cowie165

Hi I've bought from Zac/Slidewize and he is an awesome, helpful guy. I've seen smaller, cheaper items that make a Y4,000 fee uneconomical so I started this thread. Hope it helps

Oh poo. Cheers Lucien. and for Marcus:

I drive through some windy roads each day on my way to work. When the road is damp or wet, my torque split will rise to the same reading (~10kgm). I'll offer one vote for everything is normal. And when you say you did it with ATTESSA in place, are you confusing it with HICAS? I apologise if it was just a typo, but ATTESSA is your 4WD and HICAS is the 4WS that many track guys disable. Mark

Dave why the thumbs-down for Motul? I'm not a Motul fanboy it's just that I have 5L of 10W40 sitting in my garage waiting for this weekend.

I finished polishing the speedo cluster cover and had a few more pics to post... (once again, I apologise for the low res, they are taken using 'still' mode on a Canon handycam) Thanks to Brasso, a soft cloth and an hour of TV, you can now see the reflection in the cover. Nice. To access the bulbs in the climate control, you need to pop three lugs at the top (using size 1 flathead screwdriver) and two at the bottom (using jeweller's flathead screwdriver). Viola. Hopefully you can see the four bulbs at the bottom and two at the top. Tomorrow I'll take a few close ups of the various lights. They are fairly unique looking. I'm not very confident about Jaycar anymore - may have to find some kind of light/auto elec specialist.

Thanks Marcus Mine set on the garage bench for nearly twelve months but when they wouldn't switch off last Wednesday and stopped me from starting the car on Thursday (headlight load reducing battery to 8V) I had to pull my finger out. Ok tonight I sat in the car, feeling like a crim as I only had torchlight, and I pulled out the 3-gauge cluster, the climate control/headunit and speedo cluster. 76,000 original km you say? Yes, it is indeed a rare find I think that once my 89 RB26 dies I'll buy a new speedo just so the odometer actually means something. The next pic shows the bulb placement. On the speedo cluster they are the orange/brown plugs and on the triple-gauge cluster they are the three blue plugs. According to Nissan FAST, they are 14V 3.4W bulbs. That should help when I head out to Jaycar - has to wait until Thu/Fri when I'm off work. The metal shaft with the orange circle, on the right side of the speedo cluster, is where the speedo cable attaches and I assume when the handy Japanese car salesman adjusts the odometer to reflect the 'true' condition of his automobile Finally, here is the speedo cluster cover. I tried to take a pic that highlights the light scratching from years of wiping with dirty chamois and so on. I'm going to give it a polish with some Brasso and take those scratches out. I'd really like my next post to be showing you pictures of 12V bulbs with little blue covers. Fingers crossed and we'll talk more on Friday.

Thanks for the clarification Booster. I'm off to Jaycar tomorrow and hopefully will report back with a part number.

The R32 headlight switch reportedly fails regularly and whilst I am replacing my switch I have decided to investigate replacing the lights positioned around the dash surround. Note: Once the gallery is back up, I'll change the attachments to photoposts Duration: Removing dash 1h for your first time. Replacing the switch 5mins. Difficulty: If you have completed a screwdriver workplace safety course, you'll do just fine. Tools so far: Size 2 Phillips-head screwdriver Jewellers flat-head screwdriver or fine long-nose pliers (to remove bulbs) 19mm socket + ratchet (if you want to remove the steering wheel) Small flat-head screwdriver (if you want to remove the steering wheel) Pre-lims 1. Remove the steering wheel (this is not required, but makes life a lot easier) Using a flathead screwdriver in the 4 o'clock position, pop out the horn button. You are trying to pop out the metal clip/lug you can see in the bottom centre of the pic. Disconnect the plug from the back of the horn and place the parts aside. Setup your 19mm socket on the steering column nut. Once it is loose, unscrew it a half-dozen turns but leave it on the bolt. It'll stop you bruising your forehead. Either use a steering wheel puller or pulling back from 9 & 3 then 12 & 6, pull the wheel away from the column. A little WD40 may help if you are having trouble. 2. Unbolt the bonnet release You could argue that this is not specifically required, but as above, it makes life a lot easier as you can manipulate the lower trim without risking damage. There are two screws holding the bonnet release in place. Once unbolted, jiggle it around until it comes away from the lower trim. The main job 3. Unbolt lower trim There are six screws in total. The first one is on the right side of the lower trim, around the corner from the round driver's vent. Two are above your right knee. Three are above your left knee (the third is on the clutch pedal side of the lower trim). You should now have access to the lower dash surround. 4. Unscrew dash surround There are seven screws in total. There are two screws on the left side of the lower dash surround. One on the right side of lower dash surround. There is one under the headlight switch and one under the wiper switch. The final two are in the top of the upper dash surround, in front of the tacho/speedo. 5. Unclip loom Gently slide the dash surround towards you. You should have access to the plugs behind. Unclip them all. For GT-Rs, also unclip the clock. You may now take the dash surround to your workbench. 6. Unscrew the headlight switch assembly Three screws. Be gentle, I broke the plastic they screw into last time and now have to replace the whole upper dash surround The pic below shows the headlight switch on the right and the demister/foglight switch on the left. Note that one of the LEDs has been removed - you can see two more on the demister assembly. If you prise the two sides of the switch over the matching lugs, it will come apart and you will see the contacts and plastic 'pots' (for lack of a better term) inside. Note that only one of the pots has the nice domed top like it should. Two of mine have melted and caused the parkers to stay on - even with the car switched off. The traditional fix has been to stretch the springs you find at the bottom of the pots, so all three are once again even in height and will key the contacts correctly. After messing around with this for nearly a year, bite the bullet and buy a replacement. JustJap has them for $44. Mr Nissan has them new for $195. If you're lucky and can pickup a dash surround chances are it'll still be attached. Next posts will be on testing the lights and seeing if I can find a suitable replacement from Jaycar. I'm going to pull the speedo cluster out tonight and see about replacing those lights too. Saliya has offered the following advice that may help some SAUers: Afterthoughts Now that all the LEDs are done, I can say that blue may not be the best colour. I originally chose blue to match my headunit. With hindsight, 1000mcd white LEDs may have been more sensible. Sure the blue looks funky, but the climate display is green and white LEDs would be more subtle. Each to their own. I would not recommend 3000mcd LEDs unless you are a EL dial fanboy. edit 1: changed LED to light/bulb. Cheers Booster. edit 2: added Saliya's PM on other solutions. Cheers Saliya. edit 3: reason for recurring headlight switch failure added. Cheers Cubes.

