cowie165

Gordon if you're after gauges to monitor the engine, you could install oil pressure, boost pressure, and fuel pressure and also fit a digital temp gauge for the oil, water, exhaust, air, etc. temps. There was a guide posted a year or so ago by a user named "meerkat" (I think). Great idea, fits nicely with warnings for out-of-range temps. If you're after gauges for show, fit 5 of whatever right in front of the passenger

Z386 = Oil Filter = $7 Z387 = Fuel Filter = $35 Simon just made a typo

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=127517 Although the title says EL sensor into R32, it's the same for R33. Wiring info and part numbers are there too. You may receive a better response if you post maintenance stuff in the General Maintenance folder Cheers Mark

Boost/vacuum, oil temp, oil pressure would be my vote The oil pressure gauge saved me an engine rebuild - the motor was dumping oil and I managed to pull over and shut it off in time. Why air temp? If you have a consult cable and a pda you can view air temp and a lot more Mark

Hi dude. The VIN should actually look like BNR32003185. The characters you've listed actually refer to the trim/features/equipment information. Mark

Over 2,500 views = stickied

Thanks Richard, I forgot to explain the part about the lugs. Ta.

Dude it sounds like the wrong boss kit. If you try to straighten it and it doesn't work, you'll need to swap the boss. The usual problem is using the ON-110 when you need the ON-115 or vice versa. It is because the HICAS lugs are in different places on early (pre -92ish) and late R32s. Keen to hear how you go mate

Make sure you hang onto the old odometer for when (if?) you decide to sell the car. ps: lmao @ MunkybOy

Same problem here. 'IPB' instead of the SAU Banner. I'm using Firefox and the white SAU background (as opposed to the dark blue one with the new banner). Internet connection isn't a drama. IPB has been coming up for around two weeks now; I just noticed this thread. FWIW

I recently had a loose fan belt that made the same noise until the alternator regulated output to 14V, then it would stop. Tightened a smidge and it's good as gold. 5mm just like Deren suggested. PS Using the soap is a good way to help identify which belt is causing the noise. Washing up liquid works ok as well. It saves replacing belts left right and centre.

Yeah that's when mine used to stuff up. I found that I could cause my dodgy AFM to fault by pressing on the connector plug. It wont be doing the connection any favours, but if you idle drops and almost stalls then you've just found your culprit.

Missing at high RPM is likely to be a coil pack or possibly a dirty AFM. If the AFM is cutting out it will run like crud for a second or two, then return to normal, rinse and repeat. This is usually due to dry solder joints and means the AFM needs to be repaired or replaced, not just blasted with brakekleen. I think Steve writes about it in his thread that Craved linked to, but the dry solder joints cause the resisitance to go to infitinty with a consequent voltage drop to zero. Zero voltage means no input to the ECU so it stuffs around for a sec before switching to limp home mode, but by then the AFM usually kicks in again. HTH

Speaking of bullshit spit in here, you CAN vary your income tax payment so you pay less each fortnight, and DON'T have to wait for once a year. Section 221D of Income Tax Assessment Act.

Deren mate I hope I didn't read "full restoration" then "take it to the track"! Sorry, I forgot to check that ECU, not that it matters now!

Andru, dude he was directing his post to GTRPower. @GTR Power: There are plenty of NA cars that perform well. Most of the popular turbos have NA models. If the insurance for an SV6 is around the same as an NA Skyline, sure, buy a Skyline. I have a GTR but still have to stick to the speed limit just like everyone else. The extra power is fun but I also like just having an R32 to look at in the garage It only comes out once a week - the rest of the time I drive a shitter corolla. FWIW.

Deren only just logged in for your pm dude. I'll take a look at mine tomorrow It'd be a good time to see if I can get the ECU to settle the idle back to 800!

And then you drip some brake fluid onto the raw skin for that extra tickle.. :sorcerer: It sucks and hurts a lot.