cowie165

I've heard of toothpaste being used but that doesn't make sense as the composition doesn't seem right. Brasso might do the trick. Works on polishing most other plastic

Rick you could PM Chris (R32_GTS4 / http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showuser=14943) and have a talk to him. Chris was saying that CBC Bearings in Penrith stock all Skyline bearings.

For what it's worth, I've read that the 4100 is better for the older motors. It was something about the detergents in the full synthetics cleaning too much of the gunk accumulated in the bores and suffering blow-by as a result. Also: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=22458

I was thinking about that crash too. Nasty.

Wolv any room to move and a suggested split price for front cover : the rest? Thanks dude. I'm guessing this could become a hassle - if it is, no problem, just say the word.

D'oh... I'm thinking about putting the bolts through from the wheelarch into the engine bay, rather than just screwing into the metal and hoping it stays put. Nearly a year later and I'm still not in the mood for that job...

Very nice dude. Did you wire the low beam to remain on when high beam is selected?

Stuart what part(s) did you want? I'm interested in just the needles! My gauges work fine but the needles are nearly white and I'm a fussy bastard

TBee I have a UAS one sitting on my bench waiting for me to work out how to attach it to the wheelarch. It looks well manufactured and the hose fittings appear sturdy, but the proof is in how well it seals and I'll have to learn that the hard way. FWIW by the way, could you use an old transmission cooler instead of buying a gucci name-brand oil cooler? I've seen plenty of guys selling auto trans coolers at $30. They do the same thing right? Just trans oil has a higher viscosity...?

skylinerocks which state are you in mate?

Here you go dude: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=113284 If you think it's dead, you can't do any worse by having a go at repair!

Which model please? They are not all the same. R34 > R33 > R32. Thanks mate.

Rick were those standard dump pipes from your R32 or R34 please?

Stock horn is actually a pair. Located in front of the radiator as Shan said - they connect to the bonnet release latch. My horn is also stuffed. It used to work, now fails for unknown reason. I'd love to hear if you sort out what is going wrong with yours.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...29&hl=light

If you take your Japanese VIN to the Nissan dealership they will just look it up for you. The FAST software has R33 data.

Nice work Gav. If only the Japanese valued their centre vents over their cupholders... or if exporters had more patience

I have no complaints about my fluoro 240V from Repco at $12ish It's like a mobile phone - once you have one, you can't live without it.

Shall do, but I've bought and tried two more units now.... grrr I wonder if you can replace the LCD... just buy a working clock I guess.

My car was dyno'd and displayed 12psi. It is a stock ECU with stock turbos and stock AFMs. I thought that was about right? Hrmmm. The highest I've seen my AFM voltage is in the vicinity of 3V - I thought they max out at 5V...? I appreciate your post Gav but I'm not sure as I've not seen how to use Consult to check the boost level. Which Consult program are you using? I've used different laptop and PDA software and haven't come across boost. Do you remember your info source please? I'm keen to learn more. Cheers!

I just took a look at the clock. I have 12.20V constant and 12.20V ignition. I have tried two clocks and I'm stumped. Next I'll pull the clock apart and see what I can see. Maybe, just maybe I have two dead clocks...?

I wonder what the Road Traffic Act says about driving lights. From memory, the $70 fine was for using fog lights - I had a mate argue his way out of a fine when he produced the owner's manual that called them driving lights.

Wow, that was fast. Thanks Joel

Dudes, my eBay compression tester arrived today Weird thing is, the instructions say to warm engine, then remove ALL spark plugs, labelling as you go. Is this right? I understand that you are only testing one cylinder at a time however don't you need all the plugs seated to ensure a true reading? It also said to remove the intake snorkel. I would like the car to inhale as much air as possible however I'm not real keen on having WOT and no air filter... Any pointers would be great please!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=84208 Here's a good place to start and see how other guys went.