cowie165

Thanks mate. I'll have my eyes checked Bummer for me in NSW.

Yahoo Japan goodness here...

Hi guys I swapped the R32 wheel for another in better condition and now that I have replaced the horn button it doesn't work? The plug connects fine. It worked by chance when I fitted the horn in at 45' off centre (rotated a bit clockwise by mistake). Could it be a problem with the earth? I'm not sure where the plug earths to or if it does so through one of the three lugs that secure the horn in place. Any info/tips would be appreciated. I feel a little naked driving around without my driver feedback device. Cheers Mark

jimbob if you're in Sydney I could help out with a hobby airbrush. I'd use an enamel, mask it very very well. If the chrome-look stuff is peeling it may be best to bite the bullet. JustJap sell R33 GTR badges (slightly different) for $95 retail.

Side note: If you're happy with a fixer-upper, some of the guys here bought a crashed GTSt with moderate front end damage for $4000 at a Sydney auction.

R32 Nismo brace in for sale section: $150 neg If both fenders were replaced and the boot damaged, the headlights will be replacements. That in itself isn't a drama, provided they still sit correctly. Even a cheap (read: nasty) respray will cost $2000. RB25DE would be hard to break. Interior is a replacement. GTS25 would be a very nice daily driver. See above re: hard to break RB25. Good result regarding electrics. Until you see receipts for work done, it's heresay. The 100km service would be a win. That speedo problem is a pain in the arse. I had a 180SX with similar issues. $300 for an interceptor box to adjust the speedo pulse, or a lot of heartache with me pulling the dash apart and recalibrating manually. As the model is old now, they are a bit rough around the edges. Good news is, the parts can be picked up cheaply from SAU if you're keen on slowly restoring with good condition spares. Provided it is surface rust, you can have that tidied if the car was to be painted. Dude if it were me, I would value the car around $5000. It is a non-turbo, converted manual, accident repaired and in need of a respray. GTR interior is nice and worth $500-$1000 depending on where you shop but that shouldn't be the decider. (Yes, all R32 seats use common rails). May I respectfully suggest seeing at least two more cars? See what $10,000 buys you. I imagine GTS25s are hard to find but perhaps check out a GTSt just for comparison. If you are happy with a fixer-upper, you could dive in at $5000. If you are after a hassle-free R32 that you can just cruise around in and enjoy, I'd keep looking. As you don't sound DIY minded, you'd have to budget for the repairs to be done yourself. Even at $5000 you're looking at $3000 for a quick respray (that'd likely be a mask and not windows out) plus the other minor things you've mentioned. I have recently had my car painted to repair damaged sills and fix up a cheap-ass Japanese respray. It took a looooooong time. Hope this helps, cheers dude.

Cheers Jerry, received loud and clear I remember reading in one of the import magazine that R34 cams are a good upgrade for R32!

G'day Adam. You request pickup only but I can't see where you've mentioned your location. Cheers

I hear what you are saying about guys not posting the item location, but... Christian has reinstated the Trader Ratings - use it as a straight shooter list to verify people that have conducted good trades/sales. No rating? You decide if you'll risk it?

I've read that R34 motors do not have an ignitor at the back of the head as they are incorporated into the coil packs?

Whilst I was diagnosing my problem a few guys suggested it may be a broken selector fork.

I hate that cringe when I pull up outside my house and all the dogs in the street go hypo

Good on you for rising above it and not being petty about the situation.

Dude you seem like a decent bloke but the SAU guidelines state: 7. No e-bay links! - Do not post likes to items being sold on e-bay. If you wish to start a thread advertising the same items on SAU, you must include all details and price in your thread. Asking people to refer to e-bay for more info is not acceptable Please stop with the eBay spam.

Wow! What was the story? Did it end up costing $500 or did the police recover it? Great result dude. I rode a ZXR750 when I lived in Medowie. Nice roads.

You're all name droppers. I haven't heard of half those guys. Why do you wake up one day married with kids and a mortgage and suddenly JJJ sucks? nb. We should also have a podcast thread.

One available in Blaxland if you are stuck for a cable.

The late news tonight reported that fuel consumption has decreased by nearly 10% over the last three months. I paid $1.49 tonight. I'm seriously thinking about buying another motorcycle. 3L/100km vs 16L/100km

The red goo is most likely anti-squeal paste. Once the wheel is off it'd take about 5 minutes per caliper to pull out the pads, squeeze the goo onto the shims, and refit the calipers. Less than an hour all up, start to finish.

NFSU! That must have been it. Cheers dude. For the seals you'll need some rubber lubricant (man that sounds dodgy). Lets call it rubber grease. How about frictionless paste? Seriously though, if the pistons are still in the caliper, you'll need compressed air to pop them out. They are bit of a pain in the butt trying to get all four out at the same time - as soon as you pop one, you lose air pressure and have to start over. I apologise if you know all this already, but don't bother with the 'one-man' bleeders. I tried twice and both times had a squishy pedal. Used a mate and sorted it first go. Remember to bleed the ABS once all the calipers are done. Assuming you have the shims, make sure you apply some anti-squeal paste. Once again, I don't mean to ask you to suck eggs, just trying to help. I'm pretty sure the R33 calipers are the same as R32 GTR - if you don't have the reco kit you could search for a thread titled "What is a caliper overhaul" and the part numbers are half-way down on the first page of the thread. Cheers

RC do you still have the slave cylinder?

No problem, hope it helps. I used an old rag to wipe off most of the residue, then used an old brush to clean out the rest from in between letters and other hard-to-reach places. Once the paint blisters, it wipes away like dried cake icing - most of it just flakes away then you go back and clean the last little bits. To clean it after stripping, I used some prepsol but most wax/grease removers will do the trick. Don't let the Repco dude talk you into buying a 4L tin. I bought a 1L and barely used 10% of it. Cheers Mark ps who's the chick in your avatar? Looks familiar but I can't place it.

Hi Marcus Mate I have the same problem. I fitted DBA4000s + RB74s + CRC Anti-Squeal paste on the shims. Worked silently for a few weeks and nowdays the damn brakes squeal on moderate braking. I'm out of ideas - it took a while before they started squealing so I assume the hub + rotor are mated correctly (it was a DIYer). Could the pads be misaligned? Could it be fluid on the pad? Come to think of it, I may have allowed the *tiniest* drip onto the top of the pad when I bled them the second time? Grrrr.

I used a pressure-pack can of paint stripper. Works a treat - much less hassle than using the paste/gel. Just so you know, the bare metal looks like poo. n.b. you can see the paint stripper top left of pic - the brand is Motorspray or something like that. Hope it helps,