cowie165

Dude that's way too vague for anyone to help you unfortunately. It's like asking someone what house should I buy, as there are lots of different turbos for lots of different purposes. Here's a good start though, hope it helps. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=103095

Todd even though it is a cop-out, there are only three different ways to connect the sensor, given that the signal wire can only go in three different terminals and the heater wires are irrelevant. (and as Randy said, black = signal, white = heater). If you don't receive an answer, try trial and error and use a voltmeter to test the signal output. If you're in Sydney I can help out with a Consult cable. As an outside chance, did you reset your ECU after installing? You'll need to clear the fault codes otherwise the ECU will most likely consider the sensor to be still broken and it'll revert to the run-rich ECU maps.

Actually, yeah it does do it more when cold. Very rarely it actually started (when warm) without any noise. The whining trailed off at about the same time I'd expect the starter to wind down too...! Sounds credible to me, and very good to know, cheers!

Cheers John. Turns out my sister is offloading her old corolla so I'm all set. Thanks though!

I'm pretty sure the idle adjustment screw is to set the base idle. Aren't you meant to adjust the ECU controlled idle first? It's the blue phillips head screw on the side of the ECU. and Michael there was a recent thread where R32 GTR owners all congregated to whine about our high idle (mine is 1200rpm ) Beer Baron was the only one with anything <1000

I had a weird screeching sound on startup that started suddenly one particular day. It stuck around for almost every start for almost three months and then last week it just stopped...? Weird. She still runs so I'm stuffed to work out what the strange sound was... and Dave you say you don't watch much TV but cry smeg when something goes wrong... good to see you have taste with what you do watch!

Marcus/Ronin09 is fed up with his lights like most R32 drivers. Here's what he's doing about it: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=93963

Found it. http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/...&model_id=7

Carsales.com.au and was around $24,900

Thanks for the honest reply

John what is it like on petrol? I'm in the market for a runabout but was looking at 4cyl market. Thanks mate! Mark

Have you changed the coolant recently?

When you say it becomes very hot, do you mean it keeps rising or it just runs hotter than before? The reason I ask is because if the thermostat is stuffed and no longer opening you won't have any coolant circulating and it'll bake itself. Craved dude I don't understand why you said " if that didn't open you would not see the high temps". Could you please explain a little more? As far as I know, if the thermostat stays closed to assist in warming the block and once it reaches operating temp, it opens, allowing coolant in, to prevent high temps...? Happily corrected if I have things ass about.

PM sent

I'm with mad082. I usually try: 1. WD40/RP7 and leave it for a few hours. 2. Give the bolt a good knock with a hammer from different sides. 3. Place your socket and breaker bar on, the tap the end of the breaker bar with a rubber mallet. 4. Curse and swear 5. Rattle gun (make sure you use the special sockets designed for rattle guns or you crack your regular ones)(yes I learned the hard way )

I have a useful post. Please don't blame the tools, they seem to work for everyone else. If you are upset, please find a nice happy medium between calm and off-the-dial-pissed-off. You'll just offend people and they will stop trying to help you.

Far out dude, I must live in the wrong city. 27yrs. Rating 1. GTR insured for $28K. $1500 (inc. salvage rights)(8000km/yr)

If anyone has melted a RH headlight but still has the glass, please give me a yell. Damn stone flicked up and put a hole in my headlight glass. Thanks

When I sold my 180SX the buyer paid for an RACQ inspection. i had to roll my eyes at all the garbage on the report, including "engine surges under load". I said, yeah 15psi on a stock turbo will do that. The guys father looked at me like I was an idiot and replied with "my turbo diesel ute doesn't..." Far out. :thumbsdown: to RACQ inspectors (albeit it was 2001)

Good to know!

Why would they be on the inside? I'm not saying you're wrong, I just don't understand

Damn mash, that's rough. I'm still excited by my last tank - 511km! It worked out to be 11.76L/100km (stock pretty much everything). I felt like Kramer driving around with the orange fuel light glowing...

RAA = RACV = NRMA

Firstly, I no longer believe in a 'one-man' bleeder. If guys can do it solo, then awesome, but I tried twice by myself and couldn't bleed it properly. With two people, we did it quickly and correctly. philta it's important to lock the bleed nipple whilst the brake pedal is depressed. Have your mate hold the hose to the nipple whilst you pump the pedal till the air stops coming out. Brake fluid is cheap so don't be stingy Better to pump too many times and sort your brakes first go. Once the hose shows all the air has been pumped out of that line, hold the brake pedal to the floor whilst your sidekick tightens the bleed nipple. Follow the bleed order I posted in post #67 and you'll be sorted in no time. For me, when I did it solo I needed to pump the brake pedal two or three times prior to ANY braking. After the two-man attempt, it worked first go and felt as good as after a mechanic did it last year. Hope that helps mate.

Here's plenty of info to save starting a new thread next time Should be enough to keep you busy for a while!