driver and passenger bulbs and both work fine on the driver side. The passenger side is reading 12v at the harness on the multimeter as well, and I pulled the connectors out of the harness and tightened them up to make sure they are making good contact with the bulb. I'm noticing though that while I have 12v when the bulb is not plugged in, right when the bulb gets plugged in it drops down to 0. I'm a little confused as to what could be causing this. The ground seems fine, at least in testing with the multimeter (tested continuity by pressing one side of the multimeter on the ground connection and the other on another ground, and also by pressing on the ground connection and then a power source), and power is definitely getting there until the bulb is inserted in. Anyone have any ideas as to what could be causing that? Anything else I can test or look at specifically? Any help would be much appreciated.

Awesome, I'll read over the manuals and get more familiar with it. Might have to order a new boost gauge here soon as well to make sure I know what I'm working with. Thank you both!

Thank you both. I just found installation/setup instructions so I'll read that over. I'm reading a few places that people are saying 7 to 10psi stock for the rb20's. Mine's only reading about 0.25 bar though (~3.6psi). Like GTSBoy mentioned though, the shitty aftermarket gauge is likely reading low though. Trident, it does have the motor under the hood as well. I did see that video also before I posted here, but mine looks to have a second harness pretty close looking to the first one as shown in that video. Can't seem to find anything about what that second harness is but I'm assuming it goes to the stepping motor then. The first harness, which has a connection that I found, powers it on and it sounds like the stepping motor just buzzes constantly. I'll look around some more though and see what I can find.

Hello, the gts-t I just recently bought has an HKS EVC installed. The actual controller is sitting in the center console not hooked up. I just got around to looking into the wiring for it beneath the steering wheel and had a couple of questions. The car has an aftermarket boost gauge installed and under full throttle, is only reading about 0.25 bar. This seems pretty low to me. First question -- Does the set boost from the EVC remain even when the controller is not plugged in? If so, I'm wondering if perhaps the previous owner has the boost low. Either that, or I have a leak, or the gauge isn't reading correctly. The car feels like it's pulling decent and boost is definitely building, however this is my first experience with a skyline/rb20, so I'm not sure what is 'normal'. Second question -- There are two harnesses on the back of the controller. Only one looks to plug into anything under the dash. Any idea what the other harness could be? I can post pictures if it would help anything. Any help is much appreciated. I searched around online but couldn't find any clear answers. Hoping the boost is just set low on the car so I'm not chasing a leak/trying to fix the gauge.

Awesome thanks. Retrofit will def be in the future.. just need something that actually works decent for the time being