cowie165

So Hill Billy are you going to share what the problem was?

Hi Sig. I like s70. For s58 you'd have to prove intent however with s70 you can simply state, 'where are my RS-V04s?' and when they don't have them, take the refund without them bitching. Well that's how it is supposed to work If anyone else is interested in the legal stuff, the TPA is here: http://www.austlii.edu.au/au/legis/cth/con...act/tpa1974149/ To access the sections sig is talking about, click on the section number itself. It sure is nice to know your rights. By the way, I'll remind my brother about s60. Cheers sig. For the guys playing at home: TRADE PRACTICES ACT 1974 - SECT 60 Harassment and coercion A corporation shall not use physical force or undue harassment or coercion in connection with the supply or possible supply of goods or services to a consumer or the payment for goods or services by a consumer.

I bought new around a year ago and they feel the same as when I put them in. I just make sure I use a sunshade when I park at work - stops the vents from perishing and the dash from lifting I'd hazard a guess that aluminium would be more expensive than two or three new vents

Another satisfied customer... That sucks moreso as you drove so far only to be stuffed around As a side note: TRADE PRACTICES ACT 1974 - SECT 58 Accepting payment without intending or being able to supply as ordered A corporation shall not, in trade or commerce, accept payment or other consideration for goods or services where, at the time of the acceptance: (a) the corporation intends: (i) not to supply the goods or services; or (ii) to supply goods or services materially different from the goods or services in respect of which the payment or other consideration is accepted; or (b) there are reasonable grounds, of which the corporation is aware or ought reasonably to be aware, for believing that the corporation will not be able to supply the goods or services within the period specified by the corporation or, if no period is specified, within a reasonable time. There is also a section in the NSW Sale of Goods Act that states that if the seller provides goods that are not of the type, quality, standard, etc. specified in the agreement, then the buyer has the right to accept or reject the substitute. I can't find the reference at the moment but I remember reading it a while back. If this rubbish excuse for service is so common, how do these guys still operate?? It defies logic.

Hey Matt. I can help with some but not all. There are two different types of aircon refridgerant: R12 and R134a. R12 is now banned in Australia as it is a greenhouse no-no. The current standard is R134a and when you hear/read about guys having their aircon 'converted' it is to change the fittings from R12 to R134a. A conversion will cost anywhere from $150 to $300 depending on where you shop and a regas probably around $60 to $80. If you are sure the clutch is ok (as most dead aircon systems seem to have dead clutches) then I'm not sure where your problem is. The only other thing I can think of is the diverter flap behind the dash...? Mine suffers the same problems - regassed twice and still no cool cool air Mark

So is that a stuffed ignitor? Isn't that the interface between the ECU and the coils?

Dudes please try to keep the "which oil is good for my car?" threads to a min. I've stickied the main thread for communal reference. Cheers guys. Any dramas, send me a pm. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=22458

Link courtesy of the general maintenance FAQ: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=27387

Added to General Maintenance sticky. Thanks for the p/n black32

I tried using Repco universal boots and they were terrible (poor fit and one ended up tearing). I ended up buying genuine from Mr Nissan and would recommend it to you also. At least call for a quote?

Isn't it an old school HKS air flow controller? That is, does the same job as an SAFC but you have only ONE adjustment point - ie. everything. The dial adjusts the fuel flow based on the air flow but it is a very coarse and very dodgy way to do things as you can only set it to maximise one RPM, as opposed to newer models that allow four different settings? Happily corrected, but that's where I'm putting my money.

Headlight switch here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=115618 Your switch is stuffed as T04GTR said. There are three contacts within the switch. As you rotate the headlight dial on your dash, you change which terminals are touching the contacts, therefore changing the lights. The contacts do not move in an incremental/accumulative way - that is, if the contact for the parkers/dimmer is stuffed, you can still switch to the next one and your headlights will come on. Think of it as though each time you click the dial, the switch is telling your lighting system to switch on/off. When you click to the next one, it send the next set of orders to your lights, but doesn't repeat the first set. I know it's a weird explanation but that's where your problem lies. Azza ring Just Jap in Sydney and they'll sell you a switch for ~$50. You can try fixing yourself too if you're keen on DIY. And finally, there actually isn't a relay in the switch and therein lies the problem. The switches burn out due to excessive current melting the plastic pots within the switch. The only way around it is to rewire the switch to trigger a relay and use the relay to activate your lights. Cheers dude!

Steve I reckon I could do it a lot faster than that

Just for reference, the RRP in 1991 was AU$110,000. The last fifty (or so) cars were heavily discounted to encourage them to leave the dealership For me, that puts DIY maintenance in a new perspective.

You can ride a large capacity bike under the NSW laws. Some of the 500cc bikes have low power but nice torque. Probably best to ride a few and see what you like Adam.

Hi Matt. The S2 R33 does after one of the guys here found out the hard way when he was messing around behind the dash and locked out his car. PS Time to request a change of username Which colour dude? Must be a nice step up

When you say cluster, if you mean the 3 gauge cluster from the centre console, then yes. To make it actually work will be around $500 in OEM parts. For the same money you could fit some nicer aftermarket gauges. Up to you. If you meant the instrument cluster or instrument panel: you won't be able to make it work. The plugs are different and things like the torque split gauge are obviously superfluous. Cheers dude.

Great result. Thanks for reporting back.

Re: sprockets I was under the impression guys changed them to alter the gearing of the bike. You could replace the main sprocket with 1 less teeth and it'd accelerate faster with a commensurate top speed drop. Adam I had a ZZR250 for a learner bike. Great fun, easy to handle and a very comfortable riding position. The guys advocating wearing your gear are right on. If it's too hot for leathers it is too hot to ride.

Dude your question doesn't make sense as the sentence isn't finished. Did you mean will they FIT or will they WORK? Fit: Yes Work: No, not without a lot of work. Cheaper and better solutions out there to achieve the same goal. Cheers

Mate I can see you are furious about this however please edit your post and take the c-bomb out of it. That kind of language really gets up my nose. Cheers. I hope eBay is working with you to recover your money, it is a lot to lose.

Dude what gear do you need to remove a gearbox? I thought it was a hoist + gearbox jack job - you can do it in your garage but it is a huge pain in the butt...?

What effect does a broken engine mount cause? Is there any rush to replace?

Behind the driver's side vent are your recirc valves. Didn't the N1 GTRs have the oil cooler mounted in front of the radiator, just next to the horns?

I don't think I have seen g-sensor output on consult, but I'll go and check this morning. Are you in Sydney?