cowie165

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=68554

I am sure the BBS rims are 17s also. It is a surprise to read you felt the car was underbraked. I have reasonably good tyres on the car and the brakes outperform the tyres everytime. I'll need better shoes before I spend any money on brakes. That said, I have good pads, new discs, and braided fittings. When I first drove the car the brakes were awful but no complaints now. As far as ATTESSA goes, the V-Spec cars apparently use the same ATTESSA computer as the R33 GTR. I can't remember specifics but the R33 computer updates around ten times more frequently, or something like that. Dude I'd re-examine why you are buying a GTR. Are you *trying* to buy an investment? Or are you buying a car that is relatively cheap performance? The performance difference between standard and V-Spec models does not justify the price tag, imo. 17"s

Oh yeah, forgot to add. There is a DIY RB26 removal on SAU. If you can use a spanner but it's your first time, I think it was around 15h each way. If you're paying someone, I've read figures of $600 for R & R labour.

Great advice. You can buy a new N1 oil pump for <$500 so I'd do that rather than spend on a branded item that does the same thing. I'd also include an oil filter relocator and change every rubber hose you can find, in particular the heater hoses. If you have the money, changing turbos and dump pipes is a lot easier with the motor out, of course. When oil pressure senders die, do they read zero or does the gauge just become unreliable? I hope you can sort it out mate, it'd be good to hear your progress.

Yes you can buy the seals. They are available from Mr Nissan and cost a packet. You can also use universal window seals that do the same job without waiting and without the premium price. Personal preference. I would recommend replacing the whole seal. I'd be surprised if they would replace just a corner - the dollar saving between that and redoing the whole lot would be negligible. Dude did you really mean tint on the front windscreen? I thought that was illegal - well more importantly, asking for trouble...? Weird. Anyway, to remove it, you'd need to know what type of glue is used. Maybe call Solartint etc. and see if they can help. Unfortunately, they're more likely to just tell you to bring the car in so they can charge you for it

Werd. My brother ignored the same advice and suffered from running-into-the-back-of-someone-at-the-lights syndrome.

A disconnect battery is harmless. It is probably dead because it was weak when it came from Japan and four weeks of no charging has put a bullet in it. I'd look for one with >450CCA but that's just personal preference.

Really!? What were you doing?

Different R32s use different lights. There doesn't seem to be any consistency from what I've read. It'll be either a H1, H3 or H3C. You'll need to pull out the bulb and go from there.

Ugh, nothing worse than coming home from work at 9pm and realising you have a few hours of knuckle scraping car stuff to go. 1. I have refitted the block plug, but due to kids in bed, not yet started the motor. 2. I owe John P and the UAS boys an apology. When I removed the plug, I couldn't find the o-ring!? I was certain it went on, and the car obviously hasn't moved, but I cant find it anywhere. Sorry John, the leak appears to be totally my fault and not due to the kit. Fortunately, the Z145 o-ring/gasket/whatever fit very nicely and was thick enough to do the job by itself. 3. I'm beat. 4. I miss my 1/24 cars. They are less dirty.

Damn! It really is nearly twice as thick! Well spotted

Thanks for the kind words Geoff. It's a case of suck-it-and-see. I'm still confident there is a happy ending to this story At the moment the oil is draining in readiness for me to attack the block plug before I go to work. Richard is spot on. This kit has 90' elbows at both ends of the hose. If that wasn't the case, I would have been forced to mount the relocator higher to accommodate the hoses. Geoff do you think you could use a transmission cooler for an engine oil cooler? Are they manufactured for a specific viscosity or is a cooler a cooler? The reason I ask is that I keep seeing R33 auto trans coolers selling here for $20 and thought it might be a 'cost effective' way out...? Not that I need it on a road car, but moreso just thinking out loud. Cheers. Wish me luck.