This looks like a job for the SAU NSW Tool Library

SK that is the best and clearest advice I've ever read or heard regarding upgrading brakes. Nice

Buy from Autobarn. ON-110 for early GTR. HICAS lugs at 2 & 7 o clock. ON-115 for late GTR. HICAS lugs at 12 & 6 o clock.

I think he is asking something about his car, or a car he saw?

I'm unsure about the offset but the VSpec BBS rims are a match for the 99-03 Liberty B4 rims. FWIW

Joe if you use Kennards could you please post the hire fees please mate?

Lucien I can relate to the rust particles in your eyes... I changed the front pipes a few months ago (btw wish I had read your thread first and done radiator at the same time) and took a few trips to the sink to wash the crap out of my eyes - and that was with safety glasses on too Awesome thread, very easy to read. Great work.

I'm looking forward to reading more of your posts Brian. Click here for another thread on removing RB26 with the gearbox attached When you're done it'd be great if you could post a list of tools required. Thank you mate! Mark

I agree with you regarding the c/f bonnet / NACA scoop. It was interesting to read that the car has had the extractors changed yet the stock turbos remain. Then he claims "this car has never been thrashed" but has aftermarket ECU and 4-stage boost control. I wonder if could explain even half of the fabled $140,000 spent on a DVD player, exhaust, etc.

Great idea Kel. I'd prefer that to be honest - I suggested an SAU library as I didn't realise Kennard et al stocked auto tools. Nice

@ 4door: Mate could you please edit your post and NOT quote Prank's post? We don't really need to have them all twice and you can show what you like by voting, if you haven't already And what a high standard of entries! I'm blown away.

It sounds very much like the common fuel pump problem. The very first post from 2002 should explain it all. Try here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p?showtopic=408

The garage that painted my car is on the NRMA -> does $30,000 of trade through the local Nissan dealership per month -> arranged 'mates rates' (long story). Rear quarter glass purchased in Aust.: LHS $422.60 RHS $483.86 Right hand rear quarter panel $574.92 GTR front bar (excluding vents, excluding lip) $519.00 (retail was around $760 Hope it helps - sounds like Rezz is a good man to know

Thanks guys! I'll touch base but I suspect the job is below his expertise! Kinda like asking CRD to change your oil for you Cheers

Does anyone here do car audio? I have a bit of work required please. Mark

I agree Richard. EXAMPLE A Australian average distance per car per year? Let's say 25,000km. We could assume an average consumption of 12L/100km, giving us 12L x 250. That's 3000 litres of fuel used per car per year, in this example. Given a 10c/L increase, that would mean you are paying an extra $300 per year. EXAMPLE B The 2004 Sydney median house price was $505,000 (SMH 21 Feb 05). For the sake of simplicity, we'll increase the interest rate by 0.25%. That equates to an additional $1,262 in interest fees per year. As I said, the model is fairly simple, but I think you see my point. I can't imagine any mortgagees complaining - the increased fuel costs are delaying any rate increase. If aren't paying a home loan and are complaining about the increase, then the price of living in your own house will come as a big shock!

It sounds like you have it all sorted! Nicely done. If you approached him with $4500 in cash, take it or leave it, he may well see it your way When I lived in Braddon (2000) there was a place called CT Performance or something like that. It was about the only place in Canberra and was in that suburb on your right as you take the main road from Dickson -> Belconnen. If I had a GTSt with 41,000 genuine kilometres, I can't myself selling it for 9.9k! Cheers dude... and you're welcome