cowie165

Deren mine does the same as yours. Primes only after a few hours of non-use, for around 3-6sec. Loud enough to notice it, if that makes sense.

Hey Pete. Thanks for putting your time and effort into 1.2, I'm looking forward to loading it. and now I'm also looking forward to replacing the Jornada

Thanks Steve, that helps too. Cheers mate. I'll have a play and let you know what I can work out.

Thanks Chris. Based on your info, I suspect the FR crossover isn't working properly. I'll take the dash out and see how the terminals look. Cheers!

at Richard. Thanks for stopping by to rub in that BOTH your clocks work If you need it cleaned, give me a yell

The mudflap thing you're talking about is probably the Nismo rear skirt. Option from Mr Nissan, standard on the Nismo edition GTRs. You can buy them but it'd be a little tricky to fit to your rear skirt Rylan, cause the GTR rear quarters are fatter.

Cheers Jason but yeah I've played around with the fade/balance/bass/treble. That was how I've been diagnosing the differing output. Hey there are no things that are silly, always helps to start from the start rather than assume I haven't touched the splits, although I have removed the bass drivers from the door. The tweeters still have some poor quality noise (won't call it sound ) coming out of them. Could that be related?

I used the WD40 beforehand. Then when they still wouldn't come off, try using your socket extension and a rubber mallet to give them a good knock. It is probably corroded so if you can break up the oxidised rubbish between the nut and the flange, it'll come off a whole lot easier. That said, I still needed to use the rattle gun for the last stubborn sucker. All the best dude

PS Indicators and more are in the R32 GTR service manual available from a torrent site near you.

Undo the little screw that fits the indicator to the front guard. Slowly coax the indicator towards you. It is held in by a ball and socket connector. Just make sure you pull it towards the front of the car and not the side of the car. Once it is out, twist the globe holder thing and away you go. Rinse and repeat.

You won't need a cro, just watch consult on your laptop. Other than that, everything chrisso said is on the money

Hi Randy, thanks for the post. The wiring was ambiguous so I had to test both ways (both wires had a trace colour). To be honest, I couldn't tell the difference either way. I guess I'll go back and swap them over and check again. Now that both fronts are gone, RL is still much louder than RR and both lack the bass you'd expect from a 6x9 - they sound more lie 4's Chris here's those pics. Thanks for taking a look. For what it's worth, the new speakers are 45W RMS. Could I be asking too much of the headunit? I wouldn't think so, but thought it worth mentioning as it's an old car. Cheers guys

For reference, new GTR front bars are available from Mr Nissan for around $400-$500, depending on your mates rates. Might be worth a look if you're paying $300 for fibreglass

Hey thanks Chris. It is a 1993 Mazda 626. I'll take a pic this morning. Its a Phillips two single DIN setup. One has CD only other has cassette and radio. I'll come back with pics.

Guys I'd love to hear your thoughts on what may cause the problem I'm having with a stereo. It's on our Mazda, not the Nissan, but SAU is where I've always found guys willing to lend a hand. When we bought the car a year ago, RL and RR did not work. We didn't care, it is a spare car. When FR dropped out (as in, the output volume dropped to negligible, but audible) we assumed the speakers were slowly dying (its a 1993 car). I removed FR and suddenly the rears were working again!? At the same time, FL was MUCH louder the the rears combined. I thought the lack of FR may be causing an overvoltage to FL so I removed that one too. Now the RL is louder than RR? Anyway, I'm stuffed to work it out. If it matters, the fronts are splits and I only removed the bass driver from the door. I was hoping someone here could shed some light on the cause before I ask someone to come out to my place. I'd rather avoid rewiring the whole car if i can help it. Thanks guys, any assistance would be appreciated. Cheers Mark

Hi Tom, I've had clock dramas since I picked up the car. I too have read that it runs off the audio harness, however I've checked the plugs and I have 12V constant and 12V ACC at the right times, so I don't know what gives. I've also tried a second clock and no go there either. If you sort it out, I'd love to hear what you did! Mark

Good guess dude. They are actually 65mm internal diameter.

It is possible that he used a socket to unbolt the CAS.

Nick I've moved the thread to the NSW section for *hopefully* better results.

My CAS has the same sticker/tape. It had 68,000km on a wound back odo when I picked it up. I have no idea if my timing belt has been changed. doodz not everyone has a 100,000km stamp. I'd be surprised if anyone other than Nissan stamped the head during that service.

R32 GTR and GTSt = red and silver R32 GTS4 = blue and silver S15 and R33 = red and white blue and silver doesn't indicate non turbo (not for R32 anyway)

Behind my GTR, my Corolla IS the fastest hottest sports car on earth. It has 13 inch rims wrapped in Bob Jane All Rounders, slushy suspension, a 1&1/2 inch exhaust and over 35fwkw (not dyno'd but it has to be at least that much). I actually refer to the car as "The Antidote", in the context of the antidote for incurable speeding.