Cool, thanks Richard! Hey that'd mean its a vacuum line and not fluid like I thought so should be able remove the rubber hoses and shorten them? Now that I've moved the solenoid, they hose is about 100mm too long and bends all over the place. Mate do you know what the thing in the silver box is? It didn't seem to need to be where it is and has a massive plug (loom) coming out the back end. I actually used your engine bay pic for reference to try and work out the best way to place it! Your setup seems a bit flasher than mine and mounts differently, but was a good starting point for me. Cheers

Good point Rob. A few years ago I was cleaning my motorcycle and absent-mindedly armorall'd the vinyl seat... I found out the hard way, but managed to keep it upright!

Remember when I said the plug that you screw onto the block didn't feel like it fit like any oil filter I've ever done? Boo UAS for your plug and the crummy o-ring. To put things into perspective, you are looking at the plug from under the car. To the right of pic is the diff and the left of pic is an engine mount. See where the anodised hose fittings meet the shiny plug? Now see right at the end of the plug is a thin line of... oil. Whilst the engine is running, the oil pressure indicates normal however there is a tiny tiny leak right here and it drips about every sixty seconds. Bugger of a thing. When I screwed in the plug, it didn't have that nice feel when you can tell the rubber gasket/o-ring is mating with the block, rather it screwed in and then I felt metal on metal. Not having done this before I hoped that was normal. Evidently, it isn't. The o-ring is too thin for this application. Well I've called it quits for the day. A close friend always says, 'it is how someone acts after a mistake that is the measure of the man'. So instead of being cheesed I've worked out a way around it. I still had the Ryco Z145A sitting on the end of my oil pan, so I have grabbed the o-ring from the old filter and my next move is to fit the Ryco o-ring onto the UAS plug. If that doesn't seem tight I'll look at fitting both o-rings together. Fingers crossed. I don't need the car until Wednesday

Here's my end result: As you can see, I had to move the solenoid to down behind the battery, and the aluminium muesli bar shaped thing (right of the oil filter) to under the strut brace. The solenoid has to rubber plugs with washers on each side of each rubber plug. I removed the washers from the side that would mate with the engine bay, once again, to ensure a snug fit. I used the original bolts and grabbed a few M6 nuts to go on the end, as I had to drill two new mounting holes. Locknuts would have been nice, but as I mentioned, Bunnings was out of metric Anyway it looks quite tidy and if you didn't know an RB26 the stuff I moved wouldn't look out of place. It was time to start. eck.

I can't remember why I took this pic, but here it is. Next step was to mark out where the backing plate was going to fit nicely. As you'll see, I had to remove the HICAS solenoid plus some other part that had 'JECS' stamped in the front of it. It was my only solution due to the short length of braided hose available. Ok here is the backing plate fitted. The bolts are M8x25mm. 25mm is just a touch too long and 20mm would be a touch too short. If you can find them, grab some M8 locking nuts. Bunnings was out so tough luck for me. I used a piece of rubber (from an old car mat) and cut it to shape to make a crude gasket to help the two metal surfaces (plate + strut tower) bind nicely. This also helped stop the bolts protruding too far into the strut tower as the clearance between the bolts and the FR spring is uber tight. I also used washers on the backing plate. If you decided to use washers like I did (not fitted in the pic), you may need to file down one side a few mm otherwise you will not achieve a flush fit when you place the filter mount onto the backing plate. When I say one side, I mean one edge, so that it is straight for a bit, rather than curved. Hrmmm. Ok, I mean file it down from 11 o'clock position to 1 o'clock position. Here is why I used the washers and rubber gasket. I almost forgot to mention - after you drill through, grab a file and clean up the burred edge, otherwise you won't achieve a tight fit.

Thanks! I have to open enough jars for my wife it just seemed logical. I'm not sure what they're called but they live in the kitchen (detergent, steel wool, etc.) section of the supermarket. It is extra handy because it is so thin it is easier (for me) that trying to fit in a proper wrench under the plenum. Yep, I can relate to that. More to follow, but not as bad as leaking litres, thankfully.

Matt if you're on MSN, pm your details and I'll send over a stack of articles.