cowie165

Thanks for the link Ed. I missed that DIY and as you know one of my AFMs is stuffed.

Another vote for AFM. My car has the same problem and I used a consult cable to diagnose. A reasonable way to check (that helped me) was to leave the engine running, then press your finger onto the AFM plug. One of mine was fine, the other one almost caused the car to stall. After reading the post about how the plugs are simply soldered to the PCB, perhaps me pressing down was unhelpful...?

That means it's digital, right?

R32_GTR_Wiring_Diagram.pdf 2.1Mb Good res though and easier to read than the shop manual. ps Matt I'm so sorry I called you Tim mate I was post-whoring at the time and lost track of who I was talking to in what thread

Steve any ideas on how to bench test one? Does the ignition need to be connected? I assume illumination is not required - it will just remain on max brightness? Here's the scan, for what it's worth. Mark

Does it stand to reason that if you are using an oil cooler you could (should?) use a lower viscosity?

:werd:

I have the same problem however all fuses have been checked. After my car was resprayed the head unit would not work and the aircon kept resetting to 25.0'C each time I turned the car on. So what I'm saying is, if your aircon remembers the last temperature that was set, it is unlikely to be the fuse. And that's where I stopped fault finding! I have two clocks sitting on the bench - neither work - so I guess it isn't the clock itself either... For what it's worth, Mark

SSR-500, silver R32 GTR spotted at Richmond Flying Club on Saturday afternoon. Mate if you're here, those BBS rims look brilliant

Damn, sucks that the gallery is down. I'll have to grab it from FAST again. I might attach it here as well as PM to you NAman

When you say not enough power do you mean the left hand lights are dim or do you mean they do not switch on at all?

Mick that was an offer from the other chap who is keen for the driver side. Spoolup asked you both to 'make a reasonable offer' and japp_imports offered $60pr.

VT Commodore ones are commonly used there. Price is good too.

Hi Christian, At the moment I can't find how to upload additional images. When browsing "Member's Gallery" I do not seem to have an entry, however when I clicked "My Gallery" under my avatar, it seems I have 58 images but none display? Link to cowie165 Gallery here Thanks Christian, if you have any pointers or if I have missed the bleedin' obvious, please shout out. Mark

First night drive since fitting the 5W dash globes. What a change! Such a pleasure - if you happen to have a LVIS or SEVS car you prob have a dimmer switch - so this change would be a MUST. If you are like me with a 15yr car, then suck it and see. I vote for the brighter bulbs. The blue sleeves take the bright white out of them and make it bright without straining or distracting. I also test fitted the LEDs into the climate control fittings. I had to drill out the little fittings with a 1.5mm drill bit as the LED legs were a little too thick. An old mate visited work today during my lunch break so missed my soldering opportunity. for old mates for another day with my dash looking like Skeletor.

Post #4: N1 (model not mentioned) high-flowed by Tomei 1-2000km ago.

The R32 bulbs (and generally used for car instrument panels) are 12V 3W bulbs. I have just replaced mine with 12V 5W bulbs for a little extra light. Without intending to be rude, please try a search for things like 'LED' 'dash' and so on. There have been quite a few threads in the last few weeks with people (self included) replacing incandescent lights with LEDs. As far as your dash goes, I agree with R33S2 - the LEDs are unlikely to work. Apparently if you cut the top of (ie. flatten the head) they will diffuse light more like a bulb but I can't confirm until Friday. Cheers.

Wow, I must say 'hats off' to you for being such a gentleman about things! Quite unusual these days Here's to your mum or dad recovering and quickly. For what it is worth, I can relate to your position. Cheers.

As I've recently seen more and more info on the LED swap-over, here's a link to a similar thread on ns.com and I'll finish up with changing the headlight switch and a pic or two when I'm done with the LEDs.

Hi Steve, I've just bought some 3mm LEDs from Jaycar, in blue. $2.00 each. I didn't realise this thread was here and have started one in the DIY section called R32 Headlight switch and LED replacement. There are pics in there. @jetpilot: Did you find the blue silicone covers at Peps as well? I'm not sure whether I can be bothered going ahead with the LED option or just replace the little globes.

Dude being a smartarse just because you didn't read someone's question is unnecessary. As far as staying on topic goes, I'm quite happy that explaining why the master must stay >half full is on topic. Otherwise, you'd require a topic for "Where can I buy a one-man bleeder? Where is the bleed nipple?" and so on. You seem like a decent bloke but feel free to remain silent if you think someone is going off-topic. Manners make the world go 'round.

Hi Lucien. I removed all four calipers when I stripped and painted them at the start of the year. From what I learned it is the air being ingested by the brake system and it taking a LOT longer to bleed them properly. I didn't plug lines either. I suspended them and the drip of brake fluid eventually stopped. I tried taping them and plugging them but neither worked effectively. As long as you keep your foot off the brake pedal when the calipers are off it seems to be all good. I don't think that properly answers your question but I hope it is a point in the right direction. As far as changing brake fluid goes, I did note the change in colour from green Mobil DOT4 to blue Castrol DOT4 as I bled the brakes. Using a $20 one-man bleeder took two goes to make the car driveable and my brother-in-law's assistance to bleed them properly. I found it too easy to introduce air into the system doing it solo. I can explain more via PM if you're interested. Remember to bleed the ABS as well. First bleed the nipple closest to the headlights then the rear nipple. @Ghostrider: lwells asked why should you keep the fluid above half-way in the master cylinder. You answered with why you bleed brakes.

Auto-electrician We swapped the 12V 3W (aka 14V 3.4W) bulbs for some 12V 5W and refitted the blue silicone sleeves. It should be back together tomorrow night and I'll bring pics then. Autobarn - for the dash bulbs and some gear for my oil filter relocator. Useless. Tried to sell some NARVA LEDs at $5.00 each. Jaycar Hurrah. I bought a 12V 'mini-lamp' to test fit. I also bought a few 3mm blue LEDs and a bunch of 500mW resistors. (I thought resistance was measured in ohms??) The mini-lamp isn't going to fit without a LOT of massaging. The LED test fit looks great and there is enough room behind each fitting to solder the resistor in nicely. I'm looking forward to it. According to Stefan at Jaycar, the domed LED will project a beam of light. If you flatten the top it will cause the light to diffuse and act a little more like an incandescent bulb. I'll try both and report back. Jaycar LEDs are $2.00 each and around $0.30/resistor. I'll do the climate control unit first - that way I can still drive around. If it works out ok I'll retrofit LEDs to the upper dash surround. I'm hoping the blue light will nicely match the blue display on the headunit. Cheers for now. @Ronin09: pics received! Reply to follow

The fuel economy could be the O2 sensor. If at all possible, beg/borrow/steal a consult cable and see how the motor runs. The O2 sensor readout should oscillate with the lowest amplitude less than 0.4V and the highest amplitude greater than 0.55V. It should oscillate with a min frequency of 0.8Hz. If the sensor isn't doing this, according to Nissan, it is stuffed and should be replaced. Then again, if you have a bigass fuel pump, 280km/tank may be normal?