cowie165

Thanks for the info. I have always thought the colour of your car looked very nice so I decided to build my Sard S15 and paint it a kandy red mica. I have a decal sheet for scale carbon fibre and was thinking about painting the roof black ala 180SX style, and then ricing it with a few stickers I have left over. Cheers!

It's the Tamiya kit. Tamiya gloss black (the can job - lacquer) followed by fine wet 'n' dry. Tamiya clear lacquer with lots of sanding in between. Then polishing compound. Then special modelling polishing cloths. I am still trying to get over how realistic the paint looks. I'll try and dig up some more pics of his work - lost of other 1/24 autos.

Here is a Porsche GT. This is a 1/24 plastic kit. No joke. h

Your own Autosalon! I love the S15 - what colour is it please?

Mate I apologise for offending you. The ability to accept constructive criticism is what differentiates the ignorant from the wise. Regardless, I am sorry I pointed out your error. I'm a mod in this section, so I genuinely want to help. You'll note that I was actually helping you out mate and providing some information for you. I learned exactly the same way. I mentioned you being a member for the last two years as that leads other members to make assumptions, such as expecting you'd know how to <Search>. Just the same as you expect a 15yr old to cross the road by themself or a 8yr old to tie their own shoelaces. If you feel I was talking crap, fair enough, we all have opinions. I'm going to try very hard to keep this polite mate, but your comment is inflammatory. Please note that had you moved past the molehill you made into a mountain, you'd see that I was clarifying which reservoir relates to which fluid, and saving you from the expensive exercise of either putting ATF in your power steering reservoir or pouring power steering fluid into your 4WD system. Now that's all out the way... The reasons a search is the preferred place to start is: 1. It doesn't waste bandwidth with a duplicate thread. 2. It doesn't waste members' time with a duplicate thread. 3. It doesn't waste your time waiting for an answer that you could have found almost immediately. If nothing else mate, point 3 should be the best reason to start with a search. If you'd like to talk more on the subject of helping you out in future, please shoot over a PM. Cheers Joe, Mark

I'll second that

You're talking apples and oranges. A half-dead battery that couldn't start a V10 Viper would have little trouble coughing up the CCAs to start a Toyota Echo, if you follow what I mean. What voltage do you have on the battery? How did you have it tested? The only reason people are pushing the battery thing is because all your symptoms are the same as a dud battery. The only other potential cause could be your immobiliser. Depending upon the model, it may be built to detect a loss of power and shut itself down (ie immobilise the car). It's a long shot though as you've already said you can hear the starter solenoid firing...

The width is irrelevant. It's the rolling circumference that you're interested in. ...and you're welcome

You said a digital backup - they don't normally have the keys, right? I thought it was only analog alarms that had the key under the bonnet?

Good points Ben. You wouldn't think something that close (and common wrt tread wear) would cause dramas with the transfer. A while back I found out I had ATF in my transfer - uneven tyres couldn't be worse than that!

ATTESSA will be all screwed up as it thinks you are slipping (due to differing rotational velocity front->rear). 4WD will not behave normally and you'll prob end up burning out the clutch in the transfer case.

If you are able to inspect the exhaust first, buy it. Check the welds very closely and see if you can hit them up for a leak-free guarantee. If you aren't buying an exhaust and was asking generally, then I always try used in the first instance. Everything else on your car is used! A strut brace doesn't exactly wear out. You can test AFMs and other electrical kit. You know what I mean? I was forced to buy a new indicator as there were none going used at the time - now they don't match as original one looks more brown than orange! Try Zac/Slidewize for used gear on YahooJP. Most items can be purchased and shipped here for less than going to a wreckers/parts store.

Dude you could try posting in the Vic section and see if anyone has a Consult cable in Melbourne? It'd save a few bucks over going to Nissan. I diagnosed a dodgy AFM that way. Other than that, I'd interested to know what the problem with the motor is! Sounds bizarre.

Compare the roof line and rear quarter windows with a real R34...

This car lives in Brisbane. Australian conversion with Australian plates.

Pretty close Stan, but there legal proofs for a contact are: 1) Intent to create legal relations 2) Agreement 3) Consideration 4) Legal capacity to contract 5) Genuine consent Termination of the contract is included in the agreement. Legal capacity means you can't contract with a minor, person in a coma, mental disability etc. Genuine consent deals with contracting under duress. Yep, that's true however as everyone has said it's a pain to prove. There are some contracts that are required to be in writing, however buying a car is not one of them. Azzurra said this is untrue... not quite as it actually depends upon the terms detailed in the contract. You don't actually need a deposit. If you both sign a contract whereby both parties agreed to sale of the car for $20,000, then that's all there is to it. As one of the other guys mentioned, if they sold the car you were looking at, they have broken the contract and are liable for the penalties contained therein (and may be forced by the court to provide a similar vehicle to carry out the sale). A deposit is more a sign of good faith - paying someone a deposit doesn't entitle you to anything - it is the contract that stipulates your entitlement. Great advice. Buyers should have a contract sorted out before they go. Don't ask the seller to write 'a receipt' as that doesn't help you in the slightest when things go wrong. That's a good start Gordo but more detail makes for a better contract. Everyone has seen LA Law or whatever and heard 'they have an airtight contract'. An airtight contract is one that doesn't allow for interpretation. For example, I could be the buyer above, and have agreed to buy [car] for [agreed price] however it should also state when final payment is due. It should also state that any deposit paid is fully refundable at any time prior to settlement. As far as 'pending satisfactory [mechanical] inspection' (awesome clause to include) goes, as you've said Gordo, it should be loose enough so that the seller does not have a say in what is 'satisfactory'. If they don't agree to it, move on. Think about real estate - if the seller and buyer cant agree on a contract, they both look elsewhere. Remember buying a $20,000 R33 will put you in debt for a lot of years and it is VERY important to purchase wisely. A good contract will protect you in the event you are being sold a lemon. It is worthwhile to include a clause detailing penalties for termination. "Should [the seller] fail to make good on the provision of [car] at the agreed time of sale, a penalty of $500 shall be paid to [the buyer] within five working days." or something like that. That is the way you protect yourself from the seller finding another buyer - it is in their best interest to sell the car to you. If they find a buyer that will pay >$500 over your price, then they break the contract, become liable for the penalty, and you have $500 to spend next weekend. I understand this is a saga of a post, but i thought I'd jot a few points down because I hate seeing young (I know you're not young Gordo ) dudes being screwed over. Mark

frank price varies a lot depending on where you go. As cliche as it is, a searcg would reveal a lot of threads about replacement O2 sensors for RB26s. It seems that the EL Falcon sensor is only good for RB25 or something like that - you most certainly can use an aftermarket one but you'd have to search to find a part number. For what it's worth mate

Same diameter wheels are on the 99-03 Liberty B4. Your guess as to the Subaru width and offset though.

me too