cowie165

^^^ what James said.

werd

Sorry Daniel, Mr Nissan = Nissan dealership If you join the SAU NSW club you can receive discounted parts from a few listed Nissan dealerships. You'll save the membership fee (through discounts) very quickly.

And they are great pics. You must have some super macro on your camera or ultra hi-res to grab a shot of a jet in such good focus yet correctly exposed! Nice work.

The F-111 air display wasn't until after 11am! Silverarrowz do you have any pics of the C-130/B707 form flypast?

I was under the impression you used the GTR servoce manual in conjunction with the RB20DET supplement?

Exhaust, stock dump pipes, pod filters, boost restrictor in (~12psi) = 197rwkw

Ummm I've done 60km in my GTR. This post isn't for a pissing contest, just to share that there is a LOT more than 3-10km whilst the light is on.

Hi Leon. I have a colleague looking for an S15. Whereabouts are you please? If you're in or near Sydney, could you please post those pics? Thanks Mark

I'm interested in learning more about the case you've cited. Is there any more info on the web or just google? Thanks

Yeah your mate is just guessing. Chris is right, it's the cat overtemp caution.

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Sorry, I was actually guessing - the fuel tank I took off was on a sedan and not a skyline Cheers for the correction

Very good point dude! Cheers

Deren try reading on from here.

Not on the GTR. I just cleaned the TB on my Mazda's KG 2.5L V6 and it ran like crap quite some time... next time I wont be lazy and I'll take the TB off rather than just spray all that carby cleaner down its neck Is it a tough job? I'm sorry about dragging things off-topic, but my plan is to clean the IAC, clean the TB and then if it is still high I'll adjust the trim pot on the ECU. I'm pretty sure it had an aftermarket ECU removed prior to export, so the problem could be there...?

I'd sell the RB26 and replace with an R33 motor. Sell off your old motor to offset replacement cost.

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Deren you've probably got the wrong boss kit. There are two for the R32, ON-110 and ON-115. One is for early model cars like ours (pretty sure it is the ON-110) and the other is for late 92-onwards (or something like that) and says SUPERHICAS on the side of the box. The lugs are in different places. I think ours is 2 and 7 o clock, later models were 12 and 6. Might be the other way around, haven't had the wheel off in a while. And for the other guys, Beef said he is using a boss kit, not a HICAS lock bar. I think we all get the big difference. Using a boss kit shouldn't mean taking out the HICAS globe. Beef you may also be using the wrong boss.

ok cool. Did you replace the old battery with a similar one? Sometimes people downsize and go too far, leaving a battery that measures 12V and 14.5V when it needs to but isn't large enough to run the electrics properly. I agree with your diagnosis. It could be the alternator (but unlikely), but I wouldn't rule out the battery. What CCA rating were you using for new and old batteries? PS It sucks when your car plays up and you're trying to work it out. I have a Mazda that has a jumpy idle that I'm still trying to sort

Taking a fuel tank off isn't too big a job. I recommend finding a mate to help, but you can do it by yourself if you have to. I'm sure almost any wrecker can help you as it's an uncommon problem so they'll have lots of spares If you can buy a used GTR fuel pump for $150-$200 I wouldn't pay more than $60 for a gauge float.

Sounds interesting trex, cheers I don't think I've ever heard the pump during idling. ...but my idle is around 1200rpm so I don't hear much of anything...

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Hi Mark. Why did you replace your last battery?